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1999 hewes bonefisher 16' fair price ?


JPH

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So I am about a pull the trigger on a 1999 hewes bonefisher with a yamaha 90 2 stroke. It is in good shape not great but good. Has some small things but suppose to be a  sound boat. Sounds like it has not been ran alot as of late. Registration hasn't been renewed since 2017. It fires first key turn, if everything checks out on a compression test is there any reason not to buy this for 10k ?  Could I get away with any lower ? Dealer is patching holes on top of rail and cleaning up 5200 on poling platform. Screenshot_20200724-154827_Facebook.thumb.jpg.6a39ebfc8cd38c45ec09733c7f974f14.jpg

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Its all about condition. If the boat is structurally sound, the 90's 16 bonefishers typically range in the 8-12k range here in South Florida. My buddy bought a 92 16' for 8500 with a '98 Yamaha 90 recently. Id say if all checks out that its a good price for a '99. Id try to lower price a little more regardless. 

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Have cash when making the offer, cash talks! But hit them at $8,500, forget what the dealer say's, and play from there. Boat has not been in the water for 3 years! Seals are dry need replacing, do all pumps work, he wants 10 grand, make him work for it!

  Every time a system fails, lights, bilge pumps, live well pumps, etc. Deduction! I saw this boat boat and was interested but the time it has been sitting had me nervous. What about a sea trial?

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Exactly what I was thinking. I asked about the pumps and such. The dealer said they will tell owner and fix any of the pumps and have a fiberglass guy coming to patch small holes on rail. I am going to see if they will let me get it in the water. It's a tough market for these boats everything I find that I like seems to sell before I can make a move. Even the dealer was saying how rich guys buy these up just to go to the sandbar. I want to fish it. luckily they will let me put down a refundable deposit in form of a check to hold it and wont touch it unless I am buying. I also happen to have a friend of a friend I will be seeing tomorrow who is a surveyor I am going to talk to. 

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Being a broker for many years, this my help when dealing with one. Brokers work on a 10% commission then add in some neg dollars and what the seller is willing to net. Start with that as an offer. Most sellers will come off their bottom line net. A broker will also cut his commission to around 8% and throw the neg dollars out the window. Example, if I was a broker selling a boat asking 20k I would have about 1200-1500 in for neg $$$. Remember, if buying from a private seller break down the cost of the rig. Boat $$$$$,, Motor $$$$$$$. You will only pay tax on the boat. Motor non taxable. Saves you $$$$$$. Hopes this helps a bit. 😀🙏 fin

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25 minutes ago, Shallowminded6 said:

Of the things most likely needed would be lower unit service and T-stat if it has sat that long. See if you can get them to do that as well and def a sea trial to see if the water passages are clear and so you dont immediately walk into pulling the water jackets etc. 

Should I just make sure it is cooling properly ? And not leaking anywhere around the block ? 

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42 minutes ago, JPH said:

Should I just make sure it is cooling properly ? And not leaking anywhere around the block ? 

You can look for corrosion around where it bolts on. But there is really no way of visualizing without pulling the water jacket cover. T-stats could give you an idea by seeing how badly they are caked up if they havent been changed. Otherwise running it will show you if it will over heat. Im sure the impeller isnt in good shape sittibg for years like that. And the gear oil is probably at or beyond its exp date

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Thanks everyone for the input. I am pulling the trigger. Motor had 115 psi across all cylinders clean fluid. Started and ran great stayed cool whole time. Wasn't the best deal ever at 9.5 but I am happy and excited to be a mbg owner! 

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10 minutes ago, Shallowminded6 said:

Congrats on the new to you sled. Im sure you will love it. Make sure they or you do an in depth service. Will save you in the long run. Let us know how she runs!

Thanks, going to change all fluids water pump etc and maybe put a new carb on it per my mechanics recommendation. Taking to fiber glass guy next week for minor repairs and recommendations. Only other thing I am concerned about and I am going to talk to mechanic is fuel? From all I know is she was last in the water almost 2 years ago. Starts up right way and idles good so far. Said that fuel had stabilizer added... should I do anything such as octane boost and just run it? Or should I look into the old pump and dump. It has a almost full tank... gas smells normal not bad.  

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That will probably be something you will get people on both sides of the spectrum on. Based on you saying it runs fine off of the fuel in it(sea trialed)? If it smells and looks good, I would buy a good Racor fuel filter with a sight bowl at the bottom that you can drain, make sure the filter on the engine is new and run it. Would check both filters regularly and if any issues replace both of them amd drain the rest and dispose of it or use it in something else. There is a post on fuel polishing in the general forum. 

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I did the service, everything looked better than I thought it would. I have a master tech that will walk me through anything I need if I have questions. He told me to burn the gas if it runs bad do the carbs and dump it. I ran it and it ran incredible. Put 11 hours on motor and 41 gallons burned no problems.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
On 8/11/2020 at 7:10 AM, JPH said:

I did the service, everything looked better than I thought it would. I have a master tech that will walk me through anything I need if I have questions. He told me to burn the gas if it runs bad do the carbs and dump it. I ran it and it ran incredible. Put 11 hours on motor and 41 gallons burned no problems.

Keep checking your RACOR fuel filter and change it often....old gas is not good...

 

dc

 

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