DanAdams Posted July 26 Report Share Posted July 26 Hello all, Unfortunately, the center bow hatch lid (2008 Pathfinder 22 TE XL) has suffered some stripped screw holes. The four tap screws (2 holes each hinge shown on bottom of the second photo) that thread into the meat of the hatch lid are stripped and no longer bite the screw. Assuming the original screws were #8 size, apparently the previous owner threaded #10 screws with some 5200 in there and that has obviously failed. So, I thought (for a minute) that I could run some #12’s in there but that is, at best, a temporary fix and I’m not sure the hinge plates will actually close on themselves with a two sized larger head than original. I am looking for recommendations on a more durable, "done right", repair for this. I have pondered drilling (to clean out the hole) and filling the holes with an epoxy resin and fiber mix (using a syringe) then drilling and tapping for #8's or #10's. I am no professional, so I am open to thoughts and suggestions. Thanks, Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jh141 Posted July 27 Report Share Posted July 27 If there is room, and it looks like there is, I would clean and fill the holes as you said then redrill and use machine screws of the correct size and head type for the hinge with a washer and locking nut on the inside. On the newer boats at least one of the three is nut and bolt. Stainless of course, 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bamaskeet Posted July 27 Report Share Posted July 27 I suggest that you clean the holes up and roll in your fingers some MarineTex to stuff in the holes and then redrill for the correct screws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCFD rtrd. Posted July 28 Report Share Posted July 28 I agree with jh104. Stainless thru-bolts with washers and lock nuts would solve the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waterman18 Posted July 28 Report Share Posted July 28 The Marintex suggestion is probably the easiest and would work great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FINCHASER Posted July 29 Report Share Posted July 29 Im pretty sure there is nothing you can fill those holes with that will stand up to having most of that material removed when its redrilled to install screws / machine screws... its just to thin there. Either take to a glass shop to have them redo those areas and add thickness to the inside lip to add more strength or glue some small thin PVC board or coosa board blocks to that inside lip that so the screws can work again. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanAdams Posted July 29 Author Report Share Posted July 29 On 7/26/2024 at 8:10 PM, jh141 said: If there is room, and it looks like there is, I would clean and fill the holes as you said then redrill and use machine screws of the correct size and head type for the hinge with a washer and locking nut on the inside. On the newer boats at least one of the three is nut and bolt. Stainless of course, I agree that using a thru bolt with a washer and nut would be the best solution but, unfortunately, the area with the stripped hole has no room to drill thru the material. However, like you said, the third hole there (the lone one), is a thru hole and uses a nut and washer but its not enough on its own. Thank you for the suggestion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanAdams Posted July 29 Author Report Share Posted July 29 Thank you all for the suggestions. I'm still doing research and have not yet done anything. I'll keep y'all posted on how it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishmanjj Posted July 29 Report Share Posted July 29 2 hours ago, DanAdams said: Thank you all for the suggestions. I'm still doing research and have not yet done anything. I'll keep y'all posted on how it goes. My PF2200XL is a 2009 year and it also only has the one through bolt on each side, a few years back after noticing the self tapping screws backing out….i filled the holes with JB Weld and re installed the screws while it was “ setting up” and have had no problem since and the screws are still tight. Here is a pic of mine now, showing the one screw per side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wthree3 Posted July 29 Report Share Posted July 29 I repaired one stripped hatch screw by cleaning out the hole, making it slightly larger and filling with jb weld. I lubricated the screw (silicone spray I assume, can't remember) and inserted it in the jb weld when wet. The jb weld cured with the threads preformed. Screw was removable. This was on a single screw that was a small cable attached keeping my rod locker hatch from opening too far. 1/4 deep blind hole with a #8 machine screw. Has been good for about 10 years. Practice first on a scrap to see if it works in your situation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted July 29 Report Share Posted July 29 I repaired mine years ago with a 1/8 " piece of Aluminum as a backing plate. dc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Seither Posted July 29 Report Share Posted July 29 Every hatch lid from Pathfinder in my 16 2300 has single SS machine screws washer and locknuts dead center of each hatch lip as fishermen JJ has shown, if your worried about the hatch lip the backing plate will give additional strength hope it helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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