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Getting rid of the fuse block - 96 Bayfisher 18

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I'm replacing the fuse block with a UPM breaker block (NOS Whaler stock), these are $95 at Marine Liquidators in Ft. Pierce, they have a box of them if you want one. I will relabel and that should be the end of the fuse block hassle. Mounts anywhere with 4 screws, see pics:

Chuck  😁

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I understand why you want to do it and I don't blame you at all, but I want to play devils advocate here.

  I to wanted to go breakers until I had somebody explained something to me that made complete sense. Breakers are not new to the boating industry and are usually used in large cruiser type applications away from the weather and moisture. On a flats boat there are not too many of those areas and if a breaker is not exercised it could trip and may not reset because of  of corrosion or mechanical failure. Sure you can bypass the breaker but you better hope what tripped it in the first place will not cause an overheat/electrical short condition that could lead to a fire. A fuse block has no mechanical parts to go bad along with a fuse, it is either good or not!

  I went all ATC fuses for easy visual inspection to see if it is blown or not and easy reading of the amperage. The AGC fuses, forget it! Can't read those dang things to save your life to know what amps it is.

  Just my 2 cents.   

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I understand your point of view but as a power plant QE, I'll trust a molded case circuit breaker (MCCB) over a fuse all the time. The cure is to always use a UR or UL MCCB and regularly (annually) exercise  your MCCB's. This panel also uses screwed connections and does not use spade slip-ons, that's a big plus.

Chuck  😁

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Molded cases are the way to go and since Whaler is using them one can only imagine that they are definitely marine grade high quality pieces. Agreed on the screw on connections rather than a spade, I wish they made all switches screw connections!

  Take some before and after pics, I can only imagine how much it is going to clean up the wiring! 

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I'm going to do some of it but I'm too big to get the bilge pump down in that hole through a 8" pie plate. The lions share will be done by St. Lucie Outboard by Bud and crew.

  • Replacing all the pumps
  • My switch panel is toast (literally from the sun and hack jobs previously performed), so I'm having a new switch panel made by GS Creations in Boca. I'm using new Contura II rockers with blue leds. I'll post a pic of it when I get it.

Chuck  😁

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I wasn't going to do a full rewire but plans change. It's going in tomorrow. I decided to go with a Blue Seas fuse block instead of the Whaler breaker panel - it's too heavy for the console door and I can't get low amperage breakers for it, I can be more precise with the blade fuse selection. Here's some pics of what I'm doing with the console access hinged door, see below. This setup should save my back from being a contortionist when I have to work in the console; the whole shebang will lift up and out for full access to the console innards and servicing the electrical.

Chuck 😁

 

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Here's what went back into the boat:

  1. New Johnson Pump 1100GPH bilge pump (turns out the livewell pumps are fine - the wiring was shot and that's why they weren't working). The guy that installed it is not a fan of that 8" pie plate bilge access.
  2. Blue Seas fuseblock installed on the front split console door - way EZ to work on and access. BTW, the old fuse block fuses were falling out of the sockets and were very corroded - yo guys should check yours.
  3. All new tinned wire front to back (did I say the wiring was shot?)
  4. New switch panel and rockers
  5. New forward cleat (I have no idea what happened to the original cleat)
  6. AGM trolling motor batteries (Sam's Club Duracell 27's)
  7. etc, etc

Chuck  😀

Here's some pics:

 

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