AntonRx Posted July 29, 2020 Report Share Posted July 29, 2020 It finally came!! After being on a waiting list x 8 weeks, my 24V 60" Rhodan was delivered. This thing is sweet! Anyway, I will be mounting myself, so, prepare for some nice pics on here these next few weeks. Whats crazy, is they sent me a motor head stabilizer for free??!! Not sure if this always happens for the longer length motors or what but either way, I got that now as well. Look forward to installing and being able to fish the banks by myself finally. More to come... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jh141 Posted July 29, 2020 Report Share Posted July 29, 2020 Got mine Today, Nine weeks but worth waiting for. Easy install, replaced my MG Xi5. The stabilizer comes standard with Rhodan. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AntonRx Posted July 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2020 Nice! Didn’t know about the stabilizer. Looks good. I’ll be installing for first time on my boat. It’s snug but fits perfectly. Just not sure about getting all 4 bolts on the puck to be inside the locker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shallowminded6 Posted July 29, 2020 Report Share Posted July 29, 2020 3 minutes ago, AntonRx said: Nice! Didn’t know about the stabilizer. Looks good. I’ll be installing for first time on my boat. It’s snug but fits perfectly. Just not sure about getting all 4 bolts on the puck to be inside the locker. Is the stabilizer the part that is sticking out over the bow? What are you installing it on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Limitless Posted July 29, 2020 Report Share Posted July 29, 2020 Just a heads up on the Ram Mount stabilizer: don't turn the knob to loosen all the way! As you'll see it's spring loaded and will fly apart if loosened too much. Replacements cost about $35 for the parts you'll lose over board. I'm still trying to figure out a way too jury rig mine so it can't come apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AntonRx Posted July 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2020 44 minutes ago, Limitless said: Just a heads up on the Ram Mount stabilizer: don't turn the knob to loosen all the way! As you'll see it's spring loaded and will fly apart if loosened too much. Replacements cost about $35 for the parts you'll lose over board. I'm still trying to figure out a way too jury rig mine so it can't come apart. Good call. Will watch this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AntonRx Posted July 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2020 2 hours ago, Shallowminded6 said: Is the stabilizer the part that is sticking out over the bow? What are you installing it on? No. The stabilizer would be mounted up on the gunnel to strap down the head; preventing it from slapping the hull in rough conditions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jh141 Posted July 29, 2020 Report Share Posted July 29, 2020 4 hours ago, AntonRx said: Nice! Didn’t know about the stabilizer. Looks good. I’ll be installing for first time on my boat. It’s snug but fits perfectly. Just not sure about getting all 4 bolts on the puck to be inside the locker. You only need an inch between the shaft and rub rail. Mine is at 2" inches and I have all four through bolted with access from the anchor locker. I considered backing mine up 1" inch but decided it was not worth four more holes. The MG Xi5 and the Rhodan are right at an inch different as to where the puck needs to be to get the one inch rub rail clearance. Not sure how different the 07 2000v is from the 2012 2200. I did not use the ram mount stabilizer on my Xi5 and do not plan to use it on the Rhodan. The Rhodan looks to be a much sturdier piece. Will see how it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW Skif Posted July 29, 2020 Report Share Posted July 29, 2020 6 hours ago, jh141 said: You only need an inch between the shaft and rub rail. Mine is at 2" inches and I have all four through bolted with access from the anchor locker. I considered backing mine up 1" inch but decided it was not worth four more holes. The MG Xi5 and the Rhodan are right at an inch different as to where the puck needs to be to get the one inch rub rail clearance. Not sure how different the 07 2000v is from the 2012 2200. I did not use the ram mount stabilizer on my Xi5 and do not plan to use it on the Rhodan. The Rhodan looks to be a much sturdier piece. Will see how it goes. Not using the Ram mount on mine either... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AntonRx Posted July 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2020 Ok. Looks like I’ll wait in the ram mount. so here’s a shot of my anchor locker. You can see where the top is boded to the bottom on the sides. Is it ok to drill into that for the through holes? (Pic is upside down). From reading older pamphlets on the 07 2000V, pathfinder states to drill and tap the holes for screws when mounting a trolling motor. I’d love to do the through bolts but how when it’s basically right on the edge where all that bonding stuff is? