CRD Dawg Posted June 20, 2020 Report Share Posted June 20, 2020 Greetings All, Well, after almost 6 months of looking, I pulled the trigger on this lightly refurbished (and unfinished) 2001 Master Angler 18. Negotiated a fair price based on issues found in survey and items left to address. Long story somewhat short, the previous owner (which I believe was the third, boat had titles printed in 2004 and 2019), took on the project but decided to move on before fully finished. I was told the hull and 150 HPDI VMax that was on it had about 300hrs and were believed to be original when the previous owner took ownership. Surveyor felt it was a reasonable claim based on condition he found it to be in. Outboard was removed and sold. Poling platform was discarded as well. It was repowered with a 175hr Suzuki 150HP that came off a bass boat that was upgrading to a 200HP. The boat had some top deck refurbishments done at the Skiff Shop last Summer - non-skid redone, rubrail removed so cap could be resealed and rebonded to hull, holes from poling platform, trolling motor, push pole holders were filled and repaired, and the console was removed with all holes reglassed (except for helm and binnacle), repainted inside and out, and reinstalled. Fuel tank was drained/cleaned/new sending unit installed, along with some other items - new livewell pumps, hoses, fuel water separator, binnacle, helm, rebuilt hydraulic steering, and a few other items. The outboard was mounted in February of this year. Thanks to everyone who offered guidance while I was looking and has answered questions along the way, especially Which Way Is Up, who has been a great resource for my endless questions. There are still some items to address, so I thought I’d start a thread as they come up. Will add a few pics once I figure out how to keep them from posting upside down... Pics and Questions next... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRD Dawg Posted June 20, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2020 Have a few pics of deck too, but they come out sideways and upside down... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRD Dawg Posted June 20, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2020 Question #1 - Like many I believe, this boat does not have stern cleats. I know most probably use the poling platform to tie off to docks. Has anyone come up with creative ways to install stern pop up cleats? Is there even access or room below deck to do this? Thanks. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bud_man Posted June 22, 2020 Report Share Posted June 22, 2020 Congratulations! Great looking boat! The flat black motor looks sharp. You can use the stern eyes to tie off but not as convenient as a popup cleat. I haven't done it, but I think you would have to cut access through the rear storage area to get to the deck to install cleats. A small deck plate in the wall of the storage liner would probably give you enough room to get a cleat and backing plate bolted in. Enjoy your new boat! Cheers, Bud Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inshore1 Posted June 22, 2020 Report Share Posted June 22, 2020 Good looking rig! I have a 21 MA and when I bought it, it had one pop up cleat in the front and one on each side of the rear. I wanted one on either side of the cooler in front of the console so I ordered 2 slim pop up cleats from gemlux and put one on either side “midship”. I do have rod lockers on both sides so I was able to access the backside of the cleat in order to throughbolt. You may have to cut an access hole as stated above to get access to the backside. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRD Dawg Posted June 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2020 Hey thanks for the replies. Was kind of figuring it would take cutting access panels in the starboard and port hatches to get access to underside of deck. Not too worried about starboard side, but really didn’t want to have to cut into wall of the port side live well wall. Found these and was hoping to kill 2 birds with one stone as I need rod holders too. https://www.boatoutfitters.com/6-cleat-with-rod-holder?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6YvRj-CW6gIVBobICh3nBggjEAQYASABEgJxEvD_BwE#216=133 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smilemaker Posted June 23, 2020 Report Share Posted June 23, 2020 If you are going to add rod holders you can often put the cleat to the rear of the rod holder and access the bolts for the cleat from the hole for the rod holder. Then place rod holder to finish up the hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fin-addict Posted June 23, 2020 Report Share Posted June 23, 2020 If going to add aft rod holders you can get a piece of pvc pipe and attach a cleat to that for a tie off. They also sell that online. To keep it simple, not the best idea but you and add reg cleats on the gunnel as close to the splash well as possible. Screw down and 5200. It’s a location thats not used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRD Dawg Posted June 24, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2020 Thank you all for the responses. Lots of good ideas to get me thinking. My wheels are turnin now. Much appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRD Dawg Posted July 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2020 Another question. What would be the best way to validate my fuel tank capacity? Trying to get the new Suzuki “smart gauge” properly set up but can’t confirm fuel tank capacity. I think I’ve read 18’s came with tanks from 45-52 gallons? Haven’t been able to find a ton of info on it though. Wondering if I could contact Maverick and give them my HIN? Not sure what kind of build records they keep. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redzone1 Posted July 14, 2020 Report Share Posted July 14, 2020 The 1999 18.5 MA I had was 42 gallons Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triplec Posted July 14, 2020 Report Share Posted July 14, 2020 52 minutes ago, CRD Dawg said: Another question. What would be the best way to validate my fuel tank capacity? Trying to get the new Suzuki “smart gauge” properly set up but can’t confirm fuel tank capacity. I think I’ve read 18’s came with tanks from 45-52 gallons? Haven’t been able to find a ton of info on it though. Wondering if I could contact Maverick and give them my HIN? Not sure what kind of build records they keep. Thanks! My 96 is stamped 50 gallons on the tank. You might have the same tag if it is a TNT tank and OEM maybe. I can see mine through the front storage hatch inspection plate. This brochure indicates 50 as well. http://www.mbgforum.com/brochures/maverick/1994-present_as_of_2007_18'5_Master_Angler.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RacerxV6 Posted July 14, 2020 Report Share Posted July 14, 2020 On 6/20/2020 at 7:38 AM, CRD Dawg said: Have a few pics of deck too, but they come out sideways and upside down... CRD Dawg, if you have your pictures on your computer "Windows based" you can edit in the photo app. Orient your picture accordingly and then do a save as and then you should have no problems posting your pics with the correct orientation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRD Dawg Posted July 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2020 Thanks again everyone for the responses. What has everyone done regarding installing “stops” for the hatches? I see no evidence that the anchor locker, starboard locker, livewell or port side release well hatches have ever had any type of hatch stop mechanism installed. Only the large bow locker, rod locker and seating locker have cord stops. Both the bow and seating locker are showing stress cracks where the cord is anchored under the edge of the hatch opening. Biggest concern is the anchor locker which I will be accessing often. Trying to pull and manipulate the anchor while balancing the hatch door on my left leg is not fun. If it falls to the port side, ripped out hinge and damaged fiberglass, if it falls closed, damaged toes. I do not really like the cord stops because they are obviously causing issues and the hatch can still fall closed. Has anyone installed some sort of gas shock on their hatches? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wthree3 Posted July 16, 2020 Report Share Posted July 16, 2020 My 2005 has gas shocks on the front and aft large hatches. The rod locker has a wire rope. The anchor, center livewell, port and starboard hatch don't have stops. Lids open about 130 degrees and are supported by gelcoat to gelcoat contact at the hinge line. No issues with stress cracks on any of them but I've always been careful not to put any load on them when they are in the open position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Chief5130 Posted July 16, 2020 Popular Post Report Share Posted July 16, 2020 Good looking hull, I have always liked the shear lines of the Master Angler. As for access to install cleats that you do not have access to reach behind, you have 2 options that I know of. 1. Use the backing plate if provided or make one and Epoxy the nuts on to it (See photo below). Cut out the hole for the cleat and insert the backing plate using some monofilament to hold it in place. Put the cleat over it and just get the screws started. Trim off the mono and bring the machine screws tight. I have done this and the cleats have been there for years now. 2. This will be some what controversial with some. Ken Doss (Hobo) posted here that he installed many cleats with just drill and taping the holes for machine screws (Typically 10-24 NC machine screws). I assume he used 5200 or 4200 bedding. He said that he never had one fail. If I were to do one again, this is what I would do too. Good luck! 