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Yamaha T&T Overhaul

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The Following is an outline for T&T units in general.

Yamaha service manual which I purchased covers the F200, LF200, F225 and LF225 4 stroke series OB's.

Have never rebuilt a T&T unit so we shall see how this one turns out.

All primary seals and bushings cost around

$200+ per unit. (original comment)

Yes, Yammi is PROUD of those lil rubber rings/seals, snap rings and plastic bushings.

Well, as I completely dis***embled the entire units the original rebuild $figure$ went straight out the window.

All cylinder caps had to be replaced, both tilt rods, blah, blah, blah.

Not just seals and nylon bushings.


#1 rule of re-building:

Mark "EVERYTHING" as you dis***emble.

Many years ago, the very first motorcycle engine I attempted to rebuild didn't turn out so well because I neglected to abide by this rule.

Just dis***embled the entire engine, threw everything into a box and the final out come wasn't good once re-***embled.

Once I got it re-***embled, we ended up dragging it down the street behind a friends 4x4 trying to get it to fire up.

Funny as heck now but really ticked me off then.

Moral of the story:

"You have to pay attention to the little Details"

Before you go out and buy seals, bushings, etc.,

"COMPLETELY" dis***emble the unit(s) entirely.

Thoroughly inspect each and every component to determine if the unit(s) are worthy of rebuilding.

If so, start a parts and tool list.

Just out of curiosity, I called one of our local Yamaha facilities, got quoted $1500 per unit for rebuild, OUCH!!!

This quote was for rebuild,

not remanufacturing the entire unit.

To DIY and replace these units, I have found such units for $1786 each, taxes, labor, materials, & tools not included.

This quote would have went above the cost of new units as it has taken many, many hours to break everything loose (Bottom paint & corrosion) without destroying them plus the cost of stripping the housings, priming and repainting them and installing all new parts/components.

So Here We Go...

Within the thread I have included notes of the "Do Not's" along with recommendations of procedure how I found it easiest to complete the overhaul.

Step 1:

Kill "ALL" power sources and disconnect the T&T motor harness/quick disconnect before tilting the motor up and engaging the service stand.


The manual instructs the technician to disconnect the T&T motor power supply last.

This will depend on what type of boat the OB'(s) are hanging off of.

Especially if there is twin OB's sitting side by side and you have to disconnect the power harness while you're upside down twisted like a pretzel.

Step 2:

Release pressure in unit by turning the

"Manual Release" bleeder/pressure screw located on the(Starboard) - right side of the T&T unit housing.

Turn the Manual Release screw counter clock wise approx. 1-1/2 full turns for the tilt ***embly to begin to release.


Step 3:

Raise motor manually and engage service stand/stop.

Step 4:

Remove Upper Shock mounting pin snap ring & pin.

Use a 1/2" radius piece of hardwood dowel rod to pound out shock pin.

PB Blaster or equivalent lubricator helps.


Label zip lock bags according to their location, (starboard - port) and place "ALL" components in their perspective - marked bags.

Step 5:

Compress Tilt shaft.

Step 6:

Turn T&T Manual Release screw clock wise to close system.

Strep 7:

Hang T&T unit by a rope or strap wherefore preventing unit from falling and causing damages,

Or from Breaking one of your toe(s).

Step 8:

Remove 3 of the 4 mounting bolts.

Socket Size: 14MM


Manual indicates there is only 1 #3 bolt on each side of the motor mounting brackets which needs to be removed for final T&T removal.


Called repeatedly inquiring about the accuracy of information and instructions within the manual but was re***ured it was indeed the correct manual and accurate.

OKAY, if you all say so.

When your dealing with bottom paint mopped on the units and mounting brackets.....

Step 9:

Wrap rags saturated in lacquer thinner around lower motor mounting bolts to beak down bottom paint.

Wipe as much away as possible.

Wire wheel bolt threads, tool pick calcium build up from threads, apply some PB Blaster, back nut out to the end of the bolt, and pound almost flush w/ transom w/ hammer and a piece of 2x4 therefore you won't damage the threads.

Remove nut completely and finish pounding bolt almost flush w/ transom.


NEVER, strike the end of a bolt with anything but a piece of wood and a mallet or something equally soft yet dense enough to get the job done without damaging the threads.


