jh141

"when You say this worked for 15 min could you explain" So if I use the start up procedure given to me by MotorGuide and mentioned in the earlier post, it bypasses the "trolling motor update required" screen and the interface shows up on the left side of the Lowrance and it works until I use one of the GPS features. The trolling then does stupid stuff like wrapping the cord around the shaft or Anchor Lock for a minute then just automatically turn Anchor Lock off or if I use Heading Lock it pulls to one side then spins the motor in a circle. CRAZY. I Think The "Trolling Motor Update Required" Damaged either the new Control Board or the New GPS Module. MotorGuide says take it to a dealer but it is not under warranty and the dealer says they can not test the GPS feature anyway. I have now put my old GPS Module back in and disconnected the Gateway. It works pretty good but still sometimes drops Anchor Lock. Just not consistent. The only other thing that could possibility be the problem is the Gateway. I thought I was doing a good thing when it needed a lower unit and I decided to Update (replace to the newer style) the GPS Module and Control Board at the same time. MotorGuide did say the new parts is what triggered it to think it needed an Update. It is a shame. I have been The #1 MotorGuide Fan. Now I have a pretty much new trolling motor that is not going to meet my fishing needs, I MUST HAVE Anchor Lock and Heading Lock. If not I would just put my tiller steer back on. Not really, the wireless remote is awesome, but I am now spoiled, anchor and heading lock are game changers. I am going to the Rhodan as soon as I get the call its ready. I just hate for someone here to spend all that money and be disappointed because I did not share this info. As Far Lowrance goes I Love It. I have a 3 in 1 Active Imaging transducer coming to replace my Total Scan. Being told it is a major upgrade to the resolution.

That's Great !!!!! To flush and run his motor Dino uses a plastic horse drinking water tub I believe. Think He said he got it at a feed store. I am not a fan of the flusher device that fits on the nose of the lower unit. Mine works but I have a ton of water pressure and I shorten the cord that holds it on. Still takes a minute or so to indicate its working.

Sounds good. Please Let us know!

Manual says 'Minimum" compression at 68 degrees, wide open throttle, all spark plugs removed = 104.4 psi As a norm I am looking for the same compression in all cylinders. Though I have never needed to check my SHO, I would expect to see 140-160 psi on a good motor. Last motors I compression checked was a pair of Yamaha F250s and they were bumping 155 plus on my gauge and were all within 4 percent of each other. Those were very good motors with a little over 1000 hours each. They are still pushing a 26 foot safe boat around years later.

Sorry to hear.......When I put mine on the flusher that goes on the lower unit when brand new or just for maintenance, to does take a minute or two to start pushing water out through the pee indicator, but just a minute or so. I would start over on the water pump, same parts just take it all apart and check everything. I would start with the passage from the lower unit pickup to the base of the pump. I use grease to hold gaskets and o rings, not rtv silicone. Make sure you turn the input shaft "clockwise" when placing the housing and stainless insert over the impeller. I also put a thin coating of grease all over the inside of the stainless insert. Make sure the impeller key way is in place. The next place is the transfer tube seal on the top of the housing. Another great place for a thin coat of grease. I have in the past trimmed the motor up with the lower unit removed and connected a hose to the transfer tube to run water thru all the passages in the powerhead. It makes no sense to me what you are going through. It just sounds like the impeller is not keyed to the input shaft correctly, like it is slipping. These Water Pumps are pretty stout because they are low pressure-high volume unlike in the past where two stroke water pumps were higher pressure and more susceptible to wear out. Even when my housing was damaged ( by my dealer running the motor on the flush port ) it still worked well and did not overheat when in the water at any speed. The only thing that has hindered my cooling system was bad thermostats. I know you have most likely done all these things. Wish I could help. If you need any info let me know, I have a Service Manual for these motors.

