geeviam

It's the fitting on top of the tank that the fuel hose (supply line to the motor) connects to. It's made with dissimilar metals (aluminum, stainless ball, spring and sleeve), so it's prone to corrosion in a salt water environment. Looks like this:

Could be a sticky anti-siphon valve on the fuel tank. When I took one off my tank to check it out, a while back, I may have accidentally punched out the ball and sleeve . Just for the heck of it, I reinstalled it as it was. The motor never ran better. Installed a manual fuel cutoff ball valve 8" down on the fuel line for safety, until a new ASV could be installed.

Found this. Maybe it will help Gus. From what I gather, your maximum recommended RPM is 5500. https://www.rubexprops.com/boat-propellers/rpm-range/?make=Yamaha

X2. I have heard great things about what Jack Foreman in Texas can do with a prop that needs grip. I would see if he's not too busy to tweak your prop Gus. Some more grip and lift would probably help with porpoising too.

Absolutely right Joe! I plan to fish those days. Hopefully, I won't need excuses, LOL! Thank you!!

None yet Matt. Planning to fish the flood tides this month. Was going to fish the marsh this past full moon, but couldn't pull it off. Can't wait!!

Balzout has a good reputation. I wanted a low profile mount that I could spin easily and quickly, to view from the bow. I just installed a Johnny Ray mount. It's on a firm rachet that spins 360 degrees with no knobs to adjust. Quick release, for storage with the slide lever on the front. Still new - still testing, but I like it so far. Corrosion-proof too - made of heavy duty nylon.

Recently purchased a Michigan Wheel Apollo XHS 3-blade, and getting good results with my setup. Grip in turns is equal to the Spitfire X7, but this prop is faster. Hole shot is impressive too. It's a vented prop, with a sharp leading edge, and enough cup for good all-around performance. The price is almost half what a Spitfire X7 costs, and the quality of the finish is as good or better. They make a 13-3/8 x 15p, part # 993143. You'll need a XHS hub kit # 208 to fit the yamaha (don't use a Merc Flo-Torq or Solas hub kit - they say they are compatible, but the XHS hub kit has the best fit

Not mine - just stumbled across it on CL: https://fortmyers.craigslist.org/lee/boa/d/punta-gorda-maverick-flats-boat/7325354300.html

Not mine... and first thought on a Craigslist ad should always be "Buyer Beware". Looks good though! https://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/boa/d/ocala-2013-maverick-18-hpx/7324325694.html

Here are some pics where the struts were mounted so they collapse at an angle when closed. Not sure if I would do it that way, but here is the support bracket needed to do it, if you went that route: https://www.liftsupportsdepot.com/qty-1-ball-stud-joint-10mm-3-8-3-hole-offset-bracket-s316-stainless/ You might not need the aluminum angle brackets when mounting this way if you used these ball stud mounts under the gutter: https://www.liftsupportsdepot.com/eh-ball-stud-joint-10mm-3-8-7-hole-mount-l-bracket-s316-stainless/

I was going to install the same thing on my 2017 RF 16, but sold it before I could get to it. Shopped for all the parts. You'll need a piece of 2" x 3" 6061 aluminum angle to mount under the rear gutter with the 90 degree turned up. Then you can mount the other components to it. Forgot which length shock/strut to buy, but obviously, you need to get one that fits inside the hatch - not just on the hatch lid, when the lid is closed. Links to suggested parts here - hope this helps: https://www.ebay.com/itm/312711507892 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MUTFT0/?coliid=I2HO1MQ8FBAMRU

NM, I saw on your other thread that you have a TM and lithium batteries in the console. Sounds like a great setup!

Yes it will help. Can't say it will totally eliminate the issue, but it's a step in the right direction. Do you have a trolling motor? If so, where are the batteries located?

Looking great DC! Everything done right! Worthy of a write-up or episode in Florida Sportsman "Dream Boat"