Manual doesn't mention or illustrate anything what so ever about the lower motor mount transom bolts & nuts requiring removal.



Step 10:

Remove last T&T mounting bolt.

Note: Be very careful removing these bolts by "hand" w/ a ratchet/socket or wrench as I have been informed they have a tendency to snap off/break.

If being stubborn, use PB Blaster and heat to remove.

Bolts and/or nuts may need to be worked back and forth to remove.

Be extremely careful not to overheat or you may damage interior O-Rings if not Completely rebuilding entire unit.

Take your time!!!

Step 11:

Remove entire unit.


Step 12:

Remove lower & upper fluid pipes.

Do not damage or loose these pipes as they are EXPENSIVE to replace new.



Step 13:

Screw plastic/rubber caps into fluid port holes.

These plastic/rubber caps can be purchased from Home Depot in the hardware section.

Haven't seen them any where else.


attempt to screw bolts or screw plugs into the port holes at this time.

Use the plastic/rubber plugs.

Screw them into the fluid lines fitting ports tightly.


Step 14:

Fab & install hardwood vise jaws to prevent from damaging T&T housing units or their perspective components.

Manual says to use plastic jaws.


Step 15:

Clamp or stabilize T&T unit.

Step 16:

Over Dose snap ring, pin and mounting hole w/ PB Blaster.

Step 17:

Remove Snap ring & mounting pin.

One of my snap rings eyelets totally rusted off so I cut a notch into the housing.

This can be accomplished with a Dremel and a cut off wheel.

Started out with 3/4 of a wheel to create a channel outside the snap ring.

Once you have a noticeable notch cut into the housing, grind/reduce the OD size of the cut off wheel to 1/4th the original size, this can be accomplished by grinding the wheel down on concrete wherefore allowing you to cut a smaller channel behind the snap ring, yet not cutting into the snap ring itself.

Tap a pick tool behind the ring and apply some pressure downward & inward wherefore allowing you to pry out w/ a small micro screw driver.


In General,

Do not use a punch when removing such pins as a punch will possibly cause the pin to swell making removal extremely hard or possibly impossible if flared too much and damaging the inner body of the cavity.

Use something as large as the hole permits spreading the impact over and through the entire pin.

Ideally, hardwood dowel rods.

These particular pins are large enough that one does not have to worry about the pins flaring from using a punch to remove but it's just a rule of thumb not to use punches when removing items of such a nature as they do indeed cause flaring of material when pounded on with hammers and punches.



Step 18:

Clean / Debur Snap Ring channel

A 90* pick tool with the tip ground to a flat head screw driver contour, length ways and parallel with the direction of the tool handle

is the ideal cleaning tool for the snap ring channel.

Tool tip needs to fit properly within the snap ring channel to prevent damage or excessive scoring.

A Dremel with a cut off wheel can be used to fabricate your modified pick tool.

It is always better and safer to clean any and all critical areas and channels such as this,

by hand if possible.

A Dremel with a br*** wire wheel can be used to further clean up the snap ring channel as a last resort.

Proceed with caution where using br*** wheel.

Yah, Yah, Yah,

I know, pic shows a steel wire wheel and that's what I used w/ "EXTREME" caution but don't recommend it.

Br*** is what should be used but didn't have any at time of cleaning/resurfacing.


Step 19:

Inspect channel and test fitness of Snap Ring for proper placement and retention.





Clamp off in vise.


OR, firmly to a table or work bench top.

Whatever gives you the most leverage while removing the cylinder screw caps.


Step 2:

Apply heat to the unit's housing and turn screw cap counter clock wise to remove.

If froze up, apply heat and a good dose of PB Blaster where the cap meets the cylinder housing.

Repeat 3 times and try removing cap again with Yamaha screw cap wrench.

If cap still won't budge, apply heat and remove cap with Pipe Wrench.


Yamaha cylinder screw caps have a anodized finish applied to them.

Once this anodized finish is breached or begins to corrode, the cap must be replaced.


Clamp screw cap in vise and gently knock out seal with screw driver while not scoring the interior walls of the screw cap as illustrated.



Clamp trim rod piston ***embly in vise.

Remove snap ring with ring pliers.

Remove piston ***embly adaptor from piston.


