Jump to content
gnarlydog

Rewire Project - '00 Hewes Bonefisher

Recommended Posts

Well with all the parks and marinas closed in South FL, I figured now is the time to tackle a much needed rewire project on my 2000 Hewes Bonefisher 16. I've read dozens of rewire threads on various forums and feel as prepared as I'll ever be. I'm somewhat of a novice when it comes to electrical, so any additional advice is welcome.

My set up is simple -- starting battery, battery switch, trim tabs, bilge, nav lights, under gunnel lights, GPS, stereo. 

1) Any tips on rewiring the under gunnel lighting? These have never worked since I've owned the boat. I believe the wires were ran through small holes below where the lights were installed. Should I be able to tie a small rope on the terminal end of the wire and fish them out from the light end? If that fails are there any somewhat easy alternatives?

2) Should I spend the time rewiring the trim tabs? The port side tab seems incredibly challenging to get to from inside the boat. No idea how I could reach it, but figured I'd ask. Haven't had any issues with the tabs.

3) Any opinions on buying new new Yamaha wiring harnesses for the gauges/trim? Haven't had any electrical issues with the gauges or trim/tilt, but if I'm rewiring most everything else, figured now might be the time.

4) what's the best way to add/wire a new fold down anchor light? Where do you run the wires?

I'm planning on buying ratchet crimpers (anchor single crimpers seem to have good reviews), anchor wiring and heat shrink terminals, liquid electrical tape, dielectric grease. Blue Sea Systems fue block with bus (12 circuits in case I want to add anything in the future). Any other tips/suggestions?  I'll post up a wiring diagram soon of the initial plan.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I admire your commitment.  My 16' is a 2004 and I have done almost everything but a rewire.  It's about time I tackled it.  I think over the years every time something was removed or added the old wiring was just left.  Looks like an explosion in a spaghetti factory.  One thing I have done is rewire the trim tabs.  The wire from the actuators come through the transom into the bilge.  I pulled new wire form the switch on the console and connected to the wire in the bilge and sealed it as good as I could with double shrink wrap.  If you still have the "pie hole" hatch in the splash well for bilge access you're going to have to replace it with the largest rectangular hatch that will fit inorder to work in the bilge.  If you search on line there are some available the use 4 latches on the corners so the covers are removable instead of just hinged on one side.  That will make it a lot easier to pull wires and to do connections in the bilge. 

Also, you should be able to pull heavy mono to the under gunnel lights using the wire that;s there now.  Same is true to replace the fold down stern light on the poling platform.  Post up reports and pics as you go.  Good luck.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, gnarlydog said:

Well with all the parks and marinas closed in South FL, I figured now is the time to tackle a much needed rewire project on my 2000 Hewes Bonefisher 16. I've read dozens of rewire threads on various forums and feel as prepared as I'll ever be. I'm somewhat of a novice when it comes to electrical, so any additional advice is welcome.

My set up is simple -- starting battery, battery switch, trim tabs, bilge, nav lights, under gunnel lights, GPS, stereo. 

1) Any tips on rewiring the under gunnel lighting? These have never worked since I've owned the boat. I believe the wires were ran through small holes below where the lights were installed. Should I be able to tie a small rope on the terminal end of the wire and fish them out from the light end? If that fails are there any somewhat easy alternatives?

2) Should I spend the time rewiring the trim tabs? The port side tab seems incredibly challenging to get to from inside the boat. No idea how I could reach it, but figured I'd ask. Haven't had any issues with the tabs.

3) Any opinions on buying new new Yamaha wiring harnesses for the gauges/trim? Haven't had any electrical issues with the gauges or trim/tilt, but if I'm rewiring most everything else, figured now might be the time.

4) what's the best way to add/wire a new fold down anchor light? Where do you run the wires?

I'm planning on buying ratchet crimpers (anchor single crimpers seem to have good reviews), anchor wiring and heat shrink terminals, liquid electrical tape, dielectric grease. Blue Sea Systems fue block with bus (12 circuits in case I want to add anything in the future). Any other tips/suggestions?  I'll post up a wiring diagram soon of the initial plan.

http://newboatbuilders.com/pages/electricity13.html

 

see this link....good informaion.

