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smboudreaux

fixing the hook in the bottom of a LT20

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i havent got under it to verify i have a hook but it seems like most lt20s do.  so assuming i do have a hook, whats the common method of dealing with the issue?  I know its gonna be different for each case but im thinking some fairing compund if its not to bad.  if its greater than a 1/4"i feel like it wouldnt be that hard to put in a few layer of glass to fill it up before fairing it out.  how much a performance stealer is the hook issue?

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A hook will act like a trim tab, tabbed down a bit. It all depends on the speed and the wt. load in the boat. Most hooks are caused by not enough support under the stern be it trailer or lift.

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I'd imagine If you took a straight edge long enough to go from mid point on the hull to the stern you see any lack of straight orientation.  My 20fter has  a trailer with support to the transom and stored during the operating season in the water at a marina,so I shouldn't have that issue,but I've never checked it. I do have a problem with bow plowing with no tabs after 40mphs,so maybe it could have a hook. 

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6 hours ago, polliwog said:

I'd imagine If you took a straight edge long enough to go from mid point on the hull to the stern you see any lack of straight orientation.  My 20fter has  a trailer with support to the transom and stored during the operating season in the water at a marina,so I shouldn't have that issue,but I've never checked it. I do have a problem with bow plowing with no tabs after 40mphs,so maybe it could have a hook. 

Son had the same problem with a flats boat he bought several years ago. Thought it was a hook, not. Previous owner mounted his tabs to low causing drag as is tabs were down, bow low. May want to check that first. Good luck, fin

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Finn addict ,thanks for the thought. Unfortunately or fortunately my tabs are factory installed and are level with the hull in the stern. I have been thinking about a different prop with more bow  lift.  My new engine ,a Yamaha 150 came with a brand less stainless prop and no marking,so I don't know the pitch.  It works well as far a hole shot and RPMs,but plows at 4500rpms.

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The LT20 naturally plows the bow regardless of prop, its just the nature of that hull design and one of my bigger complaints about it. 

You could take the hook out but who knows how the boat will react or if it will porpoise. In addition, you will more than likely hurt the resale by modifying the bottom in such a way. If you are in love with the boat and plan on keeping it then do it.

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On 1/6/2020 at 5:55 PM, smboudreaux said:

i havent got under it to verify i have a hook but it seems like most lt20s do.  so assuming i do have a hook, whats the common method of dealing with the issue?  I know its gonna be different for each case but im thinking some fairing compund if its not to bad.  if its greater than a 1/4"i feel like it wouldnt be that hard to put in a few layer of glass to fill it up before fairing it out.  how much a performance stealer is the hook issue?

I've not owned a LT20, but curious for info.  Are you experiencing performance issues that could be caused by a hook?  If the boat is plowing at speed, I would first try these things (one at a time), before glassing/fairing the hull bottom: If there are TM batteries in the bow, move them aft and test.  If you have a jack plate installed, remove it and mount the outboard as low as possible (top hole) and test.  Try a high-rake 3-blade bow-lifting prop like a Yamaha Pro Series, or Tempest Plus.  If the boat performs better for you after these things are done, but porpoises, you could add a stabilizer plate to the motor cavitation plate like a Bob's TrueTracker, so trim tabs are not needed as much to calm down the hopping.  A lot of stuff to try, but might help if you have the time to do it.

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All good ideas. If the boat has a natural hook or due to the hull design and not by a lift or trailer bunks,  I would not fool with it. Seems to be a known issue, jmo. 

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I was told once by a seasoned vetran on the LT20......that if you dont have a rooster tail going, it ain't bow up trimmed enough.....LOL....it works..........Usually the only area in the water is about the two side rod holders back based on the spray line at the surface of the water.   Nose stays up.  Best cruise speed is 3000rpms at about 28-30mph......The hull loves that speed.  You can feel the hull release from the water at the sweet spot

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1 hour ago, BaitTank said:

I was told once by a seasoned vetran on the LT20......that if you dont have a rooster tail going, it ain't bow up trimmed enough.....LOL....it works..........Usually the only area in the water is about the two side rod holders back based on the spray line at the surface of the water.   Nose stays up.  Best cruise speed is 3000rpms at about 28-30mph......The hull loves that speed.  You can feel the hull release from the water at the sweet spot

Was told basically the same thing but with any boat, when standing/sitting at the console the spray should be coming off the boat under your feet. That's how you know the boat is running true. My Redfisher would perform best when I did that!

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I have come back to this thread after a while and feel better about the boat.  I typically run at 4000 rpms and high 30's mph.  The boat seems to love this set up.  As I increase the rpms the boat noses down like most of you have suggested.  I'm ok with 40mph most of the time.  Frankly if you try pushing the speed, unless it's very calm you're holding on with gritted teeth. LOL

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