When removing snap ring apply pressure to the top of the trim piston adaptor to prevent it from flying off due to the spring underneath it.



Completely dis***emble Trim piston ***embly and lay off to the side in a chronological order.


Step 20:

Blow all screw and bolt holes out with compressed air.

Fill holes with oil, finger install and tighten tap by hand.

Install "T" handle and re-tap all holes and threads.

After the tap has been installed and your "sure" the tap is threading correctly, turn tap a few times w/ the "T" handle to start the process.

Once there is approximately 1/4th of the tap buried, you can use a battery operated drill w/ integrated clutch to finish tapping the existing threads in the bolt holes.

Make sure you only have the clutch engaged to the point of which it allows the tap to re-thread the existing threads.

This will speed the process up.

Slow & easy.

Flush holes to remove all particles.

Highly recommended that the bolts be bead blasted or wire brushed (by hand) with a detail brush and thoroughly cleaned to remove corrosion and/or calcium build up.

Even better to chase threads with a die after clean up.

Do you know Mr. Murphy???

I bead blasted all bolts, chemically washed them,

drilled holes in a piece of wood, installed all bolts and primed/painted them.


When ever starting a tap in a fine metric threading, it helps if you get your piece in front of you and you not on top of it.


By placing the tap as illustrated above and ever so gently start wobbling the tap back and worth while lightly screwing, the tap will seat itself within the threads.


Mounting Bolts

Tap Size: 10MM x 1.25


Fluid Pipe Port Fittings

Tap Size: 10MM x 1.0


T&T Motor & Reservoir Bolts Holes

Tap Size: 8mm x 1.25


Step 21:

Degrease and pressure wash.

Be careful not to blow the plastic plugs out of the fluid port holes.

Step 22:

Let dry & sand all surfaces w/ 320 sand paper & a dual action orbital sander.

By doing so, this will minimize time spent on bead blasting the units housings and keeping the majority of paint chips and other foreign material out of the blast media.

Make sure you wrap multiple layers of tape around the tilt shafts to protect while sanding the top coat and primer from the unit.

All it takes is 1 slip of the sander and you will be purchasing a new tilt shaft rod, $107 MSRP ea.


If you have an old set of cylinder screw cap, reinstall them in the tilt housing,

(this will work for the trim housing as well.

Take a water bottled cap and stick it in the rod port of the cap.

Hot glue the bottle cap completely around the entire outer edge to seal.

At this point of time you can safely sand or strip existing painted surfaces will aviation stripper.



Have a loaded water close by and ready just in case you get this nasty stuff on you.

Rinse off thoroughly with cool water.


Step 23:

Place housing unit in vise, remove all cylinder screw caps and dis***emble.

The first tilt unit only required a small amount of heat from a heat gun while the other unit required heat from a soldering torch, PB Blast, more heat and a little bit of brute force with a pipe wrench.

When having to resort to a pipe wrench take the unit out of the vise and firmly clamp down on a solid table top.

Once you apply heat, apply some PB Blaster allowing the solution to get down into the threads after the heat expands the metals.

If using a torch to heat housing it is highly recommended to wear leather, goat skin or any other type of gloves of this nature during heating and cylinder screw cap removal.

I elected to purchase all Yamaha Tilt & Trim wrenches/tools to dis***emble these units which can be purchased from SIMS Yamaha, or any other dealership that is willing to sell them to the public.

Be sure to order extras set pins for the cylinder screw cap tool.


Although these are tools designed for and recommended by Yamaha to use for proper dis***emble,

They do not guarantee you will not have to use a different type of tool and procedure to complete dis***embly.

The factory recommended tools are designed to remove or dis***emble units in good serviceable condition and ones which have been serviced on a regular, normal basis.

When I purchased my wrenches/tools the one on the left is not for this particular Tilt unit but got a discount for buying as a set.



Make sure you scribe on the back of the units individual housings there "Original" designation of removal with an engraver.

S=Starboard P=Port



Step 24:

Break the cylinder screw caps loose, unscrew, remove from vise, gently pull shaft and components out 1" or so and drain fluid from unit.

Don't think the fluid had any life left in it.


Yes, that's a clump of sludge which came out of the unit.

Everybody would be surprised how dirty or nasty the fluids get over the life of their operation when not changed and flushed.

