HoneyB Posted September 10, 2020 Report Share Posted September 10, 2020 So “they” say you can idle your SHO on the hose connection. There is plenty of water going down the tower to lubricate the water pump impeller at idle. My mechanic says that is the only way to open the thermostats when flushing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jh141 Posted September 11, 2020 Report Share Posted September 11, 2020 2 hours ago, jramm said: Just rechecked oil level (still cold) after tilting motor up then back to level for a few minutes (see pic). My dipstick doesn’t have hatching just two holes which I assume to be low and high but not sure. On recheck it’s a little above the top hole but not as drastic as when I checked yesterday (did not tilt and level that time). Thats Good. Yes the holes are low and high. Mine lives just slightly under the top hole. You should be getting close to your 20 hr. service. I would not go past it. 20 hour oil change is pretty important. After that every 100 hours. I stayed with the full synthetic. 800 hrs. all good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jh141 Posted September 11, 2020 Report Share Posted September 11, 2020 3 hours ago, HoneyB said: So “they” say you can idle your SHO on the hose connection. There is plenty of water going down the tower to lubricate the water pump impeller at idle. My mechanic says that is the only way to open the thermostats when flushing. I have never done that. When mine was brand new my dealer did something like that ( never got a straight answer ) and damaged the water pump. I bought the low pickup flusher and use that. For a long time I would connect hoses to both when I idled the motor to flush it. Overkill..... Now days I use the integrated flush port and do not run the motor when I first get back. Later I connect the low pickup flusher and run the motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jramm Posted September 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2020 35 minutes ago, jh141 said: Thats Good. Yes the holes are low and high. Mine lives just slightly under the top hole. You should be getting close to your 20 hr. service. I would not go past it. 20 hour oil change is pretty important. After that every 100 hours. I stayed with the full synthetic. 800 hrs. all good. Planning to take it next week for the 20 hr and a few other things ... including a prop swap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jramm Posted September 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2020 20 hr checkup and prop swap scheduled for next week but since I was only about 18 hrs in and oil didn’t seem over ... decided to try and run a bit more. Was able to run a little more consistently between 5200-5400 RPMs (2 people, 20 gallons, limited equipment) ... touched 5500 for a moment. Speed was 48-50 on GPS. Definitely excited to see what the prop change will do. Tried to leave jp down while running hard, but did experiment with slight raise (between 1-2) when running between 3000-4000 RPMs and triggered the overheat alarm again. This time I took a closer look at command link and noticed the temp gauge seemed normal despite the alarm. 🤔 Curious to know if the shop can pull records for those alarms and the stats (rpms, etc) at service? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoneyB Posted September 13, 2020 Report Share Posted September 13, 2020 You probably won’t see a lot of speed gains by jacking the motor up (ask me how I know). Leave it down and trim it out this will lift the hull on plane. Less hull in the water more speed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jramm Posted September 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2020 I read that, just trying to figure out what I can do with JP. Seems like I shouldnt have that issue running with JP in mid range. Contemplating dropping the motor down one setting, but seems like I shouldn’t have to do that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoneyB Posted September 13, 2020 Report Share Posted September 13, 2020 i do not know if that’s why your overheating but you need to talk to your dealer and get there opinion. Personally I think you need to set it down. I think that’s why your overheat alarm is coming on but your dealer may say he’s rigged 100 boats like that. What does one inch down matter when you have the ability to raise it 6 inches with the jackplate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bernieNC Posted September 13, 2020 Report Share Posted September 13, 2020 The dealer? Where does MBG mount them????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad Beach Hewes Posted September 13, 2020 Report Share Posted September 13, 2020 I have seen this same overheat alarm go off on mine when running full speed with the jack plate up above 2”. My understanding is that the tunnel hull creates an air pocket so water is not getting to the low water pick up which triggers the alarm. I only raise mine up when trying to get on plane in shallow water. Once up on plane lower it back down to at least one inch. When you are running on plane shouldn’t need the jack plate raised that high. Alarm has never gone off since. I have the 250 SHO with 4 blade and only run top end at 50 to 52. But it will throw you out of the boat If not holding on with trim tabs down at take off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoneyB Posted September 13, 2020 Report Share Posted September 13, 2020 1 hour ago, bernieNC said: The dealer? Where does MBG mount them????? Good point ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jh141 Posted September 13, 2020 Report Share Posted September 13, 2020 In my experience, On a 2200 with the pocket in the rear (hydra step ?) and 10" set back jack plate, A 20" motor should be mounted all the way down. I have tested this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brune90 Posted September 16, 2020 Report Share Posted September 16, 2020 I went back through the thread and didnt see a mention of Water Pressure. Are you using a water pressure gauge? If so what is it reading at "overheat"? If not, why not? