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Yamaha rinse question


Fish5

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I'm not a Yamaha tech, but IMO, no.  To me, it seems logical that if the thermostat does not open then water does not run throughout the engine.  In order for that to happen, the motor needs to be running and needs to reach a certain temperature.  That, of course, means that water must be running through the motor--hence the need for the muffs (or have the motor submerged in a tank or other source).  

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29 minutes ago, Big Dave said:

(or have the motor submerged in a tank or other source).  

I agree.....I believe the system is designed to "flush" the system, or it would not be in place...and it most likely works.....but, like BD above, I'm a fan of the large horse watering tank and letting the engine run for 20 min or so....

dc

 

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Hate to break it to some but engineers do know what they are doing.... the water on the flush port goes in reverse from the where it comes from the  water pump.  So the flush port water gets to the tstat from the back side or flowing from inside out if you will.  Water is able to reach the other side as well thru pressure pushing it open some motors t stats have a hole in them that I suspect is to aid that as well. 

    Exclusively flushed my last 4 stroke (F150) on the flush port and ran it for 1540hrs and never noted any indication that it wasnt being flushed good enough when I pulled tstats and anodes etc.

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I agree with Finchaser, I replaced my thermostats for the first time on my F150 after 1800 hours.  There was no serious salt deposits.  All I do is hook up the flush attachment for 10 minutes after every trip.  I never uses muffs to flush.

I know the water is going thru the block because it’s warm coming out if the pee hole when I first turn on the water.

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16 hours ago, Fish5 said:

I have a f300, when you hook the water hose to the little quick connect on the side of the motor, water comes out all ports including the pee hole, is this a sufficient rinse or do you still need to put the muffs on and crank the motor, thanks 

Always read your owners manual.  The procedure could be different for your particular model.  My Yamaha 115 SHO did not get enough water through the system to run the motor with only a hose connection.  I had to place a "Y" splitter on the garden hose and use the muffs as well as the hose fitting on the motor simultaneously (two short hoses), to get a enough water flow to run the engine.

The owners manual for your F300 advises NOT to run your motor when flushing with the hose hookup adapter.  Check out pages 76 and 77 here: https://outboards.yamaha-owners-manuals.com/om/LIT-18626-12-51.pdf

For my motor, I would follow the manual's advise as a first step, and then use Big Dave's and Wanaflatsfish's advise as a second step.  And I would always add some Salt-Away to the flush water for added corrosion protection as well.  Just my 2 cents.  😊

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Same experience as Fin and Bam, My 2012 VF 200 SHO gets 15 minute flush time from the designed port every trip. I am 100 miles from the ramp I use the most so motor is cold. Have 900 hours and I have seen no signs of build up. 

That being said IT WOULD NEVER BE BAD to flush using the muffs ( or water container ) and running the motor. Just does not seem to be necessary on these four stroke Yamahas. 

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