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Broken bunk mounts Ameratrail


Tall Tails

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Yesterday at the ramp I found the forward bracket on the far right rear bunk of my trailer for my 2500 Hybrid had broken. Failed would be a better description. It broke in half. The weld did not fail, the I beam support broke. I've no idea how or why this happened. 

What I do know is that on pretty much any other trailer I could have gone to my local trailer shop, bought a few parts and repaired this for probably less than $50 bucks. Because this is an all welded trailer it is now going to cost me 3 times that in labor and materials from a welder who has the capability to do this kind of repair. The local trailer shops can't do it. The best place in SW FL to get towers and T-tops made (Action Welding in Cape Coral) can't do it. They referred me to the only guy they knew that had the proper equipment to weld something this heavy duty. 

I promise this will be the last Ameratrail trailer that I buy. Bolted together parts that I can replace myself are what I want from now on. 

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"I promise this will be the last Ameratrail trailer that I buy. Bolted together parts that I can replace myself are what I want from now on"

I know you just sent some of the MBGforum folks to the liquor cabinet knocking AmeriTrail, however you are exactly right. On my 13 year old trailer under my SeaCraft I've replaced many u-bolts, cross members, bunks, etc. easy job. The hard part is getting over the price of Stainless hardware :)

Suggestion...replace with 2" x 2" square tubing, you will not have that issue of broken aluminum channel

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X2 on contacting Ameratrail, this trailer is fairly new if it’s under a 2500 correct? I’m not an engineer but I am a welder with a couple years of experience. The gap in the support with the bunk unloaded suggests there was considerable tension on the support when it was assembled maybe causing an eventual crack and ultimately a complete break. Aluminum moves around when welded and cools but that seems to be a large gap for such a short part. Worth a shot to call I’d think. Maybe someone with more expertise like Outlaw can back me up on this theory of mine but it definitely seems odd for such a thick, relatively short piece of aluminum to spring apart like that. 
 

As far as “too heavy duty” of a repair. Any shop with a 250A TIG machine or a spool gun could do it, the question is with the marine industry booming do they want to take the time, maybe some liability issues as well but it’s not that big of a deal to repair that. Most of the time would be removing the boat, bunks, etc...

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37 minutes ago, THE OUTLAW said:

Sorry to hear that .

Welded bunks .
 

I am not even going to get started on its either AMERITRAIL or its garbage .

🇺🇸🏴‍☠️

 

 

They’re definitely not all they’re cracked up to be, especially considering the cost. I was looking at a lift kept 2500 and Ameratrail quoted me $7200, stainless brakes were an upgrade from that! They’re pretty and all but dang. I buy used boats and happened to end up with two Ameratrails so far. The keel roller brackets on the HPX trailer rotted out because they used cad plated steel bar stock for the roller axle instead of stainless, they saved $10 there. The 2500 has never sat straight on the trailer so I put it on stands and started measuring. The bunk supports on the right side are anywhere from 1/4”-1 1/4” higher than the left side. There’s definitely something to be said for an old Continental, or something similar, that can be totally rebuilt with parts from NAPA and a hardware store. 

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I would also check your Torsion Axles to make sure they are all four operating. That looks like excessive flex and or vibration. I too would call AmeriaTrail. My trailer is 8 years old and I have never had any problems like that. You could remove the broken bracket by cutting the welds and replace it with a bolt on part. A trailer shop should be able to do that if you wanted to go that direction.

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12 hours ago, jh141 said:

I would also check your Torsion Axles to make sure they are all four operating. That looks like excessive flex and or vibration. I too would call AmeriaTrail. My trailer is 8 years old and I have never had any problems like that. You could remove the broken bracket by cutting the welds and replace it with a bolt on part. A trailer shop should be able to do that if you wanted to go that direction.

Exactly what I would do! Would take minimal effort and way less money.

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1 hour ago, smilemaker said:

on a side note with welded supports why are they not more perpendicular to the loads being placed on them

I  see way to many extreme angles on trailers. this is a good example of a support that could have been more in line with the load 

You Sir are making way too much sense!!!! :)  Even my old clunker trailer all the supports are vertical and square to the load!

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19 hours ago, Bamaskeet said:

Why don’t you call Ameratrail and ask them if they can repair your trailer?

Its a 4 hour drive to their factory. I've been there. They had to remount axles shortly after I bought the rig new in 2017. It was eating tires. They went over the top to make sure I was happy when I left there. Their customer service was amazing. Period. That said, it really frosts me when something like this breaks. No way, no how should this ever be an issue. There has to be a reason this failed. The one on the left was also cracking so the welder fixed that one today as well.  Anything that I can work on myself I do. That way I know where to place blame if something doesn't go as planned. The inability to do basic repairs because of the welded nature of these trailers is a big turn off. 

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3 hours ago, bernieNC said:

Have to ask. Power loading?

Absolutely. Have you ever attempted to winch one of these 2500s onto a trailer? I guarantee you won't do it more than once. But...the back of the boat does not touch the trailer while loading. Had this happened to a front bunk I could accept that its from power loading. 

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2 hours ago, smilemaker said:

i would do a little  of both.

remove the part on the bunk

place a bolt on on the opposite side of the cross member

at the end of the season take it to ameratrail and they should fix it right.

easy fix for them and good customer support would be no charge.

Dude, its not worth a 3.5 hr one way drive. 

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20 hours ago, Redrum said:

 

Hard to believe

 

Whats hard to believe about it? That one broke. The one on the left showed signs of cracking at the exact same spot. Welder beefed it all up. The angles of those pieces lead to their failure. Weld them in a 90 degree angle instead of that wide spread angle and the force placed on those struts isn't nearly as bad.

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18 hours ago, jason p said:

X2 on contacting Ameratrail, this trailer is fairly new if it’s under a 2500 correct? I’m not an engineer but I am a welder with a couple years of experience. The gap in the support with the bunk unloaded suggests there was considerable tension on the support when it was assembled maybe causing an eventual crack and ultimately a complete break. Aluminum moves around when welded and cools but that seems to be a large gap for such a short part. Worth a shot to call I’d think. Maybe someone with more expertise like Outlaw can back me up on this theory of mine but it definitely seems odd for such a thick, relatively short piece of aluminum to spring apart like that. 
 

As far as “too heavy duty” of a repair. Any shop with a 250A TIG machine or a spool gun could do it, the question is with the marine industry booming do they want to take the time, maybe some liability issues as well but it’s not that big of a deal to repair that. Most of the time would be removing the boat, bunks, etc...

Action welding said it would take a 300A TIG welder and theirs couldn't do it. They have a new one on order but it hasn't arrived as yet. They referred me to Tip Top Welding (also in Cape Coral). He welded in a solid repair at a decent price. It's really not a good use of my time to take this trailer to Ameratrail for service. It's over 3 hrs one way. 

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Tension on the support has nothing to do with the failure, the bunk is only thing that can pull up on it. The bunk conforms to the curve of the boat, once the failure happened the bunk straightened out lifting the failed support, but that small load had nothing to do with the failure. My guess is the cross beam that the support is attached to is flexing and bending the I beam support (or is it a C channel? Cannot tell from the picture) or the weight of the boat bouncing is flexing the support. So boxing it is the best solution, closing the section will help with both fore aft loads and side to side loads.

Does the crack go close to the weld of the support to the cross beam at the point closest to the main trailer beam? That would be a likely spot for the initiation of the crack.

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