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bcart Posted September 16, 2020 Report Share Posted September 16, 2020 On 9/10/2020 at 5:11 PM, HoneyB said: So “they” say you can idle your SHO on the hose connection. There is plenty of water going down the tower to lubricate the water pump impeller at idle. My mechanic says that is the only way to open the thermostats when flushing. You can... There's a dealer that probably sells more yamaha's than anyone in Florida and they run every one that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoneyB Posted September 17, 2020 Report Share Posted September 17, 2020 3 hours ago, Bcart said: You can... There's a dealer that probably sells more yamaha's than anyone in Florida and they run every one that way. As do I .. now . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jramm Posted September 17, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2020 3 hours ago, brune90 said: I went back through the thread and didnt see a mention of Water Pressure. Are you using a water pressure gauge? If so what is it reading at "overheat"? If not, why not? I was unsure if I had it or not because I was still trying to figure out how to config my Yamaha gauges, but found it today and changed one of the views to include water pressure (replaced water temp on the display). I ran wide open a bit today with jack down and started to adjust to see how pressure changed. JP down it was basically dead center, and adjusting up about an inch or so it would drop down a notch. I didn’t push it to the point of triggering alarm today. I also took a look at the alarms history on the gauge and noticed it was completely blank which puzzled me a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bamaskeet Posted September 17, 2020 Report Share Posted September 17, 2020 If you are going to run skinny a lot, invest in a separate water pump pressure gauge, so you will know exactly what’s happening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fin-addict Posted September 17, 2020 Report Share Posted September 17, 2020 On 9/6/2020 at 7:35 AM, Bamaskeet said: 200 hp SHO’s are difficult to prop because the motor runs like a 250 hp until you get above 4400 rpm, then the ECM shuts it down to 200 hp. Interesting. Then why get a 250 at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smilemaker Posted September 17, 2020 Report Share Posted September 17, 2020 so that you get 250 hp above 4400 rpm i would assume we are saying that the power curves look similiar below 4400 rpm but from there the 200 is a race horse fading down the stretch and can't get the job done. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoneyB Posted September 17, 2020 Report Share Posted September 17, 2020 I wouldn’t say the 200 can’t get the job done. Propped correctly you will run high 40’s to 50mph on a 22 foot boat with t top. That is better than many production boats that top out at 42mph. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoneyB Posted September 17, 2020 Report Share Posted September 17, 2020 8 hours ago, fin-addict said: Interesting. Then why get a 250 at all. In the words of the great Ricky Bobby, “ I wanna go fast!” 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jramm Posted September 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2020 Everything checked out ok at 20 hr service. Didn’t change anything on the setup other than prop for now. Still running a Yamaha for now but dropped down to a 19. Today I ran about 5700-5800 RPMs WOT at about 46-47 MPH on GPS, no gear, 40 gallons of fuel, two passengers. Need to do a bit more testing but seems a little more work to do. Played with JP height a bit, keeping an eye on pressure, not there yet. Considering an impeller mod that I heard about which is supposed to help with pressure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoneyB Posted September 30, 2020 Report Share Posted September 30, 2020 I have a question but do not want to sound like a know it all or smart arse. Why in the world would u modify a water pump on a brand new motor rather than just setting it down on the jackplate? Just curious if the dealer recommended against lowering the motor, and if so why? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nhinshoreangler Posted September 30, 2020 Report Share Posted September 30, 2020 That top speed seems low to me. I would think that motor should give similar performance to the 200 VMAX HPDI that many were rigged with over the years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Headhunter Posted September 30, 2020 Report Share Posted September 30, 2020 I have the same exact setup less the top. I can check mine when I get home but I run a rev 4. 6100rpm 53mph Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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