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geeviam

Improved Cheese Grater

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Mulligan, I take it that the two holes are the rear are the drain holes and vertical, not angled?

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Interesting that Skip or someone else from MBC has not weighed in on this subject due to the amount of posts and the subject. Troy gets a gold star, plastic vs ss thickness. Watch MBC is going to make a change, MAYBE, LOL

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Thanks Mulligan.  There's always a good mix of sound technical advice, experience, and laughs in your posts on this forum.  Like you, I feel that the feedback shared by us and others on this forum, is not meant to be anything other than helpful to other boat owners, and the manufacturer.  That's why MBG created this forum.  MBG is watching and listening here, and I agree... they are doing a great job of responding to customers' needs, introducing new products, trying new ideas, and improving the brand, to stay on the cutting edge in the industry.  The RF 16 is an awesome fishing platform for its length, and the wide beam makes it feel more like a 19 footer.  The improved cheese grater project did have the most positive effect on the stability of my boat.  But it doesn't get all the credit.  The combination of adding a stabilizer plate (Permatrim or Bob's TrueTracker) on the LU of the heavier 4-stroke Yamaha VF115, the flush lexan cheese grater on the sea chest, and the right prop, is what made my boat ride like a dream.  I love my RF 16 now.  :D

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The Bob’s True Tracker , changed the whole ride , on my sled , throughout the whole RPMrange .

Money well spent .

I was even able to keep my PT prop , for camping loads.

I have my Talon SS on order , and cannot wait to see the speedo turn 50!

🇺🇸☠️

 

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Just a tip for you guys running a Bob's plate on your outboard that worked out on my ole Bayfisher that had one.  Since the plate adds some drag and robs a bit of performance just clean up the fins on the underside.  I rounded the edges and made the leading edge more like a point.  Doing that I gained the topend I lost by having the plate on.

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I have decided to try my hand on a new and improved sea chest plate.  From all those that have posted in this thread, it seems the only Pathfinder to have been retrofitted so far was the 21 Fusion that linesider has mentioned, and seemingly,  the one that kicked off this entire great cheese grater debate.    I don't have stuff like table saws or routers.  Soooooo, I think I have located an online source that will custom cut a 1/4 inch thick piece of lexan for a very, very reasonable price.  I haven't priced the custom size cutting, but for the price they advertise for the material, I will probably get 2 cut.  Just in case!  When I get back to my boat, I am going to get an exact L x W measurement so that at most (in theory, at least), all that will be left is beveling the edges and drilling the holes. 

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13 minutes ago, JEM said:

I have decided to try my hand on a new and improved sea chest plate.  From all those that have posted in this thread, it seems the only Pathfinder to have been retrofitted so far was the 21 Fusion that linesider has mentioned, and seemingly,  the one that kicked off this entire great cheese grater debate.    I don't have stuff like table saws or routers.  Soooooo, I think I have located an online source that will custom cut a 1/4 inch thick piece of lexan for a very, very reasonable price.  I haven't priced the custom size cutting, but for the price they advertise for the material, I will probably get 2 cut.  Just in case!  When I get back to my boat, I am going to get an exact L x W measurement so that at most (in theory, at least), all that will be left is beveling the edges and drilling the holes. 

Let me know, maybe I’ll change mine out also. Let me know the cost.

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Its on my short list as well. But I dont know how much I would trust someone else to cut the lexon to the precision needed. Especially after reading geevs process to get it just right. 

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The advertised cost for a 12" x 24", 1/4" thick piece of lexan was like 13 bucks or so.   I'm thinking that I might get two plates out of that one piece.  I can't imagine a custom sizing to add that much to the price.  If I had the precise dimensions on me, I would go ahead and order it today.  I think I can get back to the boat Wednesday morning to get precise measurements. 

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Just a couple of suggestions some may want to think about. If going with the Lexan a local Glass shop should be able to supply and custom cut it for you. Also what would some say to using a Corian countertop type material. The impact strength might be higher compared to Lexan. Variety of colors too...…… for those that care. 

