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Switch Panel Backlight Replacement


Smoak352
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My backlight went out on my 2019 Pathfinder. I called down to Ft Pearce and apparently they have moved from the Techlite product pictured below to an LED strip that does not have the same box as the old product. The new product is through Scandvik and is part #41516. Once I get the product in I am going to do a "how-to" thread on this as removing the foil can be tricky. 

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On 12/31/2020 at 8:56 PM, FINCHASER said:

In theory yes .... are there side affects is the real Q... they can put out interference in alot of cases that make a buzz sound in speakers

Thanks for the heads up. I will be sure to test this before installing everything.

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As promised here is the "how to" on changing out the switch panel backlight.

First start by removing the 10 screws on the panel. 

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Next is to remove the aluminum nut holding the switches to the panel. You may need to loosen with needle nose pliers at first and then you may continue by hand. IMG_0813.thumb.jpeg.9b9493d59db47ffe66e5205742e713a3.jpeg

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After all of the switch nuts are removed you may need a heat gun to loosen the silicone to get the panel loose. 

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At this point the switches are no longer attached to the panel. I did have a red and yellow wire you can see on the top left that is an indicator light for the bilge. You will need to cut this for now to get the panel out. 

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There are also wires (yellow and blue) for the old fiber optic light. You will need to cut these also to get the panel loose. 

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The LED came with three wires. The yellow is for the white LED. I wanted blue, so I shortened the yellow wire to keep it out of the way. IMG_0820.thumb.jpeg.5498d976a68376862466cc53b9406458.jpeg

Now the panel is completely separated and you may remove it. 

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Clean all of the silicone off the panel and the dash. Also remove the old fiber optic box with a 9mm wrench. 

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You can remove the metal tape, but do not remove the white tape over the lettering. 

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Remove the old fiber optic wire. 

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Clean up all the old silicone. Add new silicone and put the panel back on the dash and screw the 10 screws back in. You may need a friend to hold the back of the switches straight while you put the switch nuts back on. 

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After you have got the panel back in and all the switches back on, you need to get power to the LED strip. Connect the new LED brown wire to the old blue wire and the new white wire to the old yellow wire from the fiber optic box. Turn on the Nav lights and make sure the LED rope lights up.  

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Now wrap the LED around the bundle of wires to keep the light a few inches away from the panel lettering so it is not too bright and zip tie everything secure. It actually works great and is not too bright at all. 

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  • 6 months later...

What a great tutorial, Smoaks !!

Thank you, Sir !!

ModMarc

Please let us know if the light is marine grade, doesn’t cause interference and works out well.  I will take your process, clean it up and move it to the permanent thread.. 

I hope all you folks understand the problem getting quality hardware for boat building these past years. Outsourcing by the suppliers turns great hardware and systems to junk. Supply chains have all been interrupted, motors are scarce.. Glad I don’t build boats right now.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 8/9/2021 at 8:19 PM, Moderator said:

What a great tutorial, Smoaks !!

Thank you, Sir !!

ModMarc

Please let us know if the light is marine grade, doesn’t cause interference and works out well.  I will take your process, clean it up and move it to the permanent thread.. 

I hope all you folks understand the problem getting quality hardware for boat building these past years. Outsourcing by the suppliers turns great hardware and systems to junk. Supply chains have all been interrupted, motors are scarce.. Glad I don’t build boats right now.

Thank you. It has been six months and I have not experienced any interference (even with an amplifier). Everything is working great!

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  • Moderator changed the title to Switch Panel Backlight Replacement
  • Moderator pinned this topic
  • 2 weeks later...

Just to add a little something:  I didn't like how several of the factory accessories on my boat were labeled Accessory so I had the manufacturer of the panel make me a new strip with the proper labeling.  In the process of installing the new strip I cut the old light wire being replaced here so I had to replace it too.  I think it may be easier to do what I did which is just unplug the large quick connectors inside the console and the whole panel comes out as one piece and you don't have to take all the switches loose.  

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