IMO, the units should be flushed and refilled every 300-400 hrs.


Dis***embly of Tilt Piston ***embly

Place the piston in the removal tool as illustrated.


Close the piston removal tool and tape closed.


Clamp off in vise and dis***emble.

Make sure you lay out everything as it's removed from the Rod.


Mark "EVERYTHING" as you dis***emble.


Remove Cylinder Screw Cap Seals.

I placed the caps into a vise, took a small screw driver and tapped the seals inner steel ring inward.


Clamp off a pair of needle nosed vise grips as illustrated and roll the vise grips backwards applying an downward force removing the seal.


Inspect everything for corrosion/pitting/damages.

Replace as necessary.


Make sure you stuff rags into the cavities of the housing units to prevent blast media from getting into such areas or etching surfaces.


On A Side Note:

If, after inspection, it appears there is no signs of corrosion within the screw cap seal areas but the Pin holes for your cap removal tool have become damaged due to screw cap being frozen up then the cap can be save and reused as follows.

Take dimensions and make a template.

Make sure the finished template fits tool pins.


Clamp cap in vise, place template over perspective layout grid, indent pin locations with an automatic punch to prevent drill bit from wandering or traveling during fab.


Place on drill press, set depth stop according to measurements previously taken.

Pre drill pilot holes at the marked locations.


Change drill bit to a 3/16" bit, set depth again and bore out piloted holes.



Exterior of screw cap exposed to the environment should be top coated with a protective sealant of some nature.


Step 25:

Place in blasting cabinet and bead blast remaining paint, etc. from housings.

Step 26:

Remove and wash outside of housings thoroughly to remove all blast media, impurities.

Step 27:

Make sure all contaminates are removed from outside of housing units.


Upon dis***embly I came across something which had me scratching my head as how to handle the issue.

Removal of calcium build up embedded on the walls of the tilt lower mounting pin hole.

After a little research and asking a few individuals their opinion I ended up saturating the calcium build up with PB Blaster for 24 hr.'s and then clamped down the housings to the boat trailer and pressure washed/blasted the calcium and holes.

It didn't work!!!


Then I took my exacto knife and ever so gently, keeping the blade edge flat against the surface, cut and scraped most of the calcium out.

Then I took the gamble and once the unit housings where in the blast cabinet went ahead and lightly bead blasted the remaining calcium off the surfaces.


The only thing I had around which I could utilize for plugging and protecting the inner housing was good ole Wilson.


To have Wilson do his job properly and not get his hair in the painted cylinder rim I had to scalp him.

Cut away enough of Wilson's head so he can fit within the screw cap opening.

Make sure the 2 cut sides press together tightly keeping the paint and primer from entry & base support while priming and painting.


Step 28:

Prime surface w/ Zinc Chromate.

Let the primer flash and top coat with Yamaha paint.

Be sure to do your cut-in's first.

For the layman,

Spray all the little nocks, crevices and crannies first.

Light multiple coats.



This is what happens when you spray too heavy of a coat of anything,


you get into a hurry and the primer/coating didn't have enough flash/cure time.

Again, Take Your Time!!!


Multiple light medium coats of material is better than full wet coats.


Step 29:

After curing for about 3 days in warm weather, place unit housings in vise, re***emble w/ new seals, snap rings, bushings etc. as required.

2 coats primer & 3 coats paint took 3 days before they could be handle in a normal fashion and placed into the vise without marring up the paint.



Clamp unit in vise.

Place unit in vise.

Remove Trim to Tilt Fluid Pipe rubber plug.

Place a 8oz cup under Fluid Pipe Port.

Take a (17MM) wrench and break loose the T&T reservoir fill plug allowing fluids to drain from unit into the cup.

Remove all other fluid port plugs as well at this time.



Remove the T&T motor.


Be very careful not to lose the shaft connector which is sitting dead center of the pump.



Remove the T&T Fluid Reservoir and filters.


B e careful not to drop or loose the br*** p***age fitting within the reservoir.




Apply a generous coat of Aviation Coating Stripper.

Let stand for approx. 10-15 minutes and pressure wash unit thoroughly.


Be sure to remove all screw caps, rags, plugs, bolts, etc. from all p***ages and housings.

