RipTide Posted March 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 Thanks for the compliment but I'm RETIRED, from restoring boats that is. Had enough of this stuff, as soon as I finish the final rigging. This was not a typical rebuild. She'll be back on the water in 2 weeks. Then it's time to go fishing. :content: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnd Posted March 8, 2014 Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 Thank you for sharing the photos and detailed description of your efforts. This is WAY beyond anything I would attempt. Just an amazing effort and you have a beautiful vessel sir. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RipTide Posted March 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 Thanks Johnd, It was a love-hate affair. My retirement present to myself. Once again, thank you for the kind words. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RipTide Posted April 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2014 The project is 99% complete. Short of installing rub rail, inner deck trim, gunnel lights, the trolling batts & figuring out why my PP pump motor isn't engaging. Not a wiring issue, pump issue. When you hit the rocker switch the pump just clicks. No big deal, pull pump motor apart and check everything, again. Other than that, it's completed. Re-gl***ed the underside of the poling platform, fabricated & installed backer plates for the torpedo tubes, and installed the LED light tubes. The rest speaks for itself. 1st sea trial was on Monday, everything worked flawless with the exception of the PP. 2nd run on the water we cracked open the throttle. Definitely need a different prop. Currently running my old prop, 14-1/2" 4 blade, 17P. The math tells me I was having a 16% slippage. Will be installing a Rev 4 19 or 21 pitch prop, should do the trick of getting it in the RPM range where it's suppose to be. Will post night pics of the lights on my next evening outing. Many thanks to Ray at the factory for taking the time out to discuss various subjects during the entire 4 yr.'s of this project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squidmotion Posted April 1, 2014 Report Share Posted April 1, 2014 diggity. i like that light setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bilge rat Posted April 1, 2014 Report Share Posted April 1, 2014 The big screen TV fits the console nicely!!! Thanks for showing the journey. When you get it propped right we need a few good pics on the water at WOT. Have fun, you earned it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RipTide Posted April 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2014 The lights are high output sign module LEDs. Suppose to be good for 100,000 hr.'s. We'll see about that one. Each module has 3 individual LEDs. There's white and blue under the poling platform. Whites have 9 modules per tube equaling 27 LEDs. Blue has 8 modules per tube equaling 24 LEDs. 4 sets of the same light set up in blue are going in under the gunnels. There's also green LEDs in the release & bait well. Blue accent LEDs in the 2 small fore compartments. Eventually, I'll install some more lights in the large fore compartment and aft starboard stern compartment where the battery sits. As for the PP issue, it wasn't a faulty motor issue but a faulty Deutsch connector coming out of the relay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jettyrat3200 Posted April 1, 2014 Report Share Posted April 1, 2014 Are those the original pole holders under the gunnels? I would like to change mine out to those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RipTide Posted April 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2014 Yes, as far as I know they are. I did have to replace the bungy cords on them. Got the cord from West Marine. If you have access to a chop saw and drill press with some sanding drums you could very easily make them out of starboard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RipTide Posted April 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2014 Finally got ALL the lights installed & fired up. Interior Console LEDs for those night trips when a fuse blows. 3 sets of white LED tubes under the poling platform. And the deck lights with all the others. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squidmotion Posted April 3, 2014 Report Share Posted April 3, 2014 nice work. :cool: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little Bella Posted April 4, 2014 Report Share Posted April 4, 2014 Looking good! Love the GPS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bilge rat Posted April 4, 2014 Report Share Posted April 4, 2014 The light inside the console is an overlooked but essential addition. Even in the daytime it helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squidmotion Posted April 18, 2014 Report Share Posted April 18, 2014 get well soon RT! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RipTide Posted April 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2014 Thanks Squid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LT20MAXXX Posted May 9, 2014 Report Share Posted May 9, 2014 What rub rail did you go with? Need to replace rub rail on my 20 LT. Can you include a pic? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RipTide Posted June 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2014 I replaced the rub rail with the original style from MBC. Purchased it from Bourbor Plastics. http://www.rubrailsdirect.com/In_Stock_Flexible_and_Rigid.htm I know there has been previous discussions about installing RR and there is no short cuts or easy ways to do it if you want it installed correctly. Drill all the holes as you install and countersink the holes or you WILL chip & crack the gel coat underneath the rail. When installing, leave the RR coiled up in a circle, makes installation much easy. Be sure to seal the top and bottom of RR once installed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RipTide Posted June 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2014 Prop Testing Time. Boat: 35-40 gals fuel (2) group 31 AGM's (2) group 27 acid batts fully loaded and 400lb's of man meat aboard. First prop tested was a Mercury Rev 4 19P. Results: Hole Shot, 2-3 second drag upon acceleration w/ a top end of 5200 RPM @48.5MPH. When idling and then attempting hole shot the prop wouldn't break loose. Second prop tested: Mercury Rev 4 17P. Hole shot, on plane in 3 seconds. WOT results were: 6000 RPM @ 50MPH fully trimmed down. No hang ups. This prop has tremendous hole shot and mid range acceleration with a decent top end. The Rev 4 responded impressively within the 5000-6000 RPM range allowing me to pretty much play with it how ever I wished. Can't ask for more than that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted June 25, 2014 Report Share Posted June 25, 2014 I just re-read your thread...it's been a while.... One of the best restoration threads on the forum in a long time.... You truly are an artist and craftsman...hats off to you and all your hard work in bringing back to life a cl***ic. :thumbup: X10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RipTide Posted June 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2014 Thank you sir, nothing worth while happens over night. I'm glad I had the opportunity to share the venture with other forum members. Maybe MBC will incorporate some of my up grades to their rigs as available options. I'll be looking for my gratuity check Scott. LOL I use to tell my sub's: If you don't have time to do it correctly the first time then when will you have time to fix it? Meaning? Do it right the first time and be done with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squidmotion Posted June 25, 2014 Report Share Posted June 25, 2014 …..nothing worth while happens over night. ….. i'm gonna have to disagree with this one. hehee. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RipTide Posted June 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2014 Even that usually takes 18-21 years of molding, by then they are ready to conquer the world and stop listening to their elders and only God knows how much money to complete. I speak from experience, Raised 4, and still raising the youngest 2 at 21 & 24, but, as long as they make responsible decisions and live honorable lives I will always be there to help out my kids. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RipTide Posted July 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2014 2nd to last, final picture post. Will be building more underwater LEDs during the winter and will post results then. Every last item installed. High Output custom built underwater LEDs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachgun1 Posted July 3, 2014 Report Share Posted July 3, 2014 Nice!!! Very Nice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RipTide Posted July 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2014 Thanks Coach, I am extremely pleased with the results of the lights. I personally have seen the SeaBlaze X's installed and fired up. Minimum $300-$350+++, X 2 = $600-$700. Was not impressed. The light configurations maximum lighting output is brightest when 14volts DC are administered, (Maximum voltage rating). The above photo shots only had 11.7 volts DC, (per GPS) administered as the I forgot to charge the batteries before the outing and had numerous other accessories fired up during the photos being taken. Once the motor is fired up they reach their maximum potential output, OR one can install a DC to DC voltage amplifier to achieve a full continuous 14 volts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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