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AntonRx Posted July 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2020 here’s another view. (Upside down again) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AntonRx Posted July 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2020 7 hours ago, jh141 said: You only need an inch between the shaft and rub rail. Mine is at 2" inches and I have all four through bolted with access from the anchor locker. I considered backing mine up 1" inch but decided it was not worth four more holes. The MG Xi5 and the Rhodan are right at an inch different as to where the puck needs to be to get the one inch rub rail clearance. Not sure how different the 07 2000v is from the 2012 2200. I did not use the ram mount stabilizer on my Xi5 and do not plan to use it on the Rhodan. The Rhodan looks to be a much sturdier piece. Will see how it goes. You think you could send a photo of inside your locker like I did? I'd like to see how you handled the sides where the bonding "stuff" is... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jh141 Posted July 30, 2020 Report Share Posted July 30, 2020 I will get a couple photos tomorrow. There is some difference between out boats. Hopefully the puck will be far enough back to miss the bonding material. If not you can move the mount back on the Trolling motor itself but I do not think it will be necessary. Stay tuned for photos tomorrow eve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert3 Posted July 30, 2020 Report Share Posted July 30, 2020 I installed the RAM mount on my boat, i did it after an accidental deployment at speed, after hitting a big Wave. It keeps everything steady and fixed. I am not diligent enough to lower the depth collar every time I stow it 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geeviam Posted July 30, 2020 Report Share Posted July 30, 2020 14 minutes ago, Robert3 said: I installed the RAM mount on my boat, i did it after an accidental deployment at speed, after hitting a big Wave. It keeps everything steady and fixed. I am not diligent enough to lower the depth collar every time I stow it I installed a RAM TM support on my boat, and like it as well - solid and steady. However, I didn't want the the ball permanently attached to the deck (possible stubbed toes), when I take the TM off the boat from time to time. So I installed a threaded plate (same as Hewes uses for the bench seat back rest supports) on the casting deck and purchased a RAM Tough Ball (part# RAP-379U-371637) that can be easily removed from the threaded plate to keep the deck snag-free. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AntonRx Posted July 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2020 1 hour ago, geeviam said: I installed a RAM TM support on my boat, and like it as well - solid and steady. However, I didn't want the the ball permanently attached to the deck (possible stubbed toes), when I take the TM off the boat from time to time. So I installed a threaded plate (same as Hewes uses for the bench seat back rest supports) on the casting deck and purchased a RAM Tough Ball (part# RAP-379U-371637) that can be easily removed from the threaded plate to keep the deck snag-free. This is really nice! I may have to do the same. Good job man! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jh141 Posted July 30, 2020 Report Share Posted July 30, 2020 17 hours ago, AntonRx said: You think you could send a photo of inside your locker like I did? I'd like to see how you handled the sides where the bonding "stuff" is... Here are the photos. Remember my puck is set at two inches rub rail clearance, so it could be moved back one inch. Looks like they did not use bonding material on my sled. I see no reason why you could not remove some of that material if it was in the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AntonRx Posted July 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2020 20 minutes ago, jh141 said: Here are the photos. Remember my puck is set at two inches rub rail clearance, so it could be moved back one inch. Looks like they did not use bonding material on my sled. I see no reason why you could not remove some of that material if it was in the way. Awesome. Thanks for that. Looks like your front cleat is further back as well. I wouldn’t be able to attach in the middle like that unless I got rid of the cleat. I wouldn’t mind doing away with the cleat but there are 2 aluminum plates that are glasses in towards the sides, ment for mounting the trolling motor anyway. If I went in the middle, I wouldn’t be hitting the plate for like 2 bolts. Looks like I’ll either have to trim away the bonding stuff or just drill/tap the outer 2 screws. More to come... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shallowminded6 Posted July 30, 2020 Report Share Posted July 30, 2020 1 hour ago, jh141 said: Here are the photos. Remember my puck is set at two inches rub rail clearance, so it could be moved back one inch. Looks like they did not use bonding material on my sled. I see no reason why you could not remove some of that material if it was in the way. Im a novice in this area. Is that into the aluminum plate or just thru the deck? Curious if you can see the aluminum plate or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AntonRx Posted July 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2020 52 minutes ago, Shallowminded6 said: 1 hour ago, jh141 said: Here are the photos. Remember my puck is set at two inches rub rail clearance, so it could be moved back one inch. Looks like they did not use bonding material on my sled. I see no reason why you could not remove some of that material if it was in the way. Im a novice in this area. Is that into the aluminum plate or just thru the deck? Curious if you can see the aluminum plate or not. No. At least on my model, the aluminum plates were glassed in, meaning, they're sandwiched in between the fiberglass, up in the deck... the plate you're seeing in the photo above is the backing plate for the through hook (or whatever you call it) that gets attached to the trailer... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jh141 Posted July 30, 2020 Report Share Posted July 30, 2020 4 hours ago, Shallowminded6 said: 5 hours ago, jh141 said: Here are the photos. Remember my puck is set at two inches rub rail clearance, so it could be moved back one inch. Looks like they did not use bonding material on my sled. I see no reason why you could not remove some of that material if it was in the way. Im a novice in this area. Is that into the aluminum plate or just thru the deck? Curious if you can see the aluminum plate or not. Mine does not have aluminum, Instead they used a composite board of some kind I believe. All four through bolts are through that reinforcement. Notice they all are the same length of bolt below the nut. I think AntonRx has aluminum plate glassed in his. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jh141 Posted July 30, 2020 Report Share Posted July 30, 2020 5 hours ago, AntonRx said: Awesome. Thanks for that. Looks like your front cleat is further back as well. I wouldn’t be able to attach in the middle like that unless I got rid of the cleat. I wouldn’t mind doing away with the cleat but there are 2 aluminum plates that are glasses in towards the sides, ment for mounting the trolling motor anyway. If I went in the middle, I wouldn’t be hitting the plate for like 2 bolts. Looks like I’ll either have to trim away the bonding stuff or just drill/tap the outer 2 screws. More to come... Yes, There are some differences between my sled and yours. I have read on here were some guys with 2000v's have removed the cleat and relocated it. Others have been able to get it done not touching the cleat, but have very little room between it and the TM. I worked mine to be down the port side and keep the head of the TM inside the rub rail for docking. I have just enough room to get a 3/8 dock line on and off the cleat. Having the aluminum plates in your deck you may be able to drill and tap the front holes. If they do not work out you can go the through bolts. Keep us informed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jh141 Posted July 30, 2020 Report Share Posted July 30, 2020 On 7/28/2020 at 9:22 PM, AntonRx said: It finally came!! After being on a waiting list x 8 weeks, my 24V 60" Rhodan was delivered. This thing is sweet! Anyway, I will be mounting myself, so, prepare for some nice pics on here these next few weeks. Whats crazy, is they sent me a motor head stabilizer for free??!! Not sure if this always happens for the longer length motors or what but either way, I got that now as well. Look forward to installing and being able to fish the banks by myself finally. More to come... Checkout the Pathfinder Thread......they have a current discussion on mounting a TM on a 2000v. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jh141 Posted July 30, 2020 Report Share Posted July 30, 2020 My bad, I now see that was an old thread you brought back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AntonRx Posted August 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2020 Well, here it is. Had to drill/tap the left and top holes. used a 1/4-20 tap, with some gun oil to tap the aluminum plate. Was easy. Then, counter sunk holes (prevents spider cracks) and ran bead of 5200. Had to use 2 nylon washers at front right of puck to ensure mount didn’t deform and bend to curve of bow. Was able to through bolt bottom inside bolt. Thing is solid. Pathfinder knew what they were doing by glassing in aluminum plates up front. Attached new Marinco plug. Tmro will be battery install and hopefully, water test. Thanks for all the ideas/help! U 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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