THOROUGHLY flush the entire unit inside and out.

Blow out p***ages and housings with compressed air.

Repeat if necessary.



Place in blasting cabinet and bead blast to a white frost.




Primed and Painted



After you have cleaned, prepped, primed and painted all cylinder housings, let dry for 3 days, place trim housing on table top with a clean towel under all components.


I can not express it enough (elaborate) that you don't want a single grain of dirt or sand to get into the

unit(s) during the entire process or your money and work will have been for nothing as it "will" damage the interior of the housing and components.

Since I bead blasted the interior through holes for the lower shock pin the bushings had approximately 1/64" play between the new bushings and bushing port.

Apply a small bead of 5200 around the interior flange lip of the bushings.

Install the bushings in the tilt housing.


(Make sure there is NO 5200 on the interior section of the bushings themselves).

Wipe away any excess 5200 around the bushings.

Position tilt housing in the trim housing.

Cleaned shock pin with 0000 steel wool.

Install shock pin, and place a block of wood, starboard or whatever under the tilt rod for support while the 5200 cures.



After the tilt unit has been installed with the 5200 and bushings, you will need to shim one side of the bushings for a snug fit.

After the 5200 has fully cured, remove shock pin.

Apply a full coat of Evinrude/Johnson marine grade triple guard grease to interior port of the housing where shock pin goes.

There is a small gap between the bushings once installed so I packed this void with grease.

Before installing the shock pin apply a thin layer of grease to the pin itself.

Reinstall the tilt housing and lower shock pin and snap ring.

Install the snap ring and spin it to confirm a proper fit and seating.





Installed the upper and lower fluid pipes, then took off to run some errands.

Once I got back I was cleaning up the work bench and started looking at the lower fluid pipe and ***embly.

Don't ask me why, but I did.

These are the little things you "MUST" pay attention to for a professional rebuild and for the unit to work properly as designed.

Additionally, if placed into service misaligned, water could very well get into the unit if the unit looses complete pressure.



Yep, misaligned/bent fluid pipe to the tilt housing.

So I compared it to the other fluid line from the port T&T unit.

The reason this is a major issue is because the end of the pipe is flared and needs to fit properly and correctly on the embossed plug fitting within the p***age port where the pipe fitting screws into.

BIG difference.


Totally jacked up.

Removed the fluid pipe and clamped off in the vise for some tweaking.

Once the screw end fitting freely spins the full length of the pipe to the first bend,

the pipe has been properly tweaked and straightened.

If you have painted the pipe don't worry about it,

you can always just re-spray.

Get down eye level with the fitting

(which you have vised off)

and pipe before starting to ever so slightly bending the pipe in the correct direction until corrected.




Place entire T&T unit in vise.

Remove the tilt rod and piston ***embly.

Fill one trim chamber with ATF Dexron 3 or higher grade ATF up to the lip under the screw cap threads.

Install the first trim rod and piston ***embly.

Do Not push rod and piston down.

Tighten cap to 115ft/lbs, per manual.

Repeat with other trim rod and piston ***embly.

Remove the T&T pump motor.

Fill housing to the upper lip.

Install new O-ring seal and (shaft connector).


When dis***embling these units "REMOVE" the shaft connector and secure in a safe place you will remember.

Those dang things are $33.00 and change ea., MSRP.

Turn connector with a screw drive to release air which may be trapped between the drive gears and replace motor and bolts.

Torque snug.

When torqueing bolts down on used or older units torque with caution as the threads have a tendency to strip when torqued to manual specs.

Torque snuggly but don't over torque.

Fill tilt housing with ATF to approx. 1/2" shy just under the cap threads.

Install tilt rod and piston ***embly.

Torque to 65 ft/lbs, per manual.



Sky Blue - - (+)

Light Green - (-)


Sky Blue - - (-)

Light Green - (+)

With the unit upright in the vise,

apply power to the motor alternately: +/- vs. -/+.

It will take several attempts to get the system bleed and primed.

This will bleed air out of the system.

It is sometimes required to apply pressure on the Tilt shaft Rod to start the units pump function.

Honestly, you will need more tools than the average person owns so don't think you can do this type of rebuild with a screw drive, vise and a pipe wrench because it won't happen.

