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2013 Hewes RF 16 engine mounting height

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I have a 2013 16 Hewes Redfisher with the F90 Yamaha four stroke and was inquiring as to the mounting height you may be using.  This came from the dealer mounted the lowest that it can go.  I know you can check the cavitation plate to the bottom of boat to check the  height and it appears to be equal.   I am getting a tremendous amount of spray off the back of the boat from the engine and I feel that this is simply mounted too low and creating unnecessary drag.    I know the Hewes hull's are a little different than the average boat and was looking to see if anyone out there has the same boat and what hole do they have it mounted on. 

Any information you could provide would be appreciated.

 

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The transom height on the RF 16 is designed so that the motor should be mounted as far down as it will go (first hole), just like yours is.  The spray you are seeing is from water coming off the flat pads (strakes) on each side of the pocket, and swirling out of the pocket - which is normal.  If you watch the Redfisher 16 running video on the Hewes website, you can see the spray swirling from the pocket around the lower unit on the motor. I tried raising the motor by one hole and the prop lost too much grip, and blew out easily in turns, so I dropped it back down and it performed as it should.

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First of all I have not owned a RF16 so I have never played with the setup of one.  Geevian has done A LOT of playing with his as some others so they would know but...  I say if you feel it is too low and want to raise it up, give it a shot.  You have nothing to lose but a little time.  It only takes a few minutes to raise it up. 

From what I have seen most RF16 with a 90 are not running props that like to be ran at elevated heights so the lowest is more than likely the way to go but you never know until you try it!  I ran a 18 Bayfisher for many years with many different props and while most liked the lowest setting there were a few that I ran up a hole or two and the same thing applies to my current boat.  But than again I never had a 16 so take it for what it is worth.

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Mulligan makes a good point.  Trying a higher motor height doesn't cost anything besides some time and a little silicone caulk.  The lower unit on a Yamaha F90 is different from the the LU on a F115, so that could make a difference too.  Just a hunch, but the new Yamaha Talon SS4 4-blade prop is promoted as a high-grip prop that can be run at higher motor height.  I could play with this stuff full time if I didn't have that *** job, lol!

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1 hour ago, geeviam said:

I could play with this stuff full time if I didn't have that *** job, lol!

Ain't that the truth!

I turned my resume to MBG stating that with keys to their fleet and a shop full of props, jackplates, wedges, ect. I could setup their boats for customers based off their wants and needs, I have not heard back yet.:D  Has the position been filled yet Skip?!

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On March 8, 2018 at 9:48 AM, mulligan said:

Ain't that the truth!

I turned my resume to MBG stating that with keys to their fleet and a shop full of props, jackplates, wedges, ect. I could setup their boats for customers based off their wants and needs, I have not heard back yet.:D  Has the position been filled yet Skip?!

It could be a dream job .

 

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Well put Joe!  The biggest problem is that the people who are willing to spend the time and effort to "play" with their setup are the ones who are always looking for a bit more so the cycle never ends.  "I will stop after one more test prop" never seems to work.

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On March 8, 2018 at 2:57 PM, mulligan said:

Well put Joe!  The biggest problem is that the people who are willing to spend the time and effort to "play" with their setup are the ones who are always looking for a bit more so the cycle never ends.  "I will stop after one more test prop" never seems to work.

Good point .😊

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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3 hours ago, mulligan said:

Well put Joe!  The biggest problem is that the people who are willing to spend the time and effort to "play" with their setup are the ones who are always looking for a bit more so the cycle never ends.  "I will stop after one more test prop" never seems to work.

I totally agree.  But, at the risk of sounding like an old f@rt who remembers when times were simpler... it seems like boat/motor/prop setup and fine tuning has become way more complicated than it used to be.  Back in the day, you mounted your motor where the lower unit cavitation plate was level or just above the keel, and you bought a stainless prop that would reach the maximum recommended RPM @ WOT.  That was it!  You used your power trim for hole-shot and top speed.  Now, we  concern ourselves with heavier 4-stroke motors, transom pockets, setback plates, hydraulic jack plates, weight balance, porpoising, prop ventilation, chine walking, trim tabs, stern lifting props, bow lifting props, running pad, stepped hull, etc. etc.  There are some pretty cool options available to us today that we didn't have before - but we shouldn't need anything but a motor, prop, steering wheel and throttle, to run as fast as it can go and still be smooth and stable.

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Can I blame Dale?  It all started with meeting up with him to try a few props.  It has been down hill from there!  Come to think about it is you guys with RF16/115 that are the trouble makers.:D  but I sure was happy to see the big brown truck coming down the driveway yesterday with a worked prop in his hand.

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On March 8, 2018 at 8:42 PM, geeviam said:

LOL, ok Joe, as you well know, I've been a little over the top on prop trials and testing.  But If I start going to meetings, you can't be my sponsor because you haven't been in the program long enough, haha.  And besides, I have an excuse for all of it - I was just trying to get my boat to run one mph faster than Lurem's RF 16 (still trying, dang it!  LOL).

