geeviam

Thanks Matt! Been looking for a new Yamaha Pro Series (K-size) prop, ever since it was discontinued about 6 years ago. I got it for speed and fuel economy, and to reduce porpoising. The high rake blades and extra tip cup, generate plenty of bow lift!

Same here! 😁

IMO, a late model Redfisher 18 (flat sides) is powered right with a 150. However, an older Redfisher 18 (Lappy sides) would be better equipped with a 115.

That didn't take long! As Bear Claw said, in the movie Jeremiah Johnson... "Saw it, right off." Beautiful boat! The new owner found a gem!

Really enjoying watching the progress on this thread. I would be very proud to own any one of your Dad's projects. Amazing skills and craftsmanship! Thanks for sharing this Josh

Sounds good! I will contact you after work today Smilemaker. Thank you

I can't imagine why it wouldn't work with an older alternator, the same as a newer one. But you can contact Yandina by phone or email. They are very good about answering questions, and their customer support is great.

I'll post the results when it's all setup Dino. The cool thing about the Yandina TrollBridge is, you can save even more weight in the boat by not permanently installing a heavy and expensive 3-bank battery charger inside the boat. All you need is an inexpensive single battery charger that you connect to the starting battery, and the Yandina distributes the charge to all the other batteries automatically, as needed. If your engine run times are long enough, your batteries may get enough charge without the need for a battery charger (like with the Stealth system).

Yes Sir. Corners like a Ninja bike! Thanks Joe

I bought three ChargeX LiFePO4 batteries for my skiff. 12V 100AH (Group 31 size), 28 LBS. each. One for a cranking battery, and two for the 24V trolling motor. 1000 Cold Cranking Amps and 108 Usable Amp Hours DROP-IN REPLACEMENT Plug and Play for any application currently using a Lead Acid, AGM or Gel Battery Expensive, but with a good warranty, and they've been in business more than 10 years: Repair or Replace First 5 Years Repair or Pro Rate Life Time Spec sheet: https://www.lithiumion-batteries.com/uploads/files/16386/CX100-Data-Sheet.pdf Main website: https://www.lithiumion-batteries.com/ The battery charger you use with these batteries is VERY IMPORTANT. After some trial and error, I found the right one (the only one I trust) - the OptiMate TM-291 Lithium 4s Going to install the Yandina TrollBridge 12X24, to make it all as easy as possible to maintain.

Well said Joe. Great advice as always, Coach!

Matt, Frozen's advice sounds good to me. There are so many different opinions, and mixed information out there on whether you should go up or down in pitch when changing from aluminum to stainless. Even the performance bulletins from Yamaha defy physics sometimes. As many will say - picking the right size prop for your setup is a crap-shoot, and not likely to be just right on the first try. My take on it so far, is to start with the same pitch you're running in aluminum. Reason being: The polished SS blades leading edges are thinner for less drag. Yes there is more cupping, but that allows more trim to balance it out for higher RPM at WOT. Your highest RPMs are in the good range now, IMO I like the Michigan Wheel Apollo XHS 17 pitch (part # 993144, Hub Kit # 203), as an option to try on your rig. Inexpensive, and I like the geometry better than the Talon SS for grip in turns, and hole-shot with vented ports standard. Here are a couple Yamaha performance bulletins that I thought were questionable, on prop size - compared to your numbers: https://yamahaoutboards.com/en-us/home/outboards/v-max-sho/in-line-4/vf115/pb_xpr_h20bay_vf115la_2016-06-02_alm https://yamahaoutboards.com/en-us/home/outboards/v-max-sho/in-line-4/vf115/pb_g3b_20ccdlx_vf115la_2017-07-09_alm

It's starting to happen now. Seeing a lot of nearly-new boats (high-end flats skiffs) with low hours being listed for sale. Still at high prices though. With inflation hitting all-time highs, I doubt we will ever see sale prices come back down to what they were several years ago. The Fed is printing new funny munny so fast, we may be listing our boats for sale in a new global currency amount, before too long.

If I ever install another jack plate, the first thing I will do, before it ever touches salt water, is bond it to a zinc anode below the water line. The galvanic corrosion between the two dissimilar metals (S/S and Aluminum), can make a jack plate look old and ugly in a short amount of time. Just a suggestion.

Jamaican me thirsty!