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2 minutes ago, beachbuggy said:

Just a couple of suggestions some may want to think about. If going with the Lexan a local Glass shop should be able to supply and custom cut it for you. Also what would some say to using a Corian countertop type material. The impact strength might be higher compared to Lexan. Variety of colors too...…… for those that care. 

I like the Corian idea!  Just a heads-up... I did not drill vertical (straight) holes, only angled holes to pickup the water to start with, on this new version of the 3/8" thick Lexan cheese grater plate.  I think it created a lot more pressure in the sea chest than I expected.  There are some tiny spider cracks around the screw heads.  This did not happen on the first generation lexan plate that had some pressure relief holes.  So my advice is, drill some vertical holes to equalize the pressure while under way.  The live well pump will be supplied with plenty of water that way as well.

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Thanks for the heads up Geevian, I'll have to check mine out.

I will check but I pretty sure I have some extra 3/8" Lexan that I can cut if some wants it.  I will say that after doing them for 2 boats it would be nearly impossible to just cut and bolt them on unless you scan the opening and CNC or something like that.  The chest has a curve on the inside which I'm guessing is going to be just slightly different from hull to hull so there is a lot of crawling under the boat, sand/trim, check again, repeat if you want an exact flush fit.  I guess you could just cut to the size of the ss grater and it would fit but you would have a slight gap around the outside.

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So, I remember earlier in the thread, a 1/4" piece of lexan was used.  But apparently, it is a 3/8" piece needed, at least for the Hewes boats.  I guess I will change and go with a 3/8" piece.

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A 1/4" might be the right one for yours.  On Lurem's we had to trim it down a blade width or so if I remember correctly. So his was about 1/4".

 

This is a picture of mine while working on it. The numbers are the depth of mine from the hull's running surface to the flat part where the old grater rested.

0250C2AC-67A4-4898-9A79-A06378336729.thumb.jpeg.5987189b25e08de0f4e95d462529010c.jpeg

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JEM, I have the tools you don't have. Let me know if you need something cut to size, and I can do that and drop it in the mail to you. We have a lot of plastic reps that we use, and I can probably get some pretty good pricing on this stuff. Right off the top of my head I know we source plastic from Alro, Redwood Plastics, Northern Plastics, and a handful of others. Has anyone looked at using UHMW?

You guys can use modeling clay or even play dough to make a negative of the pocket you're trying to fill, and then take measurements from that or shape to the mold you made. Just a thought. I'm still thinking this through for my boat (Pathfinder) and am considering carbon fiber.

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Those with the RF'ers... Did you take the boat off the trailer to do the work? Mine is sitting about 1/3 on the bunk.... Only reason I have not done mind yet.

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7 hours ago, VsteveV said:

Those with the RF'ers... Did you take the boat off the trailer to do the work? Mine is sitting about 1/3 on the bunk.... Only reason I have not done mind yet.

My trailer has only two bunks (under the stringers) and does not have a second set of bunks supporting the keel, so my sea chest was easy to get to and work on.  Lurem and others have a bunk covering part of the sea chest like yours, and I heard they had to raise the boat up off the bunks or temporarily remove the bunk that was in the way, to do the work.

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We used a floor jack and some pieces of wood to raise the right rear of the boat ever so slightly. It relieved the pressure on the bunk covering the sea chest. Take the lag bolts out of the wood bunk and move the bunk out of the way with a  small tap of a hammer. You have full access to the sea chest. We crawled under my boat a dozen times or more measuring and fitting the piece to make it the perfect size and fitment.

Be prepared for lots of head rushes from getting up and down! Haha

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Taking that bunk off looks like a PITA. The bolts on mine are pretty well rusted. Where did you place the wood when you raised it?. Someone suggested before to slide the boat back enough to expose the plate? 

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We just unscrew the lag bolts and pushed the wood to the side, did not remove the complete bunk.  If they are rusted some might break off so have a couple extra on hand, just saying from experience.

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we did not move the boat off the trailer. Just like Mulligan and I said above, move the bunk out of the way. We did not remove the bunk out from under the boat.

If you swing by Mulligans place he has a Plethora of J.I.C. (just in case) items at his place. Lag bolts being one of them! Thanks again, Rick! haha

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