smboudreaux Posted February 15, 2019 Report Share Posted February 15, 2019 I'm in the process of restoring a 98 hewes light tackle 20. Getting ready to tackle the wiring and panel. The wiring is a complete rat's nest. Looks like no one ever removed old wires, just added new ones. It's all coming out. New wires, pumps, switches etc. Looking through diagrams and schematics, in order to support the motor, no accessories, I will have to supply power from the fuse block to the starter and trim relays. Can some one confirm or correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smooth move Posted February 15, 2019 Report Share Posted February 15, 2019 i did my 02-2200 4 yrs ago and removed all wiring except those from the engine to instrument panel. all lights, pumps and electronics rewired. not as professional a job as i wanted it to be, but not too shabby and i know where every stinkin wire goes and how it's connected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triplec Posted February 15, 2019 Report Share Posted February 15, 2019 Sure can't answer the question having never rewired but this link may help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted February 15, 2019 Report Share Posted February 15, 2019 13 hours ago, smboudreaux said: I'm in the process of restoring a 98 hewes light tackle 20. Getting ready to tackle the wiring and panel. The wiring is a complete rat's nest. Looks like no one ever removed old wires, just added new ones. It's all coming out. New wires, pumps, switches etc. Looking through diagrams and schematics, in order to support the motor, no accessories, I will have to supply power from the fuse block to the starter and trim relays. Can some one confirm or correct? the LT and older Hewes' were similar except for hull design....I would suspect if you contact Terry Deal or Skip on the forum, they can provide a schematic on the older RF or LT. dc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCFD rtrd. Posted February 15, 2019 Report Share Posted February 15, 2019 Is that the way it's set-up now? Power to the starter comes from a fuse block? I'm not familiar with that boat, but sending power to the motor, through a fuse block doesn't sound correct. Do, you have a battery switch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigsnook35 Posted February 15, 2019 Report Share Posted February 15, 2019 You shouldn't have power ran through the fuse block for the starter. When I rewired mine I ran two wires from the battery switch to a double post mounted on the transom. Then the wires from the motor to the matching post. The switch is what lets the power go to the motor. And the motor wiring does everything under the cowling. You shouldn't have to run power to each of those individually. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted February 15, 2019 Report Share Posted February 15, 2019 A while back I posted various links to marine wiring etc. check this thread up top and you have all the basics.... MARINE WIRING AND OTHER GOOD STUFF DC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smboudreaux Posted February 18, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2019 On 2/15/2019 at 8:54 AM, SCFD rtrd. said: Is that the way it's set-up now? Power to the starter comes from a fuse block? I'm not familiar with that boat, but sending power to the motor, through a fuse block doesn't sound correct. Do, you have a battery switch? I do have a battery switch. it turns out the power to the starter come off the battery switch to the starter relay. like I said its a complete rats nest. I appreciate the help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smboudreaux Posted February 21, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2019 No turning back now. I pulled the positive off the fuse panel and the motor turned over and the trim worked so I started gutting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCFD rtrd. Posted February 21, 2019 Report Share Posted February 21, 2019 When you get done, everything will work perfectly and you will know where every wire goes. Try to use the color coded wire for each accessory. It's a pain to buy all different color coded wire, but you will be able to trace each wire from one end to the other. Looks like fun!! I admire your enthusiasm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drummer Posted February 21, 2019 Report Share Posted February 21, 2019 Consider adding a new Yamaha main wiring harness. It's simple and inexpensive. I did mine last year on the 2000 LT18 and now no more false overhearing alarms nor false low oil alarms, and the trim and tilt works regardless of how the engine is turned. On your other wiring, be sure to use marine grade wire. I learned that one a few years back. I have one main battery switch for the starting battery that turns it all on and off, except the bilge pump, which is hard-wired to the battery. Good luck. Fun project - your hands will heal up in a couple months... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smboudreaux Posted February 21, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2019 1 hour ago, SCFD rtrd. said: When you get done, everything will work perfectly and you will know where every wire goes. Try to use the color coded wire for each accessory. It's a pain to buy all different color coded wire, but you will be able to trace each wire from one end to the other. Looks like fun!! I admire your enthusiasm. Thanks man. I plan to use standard colors for the different circuits. New Wire Marines sells heat shrink labels so I plan to use those as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smboudreaux Posted February 21, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2019 1 hour ago, Drummer said: Consider adding a new Yamaha main wiring harness. It's simple and inexpensive. I did mine last year on the 2000 LT18 and now no more false overhearing alarms nor false low oil alarms, and the trim and tilt works regardless of how the engine is turned. On your other wiring, be sure to use marine grade wire. I learned that one a few years back. I have one main battery switch for the starting battery that turns it all on and off, except the bilge pump, which is hard-wired to the battery. Good luck. Fun project - your hands will heal up in a couple months... That's a good idea man. Its a mess under there. All that's left is the main engine harness and even that's been cut into and spliced so many times its scary to touch. Next time I get a chance I'll pop the console and see how much harness I have left. I might just cut it clean and rig it all new, with the existing harness . With a new main harness, is there one main plug on the motor side or do you replace from each connection and sendor? I'm liking this idea. I wish I would had ole boy do it when he put my new powerhead on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drummer Posted February 22, 2019 Report Share Posted February 22, 2019 12 hours ago, smboudreaux said: That's a good idea man. Its a mess under there. All that's left is the main engine harness and even that's been cut into and spliced so many times its scary to touch. Next time I get a chance I'll pop the console and see how much harness I have left. I might just cut it clean and rig it all new, with the existing harness . With a new main harness, is there one main plug on the motor side or do you replace from each connection and sendor? I'm liking this idea. I wish I would had ole boy do it when he put my new powerhead on One plug if memory serves. It was simple. The harness was only about $125. I gave up chasing open circuits. Just too many in unknown locations. Good Luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang190 Posted February 24, 2019 Report Share Posted February 24, 2019 My 2 cents,,,,,, find and use commercial marine switches. Don't skimp on this. They may not look as sexy as the ones used on rec. boats but they last. And being a open boat like yours you will appreciate it in a couple of years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smboudreaux Posted February 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2019 I went with the push button style switches from new wire marine. https://newwiremarine.com/product/resettable-push-button-bocatech/ waiting for all the pieces to come in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smboudreaux Posted February 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2019 Ok guys, getting deeper here. Looking into what's left of the main harness, turns out I have a mercury harness. So this brings up a couple questions. It doesn't appear that the motor side of the harness was cut into. Nothing obvious anyway. Just some extra wires thing cut into under the console. In order to replace the harness I'm assuming I need to determine which control box I have? In an effort to clean this up I'm considering ordering a new harness, control box, and start/ kill switch. From what I can find I'll need control box 704-48205-B1-00 and associated components. Not much information about compatible or replacement part numbers. I'm assuming if I mange to get the correct equipment it should should replace the connections on the various senders on the motor and everything under the console should just plug in? No splicing. Anything is appreciated guys. I'm not finding a great deal of info on this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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