Hope you enjoyed the venture.

Glad to have been able to share the experience and info with everybody.

Will be proof reading and adding additional info and pics which have not been posted within the thread for a "complete" informational & pictorial layout.


Entire project cost is right at $500 per unit for seals, components and materials.

Tools and equipment NOT INCLUDED.

Far cry less than new units for sure.

Got around to finally installing the units.

Was going to strip the mounting brackets but they really don't need it at this time.

When installing the units make sure you apply grease on the bolts or the bolt hole threads, or both.

Whatever blows your skirt up.

Everything works like new after an aggravating 8 hr.'s of continuously completing the bleeding process.

A little trick while bleeding the units after installation and before I finally got the units bleed out was shared with me from a life long friend of mine which owns his own Marine repair business.

The T&T unit(s) will make God awful groans and squealing sounds until All the air has been removed from the system.

When bleeding the unit(s), if they are hanging up towards the bottom, back out the manual release screw allowing the OB's to completely drop wherefore releasing internal pressure to relax and escape out of the fluid and unit.

Let sit for 5 minutes, close the manual release screw, trim and tilt engine up.

Remove reservoir fill bolt, check for presence of air and replace fill bolt but only screw in just enough allowing a few of the threads to catch.

Let sit another 5 minutes, tighten fill bolt, raise the units up and down 3 times and repeat process until the units are working properly.

Make sure the fluid is right at the screw threads

as air escapes during the process, the fluid will need to be topped of or at least checked after each attempt to bleed system.

I left the fill plug/bolt in the fluid reservoir cracked as far open as possible allowing any additional air which may have been trapped within the fluid sufficient time to escape out of the system.

Guess I had more air in the systems than originally thought.



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Great info Riptide!

I am guessing this is for a F250?

Yes, Yammi is PROUD of those lil rubber rings and plastic bushings.

Yes they are. I went from Merc to Yammi and still in shock every time I have to spend $50 on a $2 part.

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Riptide, please watch your mail. There's an old 1988 rusted out T&T unit from a 115 headed your way. I'm sending for a complete rebuild, thank you very much in advance.

To be clear, since I'm doing this for YOUR benefit, I'll just pay for the shipping back and forth. I wouldn't want these newly learned skills of yours to go to waste! Repetition is the key to retaining learning and all that.


Great thread - thanks for the pics, looking forward to watching the progress.

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Riptide, please watch your mail. There's an old 1988 rusted out T&T unit from a 115 headed your way. I'm sending for a complete rebuild, thank you very much in advance.

To be clear, since I'm doing this for YOUR benefit, I'll just pay for the shipping back and forth. I wouldn't want these newly learned skills of yours to go to waste! Repetition is the key to retaining learning and all that.


Great thread - thanks for the pics, looking forward to watching the progress.

Can always use another paper weight. ;)

Had to order a couple more of those funky Yammi wrenches today to continue the tear down process.

Could have went to my buddy's fab business and fabricated them but really don't have time to fool with it and once you get down to it,

it was actually cheaper to order.

On a side note,

More than happy to share the experience and knowledge.

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that's antifouling paint on those aluminum parts - that's a copper based paint.copper and aluminum will react in sea water - that causes a galvanic reaction - that white powder,it's aluminum oxide,the end result of corroded aluminum

remove that antifouling paint

most people from the north east,we "slip" our boats,meaning,they stay in the water from usually april,thru to December - antifouling paint is required

i'm currently searching for a slip for my big boat,i'm amazed at what people think is "expensive" - the slip in jersey cost me $3,200 april to November,much cheaper in florida

the convienience of having your boat in the water is huge - hop in and go !

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I'm amazed it wasn't worse to be honest, considering the motors are 2003 and more than likely have never had a major service such as pulling T&T units, blah, blah, blah.

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On ‎11‎/‎17‎/‎2015 at 6:26 PM, RipTide said:

Project completed!!!

One question. My T+T motor runs but the motor will not tilt up or down. Am I looking at a rebuild?


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If the motor is running but not trimming or tilting it can be assumed the pump within the housing is not operating and/or all internal seals bit the dust wherefore allowing fluid to by pass the internal seals resulting in non operation.

Did the tilt and trim stop all of a sudden as a whole or did one stop working before the other died?

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