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94 HEWES LT 20 OVERHAUL


RipTide

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Pic's were taken in the worst conditions possible.

In a main channel, outgoing tide, dingy water with loads of sea gr***, etc. obscuring the water visibility.

The cleaner the water is during a smooth sea setting the further the illumination projection casts the LED lighting beam.

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  • 10 months later...

Welp, just when you think you'll never have to mix another ounce of resin........

Purchased a Armstrong swim/boarding ladder and there was no way I was going to install on the starboard side of the transom as I've already installed everything an angler could possible need on that side.

Plus I wanted to counter balance any addition weight from additional installed equipment.

So, I ended up deciding to install the mounting bracket on the port side and boy oh boy,

Now I remember why I hated this rebuild Soooooo much.

Had to go with a deck mount because the ladder will be primarily used for climbing in the boat with scuba gear.

To be on the safe side I decided the bracket would need a heavy duty substrate and a backer plate to make it a permanent install without worries.

My cap is only approx. 1/8"-3/16" thick and has a foam core.

Again, had to think outside the box.

1%20Hole%20Lay%20Out_zps4bujfyum.jpg

4%20Release%20Well%20Glass%20Prep_zpsidb02h9w.jpg

2%20Foam%20Ground%20Out_zpsu5bmys0e.jpg

3%20Gunnel%20Cavity%20Ground%20Out_zpso2cpyocz.jpg

The gl*** backer plate will be gl***ed in and the aluminum backer plate will be bolted in.

5%20Plates%20Fabbed%20amp%20Bracket%20Lay%20Out_zpsp6kacjnw.jpg

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Finally got back out in that hideous heat to make some progress on this little project.

Had to dig ALOT more foam out to make room for the interior backer plate so it could freely be flipped up in position to be gl***ed in.

Removing the foam is the worse part of these little projects.

This is how far it's gotten.

When using aluminum for backer plates the aluminum should be primed and top coated or Powder coated to prevent oxidization.

This panel was sprayed with Self Etching Primer and a chemical resistant paint.

Deck%20Mount%20Installed_zpsqorb2uj4.jpg

6%20Mount%20Backer%20Plates%20Installed_zpscl3dbfkz.jpg

Didn't want a thick gl*** backer plate just incase it ever has to be opened up again so I formed up a mini form and laid out (2) layers of 1708 Bi-Axel gl*** matting and (1) 1.5oz. of gl*** matting for the interior core of the panel.

7%20Exterior%20Backer%20Plate%20Formed%20Up_zpssrgng2ey.jpg

Chopped gl*** and resin was mixed and applied by hand to the exterior cutout edge of the hole.

Holes were pre-drilled and a piece of wood wrapped in parchment paper was screwed in place to hold the panel until cured.

8%20Exterior%20Backer%20Panel%20Glassed%20In%201_zpsnervnytz.jpg

Excess gl*** was ground away.

A skim coat of thickened resin was floated over the entire area to get rid of any pockets.

9%20Exterior%20Glass%20Panel%202_zpsxkjvlz3p.jpg

(1) layer of 1.5 oz. matting was applied and a second layer of 17087 matting was applied as a final layer.

The air pocket was caused by a knuckle indent within the resin glaze. Grrr.

One of the biggest mistakes made by DIY's & gl*** guys is once the glaze is applied and floated out people have a tendency to want to make it perfect.

Work the glaze in to make sure all voids are filled in and,

"In (1) fluent motion run a wide drywall knife over the glaze and leave it alone until firm or cured."

10%20Interior%20Panel%20Glassed%20In_zpsj3lomrnb.jpg

Among other positive attributes about the Armstrong ladders, this particular ladder is easily removed from the mount for storage will under way.

They are also rated for 400 lb.'s and have a 3 year warranty.

Ladder%20Installed%201_zpsq1s4ocrp.jpg

Ladder%20Installed%202_zps0uz1u7w2.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

It could be a number of issues affecting your planing, performance and porpoising.

Anything from:

improper engine height,

improper propping,

improper load distributions,

(positioning of batteries or personal effects on outings).

To many variables to say it's just one thing.

That's part of the fun breaking in a new rig, figuring out how it "should" behave and handle.

Motor should be installed in second to last hole from top. (unless your have a JP).

Slap a good quality bow lifting prop on it and baby step it from there on until you find the correct combination for your setup.

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Will do. It's def not load distribution. Nothing really on or in the bow but trolling motor, and anchor. The trolling motor batteries are under the cc, all be it the front part of the cc, I'll go ahead and move them the foot or 2 back near the door of the cc. I know this has been an on going issue with the LT20.

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