 

dc

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, gnarlydog said:

Any other tips/suggestions? 

Where are you located in South Florida?

I would stick to the critical systems; Nav lights, bilge pumps, etc. and get your feet wet there. They are a simple 2 or 3 wire system. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There is a place called B&R Electronics in the falls warehouse area, off of 129th terr & 87th ave. They carry a large supply of marine wire, heatshrink, and terminals. It is a mom & pop type outfit. You might want to think about giving them a try, I know how expensive it can get. Also Andy and his crew at El Capitan, he has a catalog and get you just about anything you need for a boat at great pricing! US1 and about 142nd street.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info, if they are open I'll check them out. Hardest part might be pulling some of these wires. I think they are running to the gunnel lights but neither the positive nor ground wires want to budge. Patience and beer. One I lack and the other I have plenty of. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you can’t pull new wire with old wire try using a electricians fish tape to get to where you want o pull the wire. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Below is an image of the rewire plan. Found a similar diagram on the web and modified it for my project. I'm leaning towards using duplex wiring and labels.  What size fuse are you guys running from your battery switch to fuse panel? I had a 20A on mine, but that seemed low based on other posts I've read. 

442643109_BoatRewire.thumb.PNG.e007e158a705e97c7a69f7e4986872ae.PNG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
48 minutes ago, gnarlydog said:

Below is an image of the rewire plan. Found a similar diagram on the web and modified it for my project. I'm leaning towards using duplex wiring and labels.  What size fuse are you guys running from your battery switch to fuse panel? I had a 20A on mine, but that seemed low based on other posts I've read. 

442643109_BoatRewire.thumb.PNG.e007e158a705e97c7a69f7e4986872ae.PNG

I don't see a need for a fuse between the panel and battery switch.  If you want some more safety inline you can add a 30amp breaker. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

  Just add up the amp draw of all loads round it off and add 10%/15% to that and make that your main line fuse and start from there. I prefer a main line breaker in the event of a dead short like something hitting the terminal. Personal preference only manufacturers don't do it..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So the wires running from my under gunnel lights / courtesy lights didn't want to budge. Tried pulling from both the light end and the switch end and nothing was giving at all. Tried for a solid hour and nothing. Put a little extra force in it and they broke. They never worked since I had the boat, so I won't miss them. But running the wire from the existing location (though a hole in the gunnel) is a no go.

Have any of you guys installed completely new courtesy lights/wire or ran the wires in a new location? If so, how'd you do it? If it's simple enough, I'd like to add them. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

00 Bayfisher 18 - Added lights to my console, two are installed (1 on each side) and I ran wire to the front of the console in case I wanted to add another.  Lights are LED, so minimal diameter wire was needed.  I ran the wire from fuse block across top of console door with tape to temp setup, then went back and added some silicone in certain areas to tack in place.  On the side of the box I ran along the corner of the console and followed bottom of console up to new light.  For the forward light, I came across the top underside of the console and tucked the wire in the top corner of the front seat and followed it around to the front and then just taped the line in place directly above where I planned to add the future light.  I have excess wire as I wanted to do a new console switch panel soon and I will have to add switch for the new lights.  I placed the lights underneath the side rod holders for protection and low enough that they didn’t block the light.  It’s a great setup, the lights are not visable in general and safe from being kicked or otherwise hit.  The lights were set low and I drilled into the main pad for the console to sit on.  I had to pierce the sealant along the bottom of the console, but added sealant for the screw holes and on outside and inside were I ran wire.  The wire hole was minimal in diameter., I think my bit was 1/8” , or less.  From the pics below, the sides of the Gunnel are reflecting the light.  As I didn’t have a spare switch, I added a lighted toggle on the upper left corner for the “short term”. Setup has worked well for the winter, but I do hit the switch occasionally by accident.  Lights are inovative lighting, utility led http://shop.innovativelight.com/shop/?3_led_utility_light&show=product&productID=266863

