jh141

Capt. Troy, I counted it a major Blessing to have been the son that had the privilege of caring for my father the last 16 weeks of his life. God put me in a very difficult situation ( no Job ) and two weeks later my Dad got sick. I Treasure that Time thought it was very difficult at the time. Hang in there. Count it All Joy. Praying for you and your family.

Drummer, I would like to buy your prop. nine five four, seven five six, three zero nine one. Please text me or I sent you a pm. Thanks

This is what my 2012 22 TRS has. Inshore Marine did the Trolling motor install thru the dealer. That was the option when I ordered the boat. Clean and easy. Minimize the connections. Negitive goes directly from the 36 volt bank (in a custom built star board box in the console) to the trolling motor plug at the bow. The Positive ( orange ) goes from the 36 volt bank to this breaker in the glove box and then to the bow trolling motor plug. When you push the red button on the breaker the yellow lever drops down and disconnects the circuit. Push the yellow lever back up and the circuit reconnects. If there is a short in the circuit the breaker opens and the yellow lever comes down to indicate there is a problem. Hope this helps someone!

Mine is a March of 2012 and they were still using a single switch in the starboard bilge for engine and a 50 amp breaker in the glove box for the trolling motor. I like the setup in your picture. Wish mine was that setup. Much cleaner. Love that MBC is always looking for a better way. They also now do the side door on the console with duel switches. If I ever need to rewire thats the setup we will use.

Ok, makes sense that it has a rotary switch because it is direct wired. I have never seen one wired in that way. Sorry.

There are three types. 1. flat four pin 2. flat five pin 3. Round seven pin. My trailer came with a Flat five pin because of the brakes. My dodge trunk came standard with a round 7 pin in the rear bumper . I bought a flat 5 pin to round 7 pin adapter. The trailer flat 5 pin plugs into the back of the 7 pin adapter. The 7 pin adapter plugs into my truck. The wiring is a industry standard. Chances are your truck has a round 7 pin on the bumper. Have that put on the trailer by your supplier.

All Those voltages look great!!! from your post, [ However, the battery strength indicator on the trolling motor is only showing 3/4 charge. ] Take a look at all your trolling motor connections. Make sure the plug at the bow is not damaged.

I believe what he is saying is first "Bought a new truck" so may not have been capable of actuating the reverse lock out solenoid. On the 16,000 lb actuator he has there is no easy way to manually stop the brake master cylinder from being actuated while backing up ( so the wedge). My trailer has a hole drilled in it so if you have a lock out solenoid failure you can pull the pin from the latch lock and put it in the hole to manually stop the brake master cylinder from being depressed. SWM1day, I would drill a hole right where the two parts on the couplet meet. In a pinch you use the pin to stop the brakes from actuating in reverse.

Did you figure out what was wrong or find a fix?

Use a wick to move the water up and through the drains. I do this for my coolers and my bilge through the drain plug hole. Old tee shirt works or you can use some types of small cotton like rope. Speeds up drying time. Keeps mold and mildew from growing.

Most setups do not use a rotary switch for the trolling motor circuit. Most use a 50 amp breaker with a easy push disconnect and reconnect. Most Pathfinders I have seen use 6 or 8 gauge Orange (positive) and Black (negative) wire that goes from the trolling motor bank (one, two or three batteries) to the bow trolling motor plug. The Orange wire is interrupted only by the 50 amp easy disconnect breaker. I see no reason for the trolling motor circuit to have a battery switch even if one of the trolling motor batteries is also a back up house battery. I think you might want to have someone that is in the know look at what you have. Are you having a problem with what you have?

I would load test the batteries before doing anything. Make sure they are up to par. Although there not very old it does not cost anything to have them tested. Your local Advanced Auto or Auto Zone can do that for you. Take your battery's and have them Load tested. If they test good then the charger may have an issue.

Awesome, waiting for the pics........

Just Sayin.........egretboy on thehulltruth is WRONG. Also they were talking Minn Kota vs Stealth and that is no comparison at all. If anyone wants to pay $1200.00 for something that can be done for under $600.00 I say more power to them, Heck when It comes time I may go to the JL Marine Charge because it looks cooler. What I am saying though is that " I " have a Stealth AC/DC and it has worked perfectly since 2012 when Bob installed it. I have only replaced my batteries one time since I bought my boat new in 2012 as a maintenance routine. THE Stealth Works. It does not Leave out a battery in a three battery 36V trolling bank and keeps all four of my batteries in perfect readiness. It uses my outboards alternator to keep all four topped of during the day as I move from location to location. I am sure the JL Marine Charger will do the same thing. Just Saying............ Fin.....Have You found your new boat yet???

I am with you Capt. Love the smiles that snook is causing......