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRD Dawg Posted December 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2020 All, Circling back here, spent the last few months running boat as is, before taking it out of commission to address some items noted in the survey, as well as adding electronics, trolling motor and a few other items. Still wanting to add stern cleats and maybe rear rod holders. Been tying off using the stern eyes, but long term I’ve decided I’ve just got to have cleats. Have spent a quite a bit of time studying access below deck if I was to attempt to install in the noted areas below. What I’ve found is that access, but really more importantly, available space below deck appears to be an issue side to side, due to the different dimensions of the starboard storage area and the dimensions of the port side release well. Essentially the walls below deck of the 2 lockers (starboard and port) are in different locations due to the different volume of the spaces, so I’m not sure they can be mounted in the same place on each side. Hope that makes sense. Any more feedback from anyone who has ever added stern cleats? May just give up and mount non-retracting cleats on the vertical outer walls of the splashwell or on the deck at the edge of the splashwell, but those options just don’t really appeal to me. I have also investigated the space between center livewell and outer storage, but not real jazzed about that option either. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wthree3 Posted December 13, 2020 Report Share Posted December 13, 2020 2005 MA 18 with factory cleats. Exact same location on each side. Centerline of cleat is 8 in from the side and 5 in from the back. Hope that helps. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRD Dawg Posted December 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2020 Thank you for the info and pics! The placement is close to, but not quite what I would have expected. It is about the distance from the edge of the deck running starboard to port, but it is much closer to stern than I would have thought. With the overhang of the deck at the stern, I’m surprised it’s that far back and that there’s space below to accommodate. In that placement, I wonder if they are through bolted or just anchored to the deck. Also intrigued by your rod holders. My boat’s at the glass shop now, may make a visit this week to go measure and investigate some more. Are those 12x12 trim tabs? They look pretty big. Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wthree3 Posted December 15, 2020 Report Share Posted December 15, 2020 Yes, tabs are 12". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRD Dawg Posted January 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2021 Circling back here for the MBG braintrust. Work is finally starting on some repairs and refurbishments at the local glass shop. Will probably try to get stern cleats installed while there. On another note, I’ve wondered about the condition of the deck drain tubes and splashwell tubes. 3 look to be original and one appears to have been replaced at some point and not length measured very well as it hangs over a bit (port side deck tube). The replaced one does seem better (though somewhat sloppily) sealed and water tight. The splashwell looks to have been resprayed and the seam / paint around the tubes has a faint crack. I guess they just sprayed over whatever sealant was there. So I started looking at replacement tubes and found some that are flared out like a trumpet. Anyone have experience replacing these? Are flared tubes a good idea? How in the world do you get the original ones out and is replacement a good idea? Figured just a good item to address while refurbishments are underway. Thanks in advance. Replacement tube option Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRD Dawg Posted January 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2021 Here’s a few pics of a splashwell drain and the deck drains. First pic is splash well tube with barely visible break in paint around perimeter of tube. Pic 2 is port tube with overhang. Pic 3 is starboard side, looks to be original in good shape but not sure how well sealed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smilemaker Posted January 10, 2021 Report Share Posted January 10, 2021 I placed many fittings like those in the old days. It is used mostly for transoms on smaller skiffs a boats with smaller transoms. To place properly you will need a flaring tool that goes through the fitting and has a flared end. As you tighten the screw it compresses and flares the end. It is good for a solid bulkhead but if two separate pieces it will not hold a good seal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoneyB Posted January 10, 2021 Report Share Posted January 10, 2021 That brass tube is designed to be one piece through the transom. Slide the tube in to the flared end and mark the tube on the other as it exits the hull. As stated above use the flavoring tool to tighten it up and roll the cut off end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whichwaysup Posted January 11, 2021 Report Share Posted January 11, 2021 I wpuld stick with Plastic and just reseal. I need to do the same on mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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