I appreciate the info. Thank You!!! I worked with Lowrance support and have backed up all the way to 18.2 one version and test period at a time. I have no problem with Lowrance. I love my Carbon 16 and was happy with my HDS gen 2 10". The problem is with MotorGuide and their Tech Support. Looking back my XI5 was ok ( it did some weird stuff and acted up sometimes when using anchor lock and heading lock from day one ) up until I had to replace the lower unit due to normal wear and tear. When I took it apart one pin on the control board broke and caused the battery level LED to stop working so I replaced it. The new universal control board is a little different but seemed fine and when I put the XI5 on the NEMA network The Lowrance ask to update the XI5. It has never been the same. I even replaced the GPS module on the XI5 to their new one and that did not help. MotorGuide blames Lowrance. Lowrance has no explaination. MotorGuide will not help except to say, Do this: Power up XI5 stowed Deploy XI5 Wait for GPS connection on XI5 Power up NEMA Power up Lowrance That worked for about 15 minutes. Could this have anything to do with the NEW Lowrance Ghost.......... I have now disconnected the Gateway from the XI5 control board and am using the XI5 as a stand alone GPS enabled TM. I have redone the calibrations and done everything possible over the last two months to help this XI5 to operate correctly in Anchor Lock and Heading Lock. It just will not. So I am left with Buy a New one or "GO A DIFFERENT DIRECTION" I Chose "RHODAN" I have been in constant contact with Rhodan and even if their Lowrance interface does not come for a while that's OK. I am much more in need of consistent and precise Anchor Lock and Heading lock. So I will have a completely rebuilt MotorGuide XI5 (new Lower Unit, new Shaft, new Transmission, new Control Board, new GPS Module and I have all the receipts ) For sale, that's if i can refrain from running it over with my truck. By the way, I replaced the Transmission because it was slowly pulling right on max speed.

Look for a Deutsch connector that is not being used. On my 2012 2200 TRS there is an extra Deutsch ready to go next to my recirculate bait well pump. That unused connector is controlled by one of the switches on your panel. My Pathfinder has four or five live switches and connectors not being used. The pic is the correct Deutsh connector these boats use. DT series.

http://clearviewbaitwellfilters.com Problem solved 8 years now. I can leave the clear cover or completly remove it. You could also copy Cams ideal if you are a DIYer. Cam is great to deal with and I have bought two of his solutions and they are awesome and easy.

Got it. The 20 years threw me for a sec. Mine is also the 250 SHO four stroke 4.2 L. Did not want to waste your time, Just making sure, there is sometimes still some confusion between the HDPI vmax 2 stroke and the SHO 4 stroke. On mine I changed the thermostats and thermostat housings. Thermostats in most likely the cause, it was on mine. The manual says to rotate the shaft clockwise when installing the water pump housing over the impeller. Yamaha sure is proud of their thermostats. I paid $50.00 bucks apiece, but it solved my temp issue.

RHODAN.........sorry..........

I Do not wish to throw mud in clear water but I have an XI5 and its not a question of whether it is worth it, it is WILL THE GPS FUNCTION AND LOWRANCE INTERFACE WORK. I have a Lowrance Carbon with the latest software (V.20.0) and my XI5 will not play nice with it. At one time it worked well and the auto pilot was nice. After one Lowrance update, I think it was 18.0 it would auto pilot to a waypoint and anchor there, that was a nice upgrade, but that was then and NOW there is currently some kind of glitch between Lowrance and MotorGuide. I am NOW so disappointed with MotorGuide I am on the list to get a Rohdan. Rohdan is currently at least 8 weeks behind on stock but I am not in a hurry and still using my MotorGuide (it still works great as a wireless trolling motor) until the Rohdan is available. My XI5 will NOT consistently or sometimes even at ALL work in anchor lock and yes I have replaced the GPS module and the control board. To even use it I have had to disconnect the gateway connection to the Lowrance completely. This is where the water may get muddy. Rohdan is currently working on their won Lowrance and Simrad interface. The newest Simrad software was released May 1st, and that was what Rohdan was needing to finish the interface. They are located in Sarasota Florida, answer the phone and e mail, stand behind there product and I am told by others in the know are the most accurate and reliable GPS assist trolling motor currently being made. Sorry if this was not helpful. I was the Number 1 Motorguide XI5 fan until about eight months ago. Now I am looking foward to running it over with my truck.

Dcathey, Is your motor the two stroke or the four stroke.

I have no experience with fiberglass repair or stuff like that, I leave that part to experts, but I know for sure there are materials out there "now" that would replace whats there and still be light weight and a lot stronger. My Pathfinder has that modern light stuff in it. There is some good info pinned in this forum about stuff like that.

I rigged and logged a bunch of time on a Stalker. It belonged to a friend I did a ton of fishing with back then in ENP, mostly Whitewater Bay. We used to run to Cane Patch and The Rookery Branch and I remember fuel was always a concern. I believe it held less than 20 gallons in the bow. I hung a new 90 hp Johnson on it. I remember it was difficult to Find a solid spot to mount the water separator. Had some kind of foam core board it a lot of places. It was very light and was pretty fast for back then. The one thing I remember being told by the guys at Bob Hewes on 125 street was it had PVC stringers, whatever that meant. It had a good ride for what it was and floated very shallow. Just because of the memory's, I would go oyster white..........just kidding. I would love to see it refurbed and on the water. For us back then it was our Cadillac. Good Luck with it and keep us posted!!!!

If you say so....................