John G Posted January 22, 2019 Report Share Posted January 22, 2019 Rabud install.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John G Posted January 22, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2019 Click on "install.pdf" at bottom of original post for text on parts needed and install instructions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BradM Posted January 22, 2019 Report Share Posted January 22, 2019 Great write up. It's about time someone took the time to do such a thing, especially as often as this subject comes up. Thank you for taking the time to document your efforts and sharing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John G Posted January 22, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2019 You are welcome, I thought the same thing, so wanted to get it out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HarleyG8r Posted January 29, 2019 Report Share Posted January 29, 2019 Thank you for the write up! Installed mine yesterday, following your exact instructions and parts list. Looking forward to not fishing with wet feet anymore! Also treated myself to some underwater lights since I was already drilling holes in my transom... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paid Up Posted May 10, 2019 Report Share Posted May 10, 2019 John - Great details - I just received my Rabuds and have a question: I assume you mounted the spacer to the hull and then attached the rabud with the small screws into the holes you taped, is this correct? Is there a reason you don't recommend attaching the scarcer and the rabid as one to the hull? Thanks Todd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paid Up Posted May 10, 2019 Report Share Posted May 10, 2019 John - Great details - I just received my Rabuds and have a question: I assume you mounted the spacer to the hull and then attached the rabud with the small screws into the holes you taped, is this correct? Is there a reason you don't recommend attaching the scarcer and the rabid as one to the hull? Thanks Todd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lap it Up Posted May 10, 2019 Report Share Posted May 10, 2019 Has anyone installed these on a late model 24? (2004). My buddy has a 2004 24 and it has very large brass colored thru hulls on the outside. I assume these would have to be removed to install rabuds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted May 10, 2019 Report Share Posted May 10, 2019 35 minutes ago, Lap it Up said: Has anyone installed these on a late model 24? (2004). My buddy has a 2004 24 and it has very large brass colored thru hulls on the outside. I assume these would have to be removed to install rabuds. I would check....you could probably make a larger overlay vs taking off the brass.....a simple router and starboard or a jig saw would work... The guyz at Dusky RABUD can probably cut you a custom size for a few $$$ more. dc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smilemaker Posted May 12, 2019 Report Share Posted May 12, 2019 Years ago I was one of the original posters on installing the spacers separately. The reason behind doing it separately is that you do not disturb the seal to the hull when you take the raybud off to clean it or change the rubber piece. The purpose of the space is to fit over the trim ring on the drain. Numerous ideas and knowledge was lost years ago when the forum was changed. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John G Posted May 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2019 On 5/10/2019 at 3:08 PM, Paid Up said: John - Great details - I just received my Rabuds and have a question: I assume you mounted the spacer to the hull and then attached the rabud with the small screws into the holes you taped, is this correct? Is there a reason you don't recommend attaching the scarcer and the rabid as one to the hull? Thanks Todd Sorry, just seeing this now. You want the housing with ball to be removable. The rubber seating surface will erode over time. Tapping the housing screws into the spacer make this possible. Spacer stays on the hull, you just remove housing and replace it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicecast Posted July 26, 2019 Report Share Posted July 26, 2019 I'm mounting a new set of Rabuds using the above instructions. Question on this part: "cut threads into the spacers with a die to accept #10-24 SS machine screws" What die do I use to create internal threading in the meat of the spacers? Don't have a lot of experience with dies. Thanks! EDIT: Any reason I can't just pre-drill and use 3/4" flat head metal screws into the spacers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brew1891 Posted July 27, 2019 Report Share Posted July 27, 2019 I just drilled the spacer, countersunk the hole, then used a flat head screw with 4200 so it sits below the mounting plane of the spacer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicecast Posted July 27, 2019 Report Share Posted July 27, 2019 Thanks. I was more asking about the other holes, that attach the plastic Rabud to the spacer. Do those have to be threaded with a tap to accept the 3/4" machine screw, or can I just use a 3/4" self tapping metal screw instead? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imsnookyrd Posted July 27, 2019 Report Share Posted July 27, 2019 It is best to use a tap so you can remove to clean if necessary. The sheet metal screws threads will not last as well. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brew1891 Posted July 27, 2019 Report Share Posted July 27, 2019 4 hours ago, nicecast said: Thanks. I was more asking about the other holes, that attach the plastic Rabud to the spacer. Do those have to be threaded with a tap to accept the 3/4" machine screw, or can I just use a 3/4" self tapping metal screw instead? I didn’t tap. Drill it small and it was fine. Been on there a couple years now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smilemaker Posted July 28, 2019 Report Share Posted July 28, 2019 As imsnookyrd said. The machine screws can be removed and will still hold well after many cycles. The cleaner you keep them the better they work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chief5130 Posted July 28, 2019 Report Share Posted July 28, 2019 Tapping the hole is better for a few reasons. It can be removed easily and does not put any stress on the fiberglass. The reason that you counter sink is to remove the gel coat so the sheet metal screw will not crack it. Non of that is necessary if you tap the hole. I find it much easier to tap that use sheet metal screws and I believe it to be stronger also. I no longer use sheet metal screws on my boat in either fiberglass or starboard. If you are going to thread the spacer separately from the hull that should be done prior to mounting so you get the threads all the way through, unless you have a bottoming tap. The perfect size drill for a 10-24 NC machine screw is a #25. If you do not have number drills, a 9/64th will work fine in fiberglass. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dale Nelson Posted July 31, 2019 Report Share Posted July 31, 2019 On 7/28/2019 at 7:04 PM, Chief5130 said: Tapping the hole is better for a few reasons. It can be removed easily and does not put any stress on the fiberglass. The reason that you counter sink is to remove the gel coat so the sheet metal screw will not crack it. Non of that is necessary if you tap the hole. I find it much easier to tap that use sheet metal screws and I believe it to be stronger also. I no longer use sheet metal screws on my boat in either fiberglass or starboard. If you are going to thread the spacer separately from the hull that should be done prior to mounting so you get the threads all the way through, unless you have a bottoming tap. The perfect size drill for a 10-24 NC machine screw is a #25. If you do not have number drills, a 9/64th will work fine in fiberglass. Good luck! Glad to see your back! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roy DeYoung Posted April 17, 2021 Report Share Posted April 17, 2021 On 1/22/2019 at 7:38 AM, John G said: Rabud install.pdfUnavailable Pdf is unavailable Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SouthernWake Posted April 19, 2021 Report Share Posted April 19, 2021 I tried the Rabuds but never could get the results I wanted. I ended up taking them off and using a size 11 rubber stopper in the floor drains. No water comes back in and it is easy to pull out and drain the floor should I need to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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