BBO Posted July 22, 2018 Report Share Posted July 22, 2018 Recently purchased a 2001 2200V with a old vmax 225. Decided to repower the boat with a new Evinrude G2 175. Called maverick to confirm shaft length and they said 20 inch shaft. Vmax that was on there was 20 inches as well. Pick up the boat this week and the boat is caviating like crazy and is basically unusable. Bring the boat back and they drop it down to the lowest hole and it improved a little but it’s still cavitating. I owned a lot of boats and cannot seem to come up with a solution for this. The only way the engine will get traction is with the engine fully down and cannot use any tilt without cavitation. Has anyone had issues like this with the 2200v ? Or any suggestions that might help ? Current Prop is a Rebel 3 Blade 15 1/4 x 19. Thanks , Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoneyB Posted July 22, 2018 Report Share Posted July 22, 2018 Do you have a set back? That would help I think. I do not know anything about your prop but you might want to try a 4 balde or some of the three blades that are proven to hold in light water . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JEM Posted July 22, 2018 Report Share Posted July 22, 2018 Not familiar with a Rebel prop, but a Power Tech prop will work with Yammy motors to stop the ventilation. I suggest checking in with Marcus at Power Tech to see what they can recommend. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishmanjj Posted July 22, 2018 Report Share Posted July 22, 2018 JEM is correct....either write Funky Monkey on this forum or call Power Tech Props and ask for Marcus. I will say that my 2200XL cavitated bad with 3 blade props....Marcus recommended the OFX4 ( four blades ) and It works great ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBO Posted July 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2018 Thanks for the help guys. No set back. Engine is directly on transom with no jack plate. Very frustrating. Going to give Marcus a call today and hopefully the 4 blade helps. Any other suggestions would be appreciated. Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JEM Posted July 23, 2018 Report Share Posted July 23, 2018 1 hour ago, BBO said: Thanks for the help guys. No set back. Engine is directly on transom with no jack plate. Very frustrating. Going to give Marcus a call today and hopefully the 4 blade helps. Any other suggestions would be appreciated. Jamie It doesn't have to be a 4 blade. I have a jack plate on my 2200V with a Yamaha 225 SHO. I am spinning a PT OFX3, 19" prop, and I couldn't make it ventilate if I tried. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lurem Posted July 23, 2018 Report Share Posted July 23, 2018 I would think it would be a prop issue. /some props ventilate worse than others when trimming the engine. I know on my boat the Powertech SCD model only works when it is trimmed all the way down. one bump of the trim button and it blows out. Ask the installing dealer if you try a different prop configuration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoneyB Posted July 23, 2018 Report Share Posted July 23, 2018 As I kinda said up there before you can likely find a prop that runs well on the set up you have. But you will never have a better excuse to buy a 6 inch jack plate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBO Posted July 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2018 Thanks for all the suggestions everyone. I have a Power tech prop on the way. I hoping this might help resolve the issue. If not I might have to look at jack plates. Cheers, Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBO Posted July 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2018 Here's a few pictures of the new etec mounted. To me something still doesn't seem right. It appears that the cavitation plate is still hitting higher then it should. The Yamaha 20 inch shaft appeared to sit a few inches lower. Is that possible I though it was a standard measurement. Hopefully the new prop solves the issue. Going to have a jack plate quoted today as well. Jamie 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishmanjj Posted July 25, 2018 Report Share Posted July 25, 2018 Nice set-up ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JEM Posted July 25, 2018 Report Share Posted July 25, 2018 With the engine set to the lowest position, I am willing to bet the right PT prop will stop the ventilation. Your anti ventilation plate looks about in the same position as mine, relative to the pocket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBO Posted July 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2018 28 minutes ago, JEM said: With the engine set to the lowest position, I am willing to bet the right PT prop will stop the ventilation. Your anti ventilation plate looks about in the same position as mine, relative to the pocket. Jem, Thanks for the input. I hope it does. It is currently at the lowest hole. Is your jack plate a 6 inch setback ? Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoneyB Posted July 25, 2018 Report Share Posted July 25, 2018 I can’t tell much from the pictures except those Engines look pretty dang cool. I suppose your boat has a pocket in the back to allow water to come up and is not a v all the way to the stern 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JEM Posted July 25, 2018 Report Share Posted July 25, 2018 12 minutes ago, BBO said: Jem, Thanks for the input. I hope it does. It is currently at the lowest hole. Is your jack plate a 6 inch setback ? Jamie Yes, it is an Atlas 6" jack plate. Not sure which prop Marcus recommended, but my experience with aggressively raked PT props (3 or 4 blade) is that you can't make them ventilate.......even in the tightest of turns! You just about have to trim the prop out of the water to catch air! Good luck, and let us know how it turns out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geeks2you Posted August 3, 2018 Report Share Posted August 3, 2018 I had the same issue with the cavitation and total lack of steering control. I swapped to the PT OFX4 model recommended by PT engineering and it is a completely different boat. Jumps out of the water and can throw you back when you punch the throttle and corners perfectly. I had my prop ported as well for my yammy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBO Posted August 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2018 Update. Tried the new props from PT. The first one had to much pitch so had to return it for less pitch model. The engine is so much better now than before. However I still feel its not quite right. Flat water it runs fine but when it gets choppy you can hear the prop starting to release. The other issue is with the trim tabs maxed out I cannot get the bow to hold down in a head sea. Still not perfect..... Maybe ill try some longer actuators. Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lurem Posted August 24, 2018 Report Share Posted August 24, 2018 BBO, In your pictures (may be the angle you took them too) but it looks like they can be tuned for better performance. before trying a longer actuator go to the LENCO site and read the installation page. Your blade should be 3/8" from the bottom of the hull at the hinge and 5/8" inch (9" tab) at the rear or 3/4" on a 12" tab when properly set up. By checking and setting the proper height settings you may not have to buy longer actuators only adjust them. Worth a shot to measure them before you spend money. read the link below to make sure of which style you have and which measurement pertains to your tab. http://www.lencomarine.com/index.php/products/trim-tabs/standard-mount Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikewake Posted July 4, 2020 Report Share Posted July 4, 2020 On 8/24/2018 at 2:49 PM, BBO said: Update. Tried the new props from PT. The first one had to much pitch so had to return it for less pitch model. The engine is so much better now than before. However I still feel its not quite right. Flat water it runs fine but when it gets choppy you can hear the prop starting to release. The other issue is with the trim tabs maxed out I cannot get the bow to hold down in a head sea. Still not perfect..... Maybe ill try some longer actuators. Jamie Hey Jamie, Everyone,.... Ive been digging through these forums and realized what boat i was looking at and recognized your name... Did you get anywhere else with this? I am in the same boat and struggling on what shaft size i should go with on my re-power. Currently running a '04 2200v with a Yamaha F150 20" shaft. The boat had a power tech 3 blade 19 bitch on it when I bought it and it was really bad on the cavitation with any trim or in a turn. I did the research and landed on the PT OXF 4 blade at 17p and ran it on the boat for like a week before installing a jackplate. The boat ran pretty good and had way better bite. Once I Installed the jackplate the boat was back to caveating a bit and Im figuring out it is because the jackplate introduces an additional 2.5" of rise in the lowest setting vs being mounted directly to transom... with everything mounted as low as possible. I dont seem to see anyone talking about it, but this has to be a common issue when people add jackplate after the fact. Had the boat been ordered with one from the start the transom would have been drilled lower to offset the built in rise and get the 20" shaft where it needs to be. So just curious if you still have that G2 on there and if you are now just running the new prop and living with it, or if you installed that jackplate and are experiencing the same thing I am now. Its been suggested to me to keep my jackplate and just order the new motor in a 25" shaft and use the adjustment holes on the jackplate and on the motor to get it dialed in. Seems like it would work but I would hate to get stuck with a 25" shaft if I decide to nix the jackplate. Also would be concerned about stress on the transom and overall weight of all the stuff ive got back there already and the new motor. would also love to hear from anyone else who has added a jackplate after the fact and run a 20" shaft. Heres details on my setup: -2004 Pathfinder 2200v -2004 Yamaha F150 20" -(2) power pole blades mounted to transom -Atlas 4" setback Jackplate -Everything mounted as low as possible. Cavitation plate slightly bellow the the top of the pocket (not keel) Thanks in advance for any advice! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fin-addict Posted July 4, 2020 Report Share Posted July 4, 2020 Sorry your having such problems. I’m running a 03’ 2200v with orig 150 vmax hpdi, 19 prop and runs as smooth as can be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bamaskeet Posted October 2, 2020 Report Share Posted October 2, 2020 I had a similar issue when I installed a 4 or 6” jackplate. I added a aluminum 2” spacer which helped a lot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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