59843739-20B2-4548-B723-4F794E8640D3.thumb.jpeg.1af340ac47c6e595534243f58e76eb73.jpeg

4FDAF515-DA02-4A8E-9558-5BB5C596F87F.thumb.jpeg.fc2b7299084a4a6ab78b1187bf1967f9.jpeg

66DC3929-0F93-4345-85B1-6B5522DE8BE5.thumb.jpeg.8a9d4d470430810b417bd0396db2ed16.jpeg

7494934D-FA6D-407E-B1F9-6BA4B4029D3E.thumb.jpeg.d4863ce6b2530aed54b6fe6e0b093a6a.jpeg

C870D601-3D17-4F85-B7BC-876A5B065DE6.thumb.jpeg.73a73f881b41b3d82b8a23f9364ada3c.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info! For some reason I was only thinking about having the lights under the gunnels, but putting them on the console is such a simpler task. I'll definitely go this route, your lights look great.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I ran 10 gauge to the fuse block and 14 gauge for all my lights (nav, anchor, courtesy). I bought a three wire bilge cable, which was also 14 gauge. Left my tabs with original wiring for now. 

I bought most of the wiring, terminals, shrink wrap from tinnedmarinewire.com. I bought switches, switch plate and heat shrink labels from newwiremarine.com. I bought the fuse block, courtesy lights, anchor light and crimping tool (Titan 11955 - works great) from Amazon. 

Have most of the new wiring ran, just waiting on some some additional supplies to arrive this week before I can start connecting. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, gnarlydog said:

I ran 10 gauge to the fuse block and 14 gauge for all my lights (nav, anchor, courtesy). I bought a three wire bilge cable, which was also 14 gauge. Left my tabs with original wiring for now. 

I bought most of the wiring, terminals, shrink wrap from tinnedmarinewire.com. I bought switches, switch plate and heat shrink labels from newwiremarine.com. I bought the fuse block, courtesy lights, anchor light and crimping tool (Titan 11955 - works great) from Amazon. 

Have most of the new wiring ran, just waiting on some some additional supplies to arrive this week before I can start connecting. 

thanks for the info.  Heat shrink labels??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Printed labels that say Nav, GPS, Trim, etc that you can shrink wrap on the wire. I'm using duplex wiring, not color coded, so the labels will allow for easy identification. They sell them for 0.75 each. Only a few bucks for all of my accessories and it'll provide a nice clean look.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
17 hours ago, gnarlydog said:

Printed labels that say Nav, GPS, Trim, etc that you can shrink wrap on the wire. I'm using duplex wiring, not color coded, so the labels will allow for easy identification. They sell them for 0.75 each. Only a few bucks for all of my accessories and it'll provide a nice clean look.

do you have a link?  I couldn't find them

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Random question. About half way through the project. While troubleshooting my trim tabs,  I came across these connections. I had previously assumed they were related to the tabs, but that doesn't appear to be the case. Any idea what these wires/posts are for? I don't think the wires are running to the console. Heavy guage. Just curious before I start pulling on stuff I shouldn't. 

 

IMG_20200402_110413833_HDR~2.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Those are usually used to connect to your engine.  You run from the house battery and this is a junction point.  I would follow the wire to see where they go, but, in the state they are in, I would also be careful....I would take them off and use a bunch of black tape to on the connections...it could be "Live" and you'll end up sparking something.

 

DC

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info guys. I have a starting battery and a battery dedicated to my trolling motor. Engine cables are connected directly to the starting battery and battery switch. Only wires on my TM battery are from the TM. These junction posts don't appear to have any power going to them, but I'll take your advice and disconnect them to be safe. I'm interested to see what's on the other end! 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

After about 30 minutes of pushing and pulling, pulled out about 20 feet of wire connected to nothing. Tomorrow will be troubleshooting why one of my tabs aren't working, which will hopefully just be a butt connector. Then on to the new amp and speakers install. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...