Mike45q Posted August 10, 2020 Report Share Posted August 10, 2020 When I re-powered and replaced my trolling motor, the installer “undid“ my original wiring of one battery in the rear with backup from one of the trolling motor in the console. And He installed another battery in the rear. So I at least want to go back to the original wiring if not move everything to the console. For those of you who have moved all the batteries to the console is it worth the expense. Did you move the battery switch also to the console? What size battery cable did you use? How did you wire the Bilge pump? The float switch now comes directly from the battery and bypasses the battery switch! A sketch of what you did would be great. Thanks In Advance Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bever Posted August 10, 2020 Report Share Posted August 10, 2020 Mike45q, I’m about to rewire my old Hewes LT20. It currently has 2 trolling batteries And the onboard charger in the center console and a cranking battery in the rear rigging hatch. I’m considering moving the starting battery to the center as well when I rewire the whole boat. I’ve never done this and not claiming to be educated on this. I found a video series on YouTube by Jeff Cote who is an electrical engineer and owns a company called pacific yacht marine svc or something like that. watch his videos. He has several Videos in several series. I chose the series of 6. It is geared toward people who have yachts and battery banks and solar etc... but he covers all the wire selection, connection and battery theory that applies to what we are doing. It’s worth your time. Also, I attached a couple diagrams I have found on the “blue sea” site And there is good stuff on the New Marine Wire site as well. I can’t imaging you can follow my scribbled plan but I put it out there in case something is helpful. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike45q Posted August 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2020 Bever, Good Stuff and Great information . I downloaded the "Wiring Guide" from New Wire Marine. The Jeff Cote videos may be a little too much info but still great stuff just a lot to go thru. Your sketch reminds me of my sketches but it is also very good. I think I have all of my questions answered including some that I didn't ask. Now I just need to execute. I just need a smaller younger person to fit inside the console and work in the bilge. My float switch on my Sahara bilge pump is also bad and it is almost impossible to access. Thanks, this why i love this forum. Good Luck on your project and thanks again. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triplec Posted August 11, 2020 Report Share Posted August 11, 2020 Maverick and not a Pathy but I moved all my batteries to console and the battery switch. I re-ran a hot lead back off the hot side of the switch on a fused leg back to the bilge. I like it much better set up the way I have it and the balance is better overall. I run group 31 AGMS so that moved like 65 pounds forward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted August 11, 2020 Report Share Posted August 11, 2020 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted August 11, 2020 Report Share Posted August 11, 2020 Here are some good videos... and info on wiring.... There is also a good book called the 12 V guide to wiring or something like that.... dc 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike45q Posted August 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2020 “Finally think I have a good handle on how and what I need to do to relocate the batteries from the stern to the console. Only issue now is to source the parts I need and confirm that a 2 AWG battery cable will e large enough. Can you confirm sizing or tell me why I should go bigger. Trying to balance size versus getting cables thru rigging tube. Thanks in Advance for all the help. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geeviam Posted August 22, 2020 Report Share Posted August 22, 2020 5 minutes ago, Mike45q said: “Finally think I have a good handle on how and what I need to do to relocate the batteries from the stern to the console. Only issue now is to source the parts I need and confirm that a 2 AWG battery cable will e large enough. Can you confirm sizing or tell me why I should go bigger. Trying to balance size versus getting cables thru rigging tube. Thanks in Advance for all the help. Mike Found this and it has helped me: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike45q Posted August 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2020 1 hour ago, geeviam said: Found this and it has helped me: Question is " how many amps does the Yamaha 200 Sho req ' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geeviam Posted August 23, 2020 Report Share Posted August 23, 2020 4 hours ago, Mike45q said: Question is " how many amps does the Yamaha 200 Sho req ' 150-200 amps is probably the correct range, but this page has the information you need: http://www.marineengine.com/parts/arco-marine-parts/page64.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bever Posted September 7, 2020 Report Share Posted September 7, 2020 I ended keeping my switch in the rear rigging hatch because it’s easy to reach when the boat is in the trailer without having to climb in and I moved the starting battery into the console with the trolling batteries. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jh141 Posted September 7, 2020 Report Share Posted September 7, 2020 Looks Good......Very Tidy!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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