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Jorgerivadeneira

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Wet sand with very fine grit water paper, buffing compound and orbital buffer, been a while since I wore out two buffers so check with some of the boat repair places to see if they have newer products available on finish restoration, some of the folks on here may be able to give you advise on this, looks like the fighting yellow will come back from what I'm seeing in the photo. 

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Youtube different videos on wet sanding Gel coat.  Once properly wet sanded you can come back with three stages of compound and a buffer.  I prefer 3M products, but there are lots of good compounds and polishes. 

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Get 3m per fect all in one. They have a course medium and fine.. use a variable speed buffer with wool pad .. run it slow let the polish work. 

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I need to buff the crap out of it. I was buffing and it would just shine the oxidation. I feel like I need a really course compound to be able to get rid of that white oxidation and get to the yellow. Once I get to the yellow I can then buff with a fine compound and polish. It’s insane how thick the cost of oxidation is. 

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Jorge do a section, 400 Wet Sand/ 1000 Wet Sand/3-M Perfect It Heave Oxidation Compound/3-M Perfect It Medium or Fine to desired finish, Gelcoat while thicker than auto finishes is only so deep so don't over do it, figure out just how much to get the finish and color back and be patient it takes time could be an entire week end or two. Your desired finish will depend on what you put into it, what Honey B said on 3-M and on working the buffer works photo below is a 22 year old hull. Have Fun

HPIM0680.JPG

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23 hours ago, George Seither said:

Jorge do a section, 400 Wet Sand/ 1000 Wet Sand/3-M Perfect It Heave Oxidation Compound/3-M Perfect It Medium or Fine to desired finish, Gelcoat while thicker than auto finishes is only so deep so don't over do it, figure out just how much to get the finish and color back and be patient it takes time could be an entire week end or two. Your desired finish will depend on what you put into it, what Honey B said on 3-M and on working the buffer works photo below is a 22 year old hull. Have Fun

HPIM0680.JPG

That looks pretty awesome man. I was thinking about doing the wet sand but I think my hand will fall off if I do it by hand. I’m going to get some really heavy compound and see if that’ll do it. 

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1 hour ago, Jorgerivadeneira said:

That looks pretty awesome man. I was thinking about doing the wet sand but I think my hand will fall off if I do it by hand. I’m going to get some really heavy compound and see if that’ll do it. 

If you get an electric DA you can sand dry.  Start with 400 and then 600, 800, 1000, 1500.  You have to clean and replace the sanding pad often as it clogs much faster than wet, so by a bunch.   After its sanded move to the compounds George recommended.  DO NOT hand sand dry.  It will leave deep scratches even with fine paper.  Only hand sand very wet. 

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5 hours ago, Lap it Up said:

If you get an electric DA you can sand dry.  Start with 400 and then 600, 800, 1000, 1500.  You have to clean and replace the sanding pad often as it clogs much faster than wet, so by a bunch.   After its sanded move to the compounds George recommended.  DO NOT hand sand dry.  It will leave deep scratches even with fine paper.  Only hand sand very wet. 

As you can see from the picture, below the stickers it is fighting lady yellow and around them the boat is oxidized to white. I’m trying to get it back to that color. I was thinking about using an electric sander or a buffer with heavy heavy compound. Don’t know what way to go. 

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1 hour ago, Jorgerivadeneira said:

As you can see from the picture, below the stickers it is fighting lady yellow and around them the boat is oxidized to white. I’m trying to get it back to that color. I was thinking about using an electric sander or a buffer with heavy heavy compound. Don’t know what way to go. 

Its too oxidized for compound alone.  It will need to be sanded.  There are several good tutorials on the web.  It can be brought back with the right steps and patience. 

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47 minutes ago, Lap it Up said:

Its too oxidized for compound alone.  It will need to be sanded.  There are several good tutorials on the web.  It can be brought back with the right steps and patience. 

So you don’t think it can be brought back with some aggressive compound 

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Has anyone tried using marine 31 heavy cut oxidation cleaner? I’ve read good reviews on it. I’m still debating whether to dry sand it or not. I know for sure I do not want to do it by hand as that is going to take me hours and hours. I’m about to buy shurholds wet sander with the GFCI to do it that way. I know there’s no compound that’s going to take it off but maybe that marine 31 could. I’m not sure. 

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