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chasing904tail

Hewes Restoration

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Hey everyone,

Im pretty new to the restoration game but I wanted some input from all the experience out there.

Im picking up a '71 Hewes Tarpon Fisher from a buddy of mine. Its in pretty decent shape but its got some work to go until I get it where I want it. Does anyone have any advice as what to do, what to avoid, and where to go?

I appreciate the time!

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Wiring is my first priority for my reno's. Probably with the age of the boat and if it has never been done that is where I would start. With a rewire you can upgrade to circuit breakers instead of fuses and you can allow for additional accessories as you get into it.

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Wiring is my first priority for my reno's. Probably with the age of the boat and if it has never been done that is where I would start. With a rewire you can upgrade to circuit breakers instead of fuses and you can allow for additional accessories as you get into it.

This, and I would seriously consider the fuel tank and it's condition/location.

I've seen some serious time and effort put into cosmetics, wiring and so on to only find fuel in the bilge 6 months later.

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Considering it's a 71 & "ONLY" if you never plan on getting rid of it,

& if the stringer system has never been replaced, I would start by removing the cap, all the wooden & gl*** stringers, & anything else wooden in the hull (bulk heads, etc.), prep(grind) the interior of the hull down w/ 36 grit grinding disk, "Thoroughly" wash the interior of hull out w/ concentrated degreaser, pressure was, let dry, thoroughly wash substrate surfaces w/ acetone, gl*** in some closed cell foam stringers, bulk heads etc.

As for the transom, you will have to drill a few "VERY" small holes from the "Inside" of the transom to see if the wood is wet or deteriorated.

If not, grind around these areas, prep with acetone, re-gl*** & top coat w/ gel coat. Make sure that any final top coat of gel coat has a curing additive in it.

"If" the wood needs replaced, cut open the top of the transom (don't butcher it)remove wood, thoroughly chemically clean cavity & fill with marine grade porcelain transom filler.

Let fully cure according to specs, re-gl*** & top coat.

Run new snake tubes for wiring, re-glue cap, screw together.

If there isn't any pre-drilled hole under the rub rail areas drill some holes w/ a paddle bit large enough to insert the largest piece of hose it will accommodate without making "TOO" big of a hole where the rub rail won't cover it properly.

Get a few pieces of hose, some closed cell foam (read instructions) and pour the CC foam into a large funnel which should be attached to the hose.

Note:

Strong words of advice,

Add the foam in small portions at a time to avoid blowing out the sides of the hull.

Try to picture taking a 2 qt. paint bucket, mixing 8 oz.'s total CC foam, pour it into the bucket & once completely cured, you will have approx. 96 oz.'s of space taken up in the bucket.

Once this process has been completed, replace rub rail, seal rub rail, replace all wiring w/ marine grade tin coated copper stranded wiring, blue sea battery switch.

Personally, I would also replace "ALL" hull fittings & plumbing.

Wet sand hull w/ 1500 sand paper, buff out.

If a shine can not be obtained switch sand paper to a the next lower grit & repeat process until you find the correct grit.

If all else fails, re-gel coat the bottom or have it done.

If you can wet sand & buff final product find somebody who will shoot it for you.

This will save you a lot of money during the process.

As hot is it is out there this sounds like a winter project.

Last words of advice,

1) Wear the proper respirators & protective equipment such as jumpsuit, gloves,

eye protection, etc.

2)

"DO NOT USE RAZOR KNIVES & STRAIGHT EDGES TO CUT GL*** MATTING".

Go buy a good set of shear scissors for cut this it.

Good luck w/ project.

InjuredFinger1_zpsfd2b662c.jpg

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You did beautiful work, my friend.

What a skiff you resurrected !

Why was my post deleted? I saw one on craigslist and didn't know if it was the same one, that way I could see what it looked like before the work

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