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geeviam

Need jack plate help/advice

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I am currently at the ramp. Just got the boat on the trailer, and the atlas Jack Plate is stuck all the way up. The actuator will raise it but does not lower it. Thought it might be a bad switch, so I disconnected the leads and made contact directly. There's a light click but no movement. Only when I make contact on the upward lead. Any ideas? I hate to tow the boat all the way home with the JP all the way up. Thanks

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do You usually tow ur motor mostly down. I can’t help on the jackplate but you have to tow with it up then tuck the motor so the load is vertical . I think you would be fine . 

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Thanks, good thought.  I found a temporary fix.  Disconnected the leads in the back compartment near the Jack Plate, and touched them directly to positive and negative from the battery, and I was able to lower the JP. Thanks again

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Yeah the first direct contact was done on the wires close to the switch. The wires that worked were the ones on the other side of the relay, direct connection to the JP actuator. I guess the relay must be bad.

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5 hours ago, geeviam said:

Yeah the first direct contact was done on the wires close to the switch. The wires that worked were the ones on the other side of the relay, direct connection to the JP actuator. I guess the relay must be bad.

easy fix..just swap and go....I used to carry one on the water just in case.....5 min to change it out....call a mercury dealer and they should have the solenoid.....usually, bob's will have it to you next day....

As well, remember what the guys at bob's told me....blue sky above, green grass below,...meaning, cross the blue leads JP raises and the green, JP lowers...use a screwdriver with a heavy rubber handle or you get a bit of a jolt.....ask me how I know this :)

 

dc

 

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Geeviam,

i had a similar experience on my PF. I took it a lot farther than you did before I figured it all out. My problem turned out to be the bad red jumper wire between the solenoids. I now carry some precut and crimped wires in the tool bag. 

http://mbgforum.com/topic/6652-bob’s-jack-plate-pumpmotor-replacement/?tab=comments#comment-54771

Glad it all worked out!

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Thanks Guys.  I'll be adding those things to the spare parts kit.  I had recently installed a blinker-style Pro Trim switch on the steering column, so I automatically assumed it was the problem.  Disconnected leads and cut wires there first, trying to fix it.  Oh well, new lesson learned.  Thanks again for the help.

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On 10/25/2018 at 3:21 AM, Wanaflatsfish said:

easy fix..just swap and go....

Thanks for the advice DC.  It was not the switch at the console, or the fuse.  It's a bad relay (or connection at the relay).  Problem is... Atlas glues/seals the relays and wire connections into a box with an epoxy so you cannot easily swap out the relays with new ones at a cost of about $15 for a pair of relays.  Instead you must buy a whole new wiring harness from Atlas for about $170 plus shipping!  I've ordered two new 80 AMP relays with sockets, and going to cut apart the Atlas box to see the wiring sequence, and make socket assemblies that will make it easy to swap out relays in the future.  I'll post the results, and the wiring sequence here when it's done.

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On 10/26/2018 at 8:54 PM, geeviam said:

Thanks for the advice DC.  It was not the switch at the console, or the fuse.  It's a bad relay (or connection at the relay).  Problem is... Atlas glues/seals the relays and wire connections into a box with an epoxy so you cannot easily swap out the relays with new ones at a cost of about $15 for a pair of relays.  Instead you must buy a whole new wiring harness from Atlas for about $170 plus shipping!  I've ordered two new 80 AMP relays with sockets, and going to cut apart the Atlas box to see the wiring sequence, and make socket assemblies that will make it easy to swap out relays in the future.  I'll post the results, and the wiring sequence here when it's done.

Please keep me posted on your progress. Mine sticks up sometimes and usually I can trick it into going back down by bringing it up and immediately switching to the down position. 

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26 minutes ago, CG RYAN said:

Please keep me posted on your progress. Mine sticks up sometimes and usually I can trick it into going back down by bringing it up and immediately switching to the down position. 

Will do.  Parts are scheduled to arrive Tuesday.  Hope to have it done by the end of the week.

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On 10/26/2018 at 9:54 PM, geeviam said:

Thanks for the advice DC.  It was not the switch at the console, or the fuse.  It's a bad relay (or connection at the relay).  Problem is... Atlas glues/seals the relays and wire connections into a box with an epoxy so you cannot easily swap out the relays with new ones at a cost of about $15 for a pair of relays.  Instead you must buy a whole new wiring harness from Atlas for about $170 plus shipping!  I've ordered two new 80 AMP relays with sockets, and going to cut apart the Atlas box to see the wiring sequence, and make socket assemblies that will make it easy to swap out relays in the future.  I'll post the results, and the wiring sequence here when it's done.

