Waterman18 Posted September 8, 2018 Report Share Posted September 8, 2018 I have a 2008 22 te and need to reseal the hatches. I’ve seen previous posts where owners have used McMaster Carr but I’m trying to figure actual style , (pic attached) and height of the seal. Mine are so old and compressed I’m not sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miss Jazzy Posted September 9, 2018 Report Share Posted September 9, 2018 Just replaced mine. The front three hatches are a little bigger than the ones on the back. I can't remember the exact size but I measured carefully with a tape that reads in 1/16's. Then get the closest size. You will have to try and make the bubble part round again when measuring. Btw those are not the correct ones you have pictured. I'll see if I can post the correct ones. Use style A https://www.mcmaster.com/door-weatherstripping I found my order 3/16 edge x 5/8 wide for front 3/16 x 7/16 for back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishmanjj Posted September 9, 2018 Report Share Posted September 9, 2018 1 hour ago, Miss Jazzy said: Just replaced mine. The front three hatches are a little bigger than the ones on the back. I can't remember the exact size but I measured carefully with a tape that reads in 1/16's. Then get the closest size. You will have to try and make the bubble part round again when measuring. Btw those are not the correct ones you have pictured. I'll see if I can post the correct ones. Use style A https://www.mcmaster.com/door-weatherstripping I found my order 3/16 edge x 5/8 wide for front 3/16 x 7/16 for back What sealant did you use ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miss Jazzy Posted September 9, 2018 Report Share Posted September 9, 2018 No sealant, just push on. They kinda lock into place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackacre Posted September 11, 2018 Report Share Posted September 11, 2018 On 9/9/2018 at 5:21 PM, Miss Jazzy said: Just replaced mine. The front three hatches are a little bigger than the ones on the back. I can't remember the exact size but I measured carefully with a tape that reads in 1/16's. Then get the closest size. You will have to try and make the bubble part round again when measuring. Btw those are not the correct ones you have pictured. I'll see if I can post the correct ones. Use style A https://www.mcmaster.com/door-weatherstripping I found my order 3/16 edge x 5/8 wide for front 3/16 x 7/16 for back Jazzy how many feet did you order to redo all the hatches on a 22'? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miss Jazzy Posted September 11, 2018 Report Share Posted September 11, 2018 Since yours is a TE I would measure it yourself. The hatches are bigger on your boat than mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FROZEN Posted September 12, 2018 Report Share Posted September 12, 2018 Jazzy, I’m having a hard time finding the seals in the M/C catalog link you kindly provided. Any way you could give me a part number so I can get close to the right one? Thanks in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wthree3 Posted September 12, 2018 Report Share Posted September 12, 2018 A couple thing to consider before ordering. I replaced some of my seals a few years ago on my Master Angler and used type A from McMaster. Although the advertised dimensions matched the original seals, I found that the compressed height was not thick enough. The thickness of the top of the channel plus two times the bulb wall thickness was less than the original seal compressed height. Therefore it did not support the hatch lids at the correct height. Fixed it by putting foam backer rod inside the bulb which gave it enough compressed height to work. Also, in McMaster, notice that type A and others have an EDPM foam bulb and a vinyl rubber grip; two different materials. In my experience the bulb and the grip tend to separate anytime someone leans or pushes slightly on the seal. I am constantly super gluing sections of bulb to the grip. My original seals, and some of the other types listed in McMaster, have an EDPM bulb and grip. They are co-extruded so the bulb and grip will not separate. The top of the grip channel on the co-extruded types seem to be thicker which increases the compressed height. I've looked off and on over the years and still haven't found a seal as good as the originals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wthree3 Posted September 12, 2018 Report Share Posted September 12, 2018 Example part number 1120a322 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miss Jazzy Posted September 12, 2018 Report Share Posted September 12, 2018 19 hours ago, FROZEN said: Jazzy, I’m having a hard time finding the seals in the M/C catalog link you kindly provided. Any way you could give me a part number so I can get close to the right one? Thanks in advance! https://www.mcmaster.com/door-weatherstripping Click edge seals, then Water- and Weather-Resistant Hollow Foam Rubber Push-On Seals Then style A Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miss Jazzy Posted September 12, 2018 Report Share Posted September 12, 2018 I think these seals are more for keeping water out more than supporting the lids. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FROZEN Posted September 12, 2018 Report Share Posted September 12, 2018 2 hours ago, Miss Jazzy said: https://www.mcmaster.com/door-weatherstripping Click edge seals, then Water- and Weather-Resistant Hollow Foam Rubber Push-On Seals Then style A Got it now, thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
General disarray Posted September 27, 2018 Report Share Posted September 27, 2018 On 9/11/2018 at 9:38 PM, wthree3 said: A couple thing to consider before ordering. I replaced some of my seals a few years ago on my Master Angler and used type A from McMaster. Although the advertised dimensions matched the original seals, I found that the compressed height was not thick enough. The thickness of the top of the channel plus two times the bulb wall thickness was less than the original seal compressed height. Therefore it did not support the hatch lids at the correct height. Fixed it by putting foam backer rod inside the bulb which gave it enough compressed height to work. Also, in McMaster, notice that type A and others have an EDPM foam bulb and a vinyl rubber grip; two different materials. In my experience the bulb and the grip tend to separate anytime someone leans or pushes slightly on the seal. I am constantly super gluing sections of bulb to the grip. My original seals, and some of the other types listed in McMaster, have an EDPM bulb and grip. They are co-extruded so the bulb and grip will not separate. The top of the grip channel on the co-extruded types seem to be thicker which increases the compressed height. I've looked off and on over the years and still haven't found a seal as good as the originals. How did you feed the backer rod in? Even using the 5/8" the 1/4" backer rod seems like it would be difficult to feed it through with only and guessed 1/16" play Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wthree3 Posted September 27, 2018 Report Share Posted September 27, 2018 Stood on the boat, or a ladder, so that I could let the seal hang straight down. Let gravity and some jiggling help push the backer rod through. Wasn't too hard as I recall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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