Good point 

 

 

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Well talk about bringing up old threads but most of what I am experiencing  is being discussed here. Trying to set up a 16 Redfisher. Not satisfied with the spray with the motor mounted all the way down. I am not talking about a bit of spray I’m talking about wet the back of the boat look stupid spray. So now the motor is back up one hole high. Next will be a small set back or some addition to the anti cavitation plate. Not some whale tail plastic crap but a thin metal type just to see if it will help the prop to bite in turns.  If any one has success running the motor one hole up without plowing the prop out in a turn, post up your solution. 

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31 minutes ago, HoneyB said:

Well talk about bringing up old threads but most of what I am experiencing  is being discussed here. Trying to set up a 16 Redfisher. Not satisfied with the spray with the motor mounted all the way down. I am not talking about a bit of spray I’m talking about wet the back of the boat look stupid spray. So now the motor is back up one hole high. Next will be a small set back or some addition to the anti cavitation plate. Not some whale tail plastic crap but a thin metal type just to see if it will help the prop to bite in turns.  If any one has success running the motor one hole up without plowing the prop out in a turn, post up your solution. 

HoneyB, I know you are running a F90 instead of a F115, but I think it would be good to setup your rig just like Outlaw.  He's got his RF 16 with a 115 SHO running just the way he wants it with a 4-blade Spitfire X7 17 pitch and a Bob's Machine Shop Stabilizer Plate (hydrofoil).  Your boat would need less pitch of course, but the 4-blade definitely gives you more leeway on motor mounting height.  I'm not sure which bolt hole Outlaw has his SHO mounted at, so you'd need to ask him.  Also, if the 15 pitch Spitfire X7 is not enough pitch, the 4-blade Yamaha Talon SS4 16 pitch would be my next pick.  It's getting some great reviews.

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9 hours ago, HoneyB said:

. Next will be a small set back or some addition to the anti cavitation plate. Not some whale tail plastic crap but a thin metal type just to see if it will help the prop to bite in turns.

I have never been a fan of those whale tail things but the RF16 seem to do well with them.

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HoneyB, are you sure the spray is coming from the motor and not from a skimmer transducer?  Does the spray settle down when you trim up at speed?

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7 minutes ago, mulligan said:

Not a 90 but 115ish cruising along, even with the drag chute up.

That's a great pic of Lurem's RF 16.  And, with a Spitfire X7 prop too!  He has an Atlas Microjacker with 4" setback.

Drag Chute, LOL.  😂

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Gee, yes I’m sure it is the motor. I took it to the lake for a few days. Had my son hold the wheel while I laid on the back deck. 
 Yes it’s terrible I’m not talking about a mist of spray I’m talking about throwing water on the back deck. And yes it does go away as the motor is trimmed up. Just as expected the spray goes away when trimmed out but it is trimmed out so far I loose bite in a turn. 
 Yes I was the guy moving my engine up one hole on the campsite!  Lost the spray but obviously the prop slips easily. 
 The prop is a PowerTech 4 blade 16 pitch. It was on the boat when I bought the boat. 
 I have never been a fan of bolt on cavitation plates either but honestly I’m thinking it might be an option here. 
  There must be some turbulent water coming under this little skiff because even one hole up the anti cav plate is still just on top of the water. 

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4 hours ago, mulligan said:

Not a 90 but 115ish cruising along, even with the drag chute up. 2566EF34-CC12-4233-9000-851D4C1A57F6.thumb.jpeg.68b2d33ac50b6d5f0a8df0b03a604a32.jpeg

The way mine rides at 40mph being pushed by my 90 I can only imagine it running like that with a 115. Looks awesome! 

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1 hour ago, HoneyB said:

Gee, yes I’m sure it is the motor. I took it to the lake for a few days. Had my son hold the wheel while I laid on the back deck. 
 Yes it’s terrible I’m not talking about a mist of spray I’m talking about throwing water on the back deck. And yes it does go away as the motor is trimmed up. Just as expected the spray goes away when trimmed out but it is trimmed out so far I loose bite in a turn. 
 Yes I was the guy moving my engine up one hole on the campsite!  Lost the spray but obviously the prop slips easily. 
 The prop is a PowerTech 4 blade 16 pitch. It was on the boat when I bought the boat. 
 I have never been a fan of bolt on cavitation plates either but honestly I’m thinking it might be an option here. 
  There must be some turbulent water coming under this little skiff because even one hole up the anti cav plate is still just on top of the water. 

The cheese grater plate on the live well sea chest, near the keel, can cause turbulence that can affect prop grip in turns too.  But if you don't have a jack plate, the best RF 16 setup I've seen is Ralph's boat (The Outlaw).

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