I apologize...i mis read....i was referring to my older Bob's.

 

dc

 

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2 minutes ago, Wanaflatsfish said:

I apologize...i mis read....i was referring to my older Bob's.

 

dc

 

No apology necessary.  I appreciate the help and ideas.  Sounds like the Bob's JP is more "parts replacement friendly".

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The alternative worked out well.  One of the Atlas JP relays was faulty.  To repair it, you can buy a whole new JP wiring harness for $160 + shipping, which includes two relays (glued/sealed into a plastic box with the wire connections soldered to a PCB), and all new wiring to replace everything up to the switch on the console.  I did not want to be locked in to that solution every time a relay fails.  After disassembling the paired relay box to document the wiring sequence, I found some good quality relays (Temco) with matching female harness plugs on Ebay.  A set of four relays with matching harness was $13.50 including shipping.  I installed two on my existing wiring and have two left for spares to keep on the boat.  Now, if a relay fails, it can be easily swapped out in 2 minutes on the water instead of the many hours it takes to replace the whole harness at home.  The Ebay listing is here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-LOT-TEMCo-12-V-60-80-Amp-Bosch-Style-S-Relay-with-Harness-Socket-Automotive/371393151219?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Here are some pics of the relay, harness and the Atlas wiring color sequence.  I just matched the Atlas wire colors to the corresponding wires on the harness and used heat shrink butt connectors and AlumiConn 3-port connectors (awesome product - get at Lowes) to tie everything together.  Hope this helps.

 

3-Port-AlumiConn®-677.jpg

 

CN0171_01.jpg

 

 

 

Atlas_JP_relay_wiring2.jpg

Actual_temco_socket1.jpg

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Geevian, do you have  pic of the finished product (wiring connections), the color codes in the diagram don't seem to match the wire colors from the relays. 

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14 hours ago, SCFD rtrd. said:

Geevian, do you have  pic of the finished product (wiring connections), the color codes in the diagram don't seem to match the wire colors from the relays. 

The picture of the wiring in my boat wouldn't help much (not as pretty as other wiring jobs I've seen on this board), but here it is.  Also made a diagram matching the wire colors of the Atlas JP to the wire colors on the Temco harness socket.  I'm going to cover the seam between my relay and socket with waterproof electrical tape.  All other connections are sealed with heat shrink or dielectric gel.

 

 

 

 

Atlas_new_relays.jpg

Atlas_JP_relay_wiring3.jpg

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13 minutes ago, SCFD rtrd. said:

Thanks, that explains everything. Your wiring job looks good to me. 

Thanks.  I just uploaded a cleaner drawing.

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Wire job looks good to me plus if you ever have another faulty relay problem again in the future changing a relay would not end your day . Good job 👍 

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That Is a Great Ideal. Next time mine fails I am going this Route. I carry this Switch in the boat so when one relay fails I can quickly put it in line with the Deutsch connectors and use one rely for both up and down by flipping the switch. Just a save the day tool. I have already replaced one harness. I other problem is I have the older (2012) model and the motor is rusting. Hard to find a dealer with the correct Actuator, and they want a fortune for it. I Have not been able to find just the Parker motor. Maybe I should have a Bobs Machine Shop. They answer the phone and will deal directly with you. No need for a dealer. Their newer models are electric self contained, and every bit as good and I think better than TH Marines Atlas. Their replacement actuators are half the price.  By the way, I called TH Marine and their answer was  "the newer actuator ( plastic housing motor ) will not fit the older Jack Plate. Buy a New Jack Plate"  I Will. And This is the name it will have on it. See Third Pic.

logo.png

My Atlas Jack Plate Motor.jpg

20181115_111524.jpg

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Just now, jh141 said:

Hard to find a dealer with the correct Actuator, and they want a fortune for it. I Have not been able to find just the Parker motor

Have you tried to see if Arco has just the motor?  The build/sell all kinds for trim motors and the like.

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I have looked in their catalog. Did not call them. I will. I use them for trim and tilt motors. They are top notch.  TH Marine is now telling me I should be able to use the new actuator ( plastic Motor Housing) with a possible slight modification to accommodate the bolt holding the base of the actuator and the new actuators are available. They still cost about half of what a new jack plate does and that does not include shipping. 

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