Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
leftcoastangler

Engine rigging

Recommended Posts

I had a brand new VF90LA (SHO 90) engine rigged on my 1993 16ft. Hewes Bonefisher.  I was afraid of this going into it, but I have no clearance to fully trim and tilt my engine.  Basically, I can't get my cowling off without removing the poling platform.  Don't even get me started on the individual who did all of the rigging work or how bad of a job he did (that's another post), but I'll attach pics to show you how it's currently mounted.  The boat came with a Baystar hydraulic steering system when I bought the boat.  The guy who rigged it recently put it on incorrectly and/or maybe it just doesn't fit in that area all together.  Even if I could trim the engine all the way up, the cylinder is too close the the corner of the splash well that it would rub and chip at the boat every time it's trimmed.  

I'd like to know if anyone on here has a 4 stroke motor, 90 or bigger, on their lappy and if they were able to get clearance while still having the original poling platform on, if they had to modify the platform, or just get rid of it all together.  

Also, do you have hydraulic steering on your setup and which model/size do you have?

I'm primarily using this as a fishing boat and I'd like to be able to pole off the platform, but it's not going to be my every day way of fishing.  Eventually a trolling motor will be up on the bow.  I kept the original platform because I wanted to maintain the original look of the boat, but i'm not too sure it'll work now.  I know I can have one custom made for around $1,000 or possibly get the current platform extended, but that might affect my ability to fit the boat in my garage.  Eventually i'm just gonna do whatever I have to do, but I'm just seeing if the current platform will work if the engine is mounted lower.

I have so many other problems happening as a result of terrible work by the person I used, but this is now step one in terms of picking up the pieces.  

Any constructive ideas or advice would really be appreciated.  Thanks.

 

IMG_4079.jpg

IMG_3970.jpg

IMG_4081.jpg

IMG_4078.jpg

IMG_4082.jpg

IMG_4080.jpg

IMG_4083.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Lappys weren't designed around hydraulic steering.  Either add some set back to clear the transom or you need to have a glass guy notch the splashwell.  There used to be pics on this forum of guys that have done the splashwell mod.  As far as cowling clearance... You will either have to run no platform or have a taller one fabricated.  These are some of the pains of having newer power on an old design.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good news is they left plenty of slack in the cables to work with!xD sorry.  I have seen as Lap it up mentioned, the notched splashwell.  I am not sure how it will run but looks like there is room to lower the motor a few holes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, mulligan said:

Good news is they left plenty of slack in the cables to work with!xD sorry.  I have seen as Lap it up mentioned, the notched splashwell.  I am not sure how it will run but looks like there is room to lower the motor a few holes.

Right?!  On top of my issues with clearance and so on, the rigging this guy did for me was obviously a total joke.  Too much to explain here, but I actually had to pay this bum for that work.  It was all I could do to get my boat away from him.  You guys would really beat me up if you saw his wiring around the rest of the boat. Maybe I’ll share on my “restore” thread when there’s actually a silver lining to this story.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×