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wrhatt

2200V position on trailer

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I recently purchased a 2000 Pathfinder 2200V with a 150 Yamaha on a single axle aluminum trailer. With the boat loaded on the trailer there is approximately 4 inches on the rear the boat that is not supported by the bunkers. I if I push the boat back on the trailer to lighten the tongue weight I will have more of the boat hanging past the bunkers. Is there a maximum distance that the rear of the boat can overhang the bunkers unsupported? Also is anyone still making the lids that are to the right and left forward of the console. Thank you.

 

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What type trailer? Might be wrong one for your rig

Mine was a little over and I moved the winch post forward a couple inches.

There is a nice trailer for your boat in the "For Sale" section

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17 hours ago, wrhatt said:

4 inches on the rear the boat that is not supported by the bunkers

you should be able to move it forward....4" is probably a little bit too much overhang....2" is ok, but, 4" is probably a bit much....post some pics.

 

dc

 

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1 hour ago, General disarray said:

My bunks meet the transom exactly. Now the bunks hang back from the frame about 12” or so but 100% of the boat is supported 

that is the way it should be or you can develop  a hook in the transom, same for boat lifts.

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Thank you for the reply's. I can't go forward with the boat on the trailer as the tongue weight is already at 300lbs (measured on a scale). It's all I can do to lift it when I have to jostle the trailer around. That is why I want to go back on the trailer to lighten the tongue weight. I think I will take the boat off the trailer and move the bunks back so the transom is fully supported. If I may also ask, is the single axle strong enough to support my rig? The previous owner says it came with a single axle but most photos I see of a 2200V Pathfinder, they are on tandem axle trailers. 

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1 hour ago, wrhatt said:

Thank you for the reply's. I can't go forward with the boat on the trailer as the tongue weight is already at 300lbs (measured on a scale). It's all I can do to lift it when I have to jostle the trailer around. That is why I want to go back on the trailer to lighten the tongue weight. I think I will take the boat off the trailer and move the bunks back so the transom is fully supported. If I may also ask, is the single axle strong enough to support my rig? The previous owner says it came with a single axle but most photos I see of a 2200V Pathfinder, they are on tandem axle trailers. 

You can get one that does however a tandem will pull and handle MUCH better.

If if you don’t pull far you’re fine if you’re trailering long distances it would be nicer

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12 hours ago, General disarray said:

You can get one that does however a tandem will pull and handle MUCH better.

If if you don’t pull far you’re fine if you’re trailering long distances it would be nicer

agree x2. tandem much better for that rig. I have had chances to by single but waiting for tandem for .longer hauls.

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13 hours ago, wrhatt said:

If I may also ask, is the single axle strong enough to support my rig? The previous owner says it came with a single axle but most photos I see of a 2200V Pathfinder, they are on tandem axle trailers. 

I have the same trailer and my hull is close to the same as yours,21RF.  I know the previous owner had a blowout and I had one within a month of owning it.  Yes it can work as is.  If you want to keep it a single axle you can beef up the axle and tires to help out, I added another axle to be on the safe side.  A standard 3500# trailer is close to the max with a pathfinder.

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If it helps, the trailer I have is the a2244b only I dont have brakes. http://www.continentaltrailers.com/aluminum-a.htm

It has 2 #3500 lb axles and to give you some idea of the boat positioning the back of the boat is about 12-24" off the back of the trailer with the helm and leaning post directly over the axles. The bunks extend back to match the transom perfectly - perfect to the point that the edge of the bunk touches the leading edge of my trim tabs.

Then the bunks left to right only have about 1/2" of TOTAL play left and right between the strakes.

I am only telling you all this because I think you will be able to tell if the trailer is setup for the boat or not. If its not I'd buy a new one then sell the one thats currently under it. To do it right you would be looking at about $3500-4000 for a decent aluminum tandem with stainless hardware. If you are towing any major distance the comfort of knowing you have something solid under it that you dont have to worry about is worth the money itself. 

 

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Shouldn't really overhang, how about longer bunks? If a new trailer is out of the question.

On the front rod locker\storage, a few folks are doing what's shown in the picture. I'm doing at soon as I find some time... bought the stuff just got get to work on making them 

DSCN0011.jpg

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Yes, what is it made of and what are the instructions for making it? And thank you all for the trailer suggestions. Bill.

 

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Hey, that's my boat in the pic.  I made them from 3/4" starboard.  I took the upholstery off and clamped the existing to the starboard and used a router to trim.  Really an easy upgrade.

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On 6/12/2018 at 8:19 AM, mulligan said:

A standard 3500# trailer is close to the max with a pathfinder.

Blow out central.....I was sold an AMERATRAIL Single with the above when I bought my Pathfinder back in 2005...one of the first with the AT's....3 blowouts later in two years....I took off the axel and replaced it with a 5200 lb, never had another....went with MAXXIS "D" tires - the ones on the AT were some Chinese make....and I even changed to Carlises....didn't stop it.

I contacted both MBC and Ameratrail on the issue and was not reimbursed....it should have never been put on this type of trailer given the situation....lesson learned by me.......Conocean....one of the reasons I'm not an AT fan :)

DC

 

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11 minutes ago, fin-addict said:

a cont. trailer for that boat will run $2700. out the door.

Trailers must be cheap down there.

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I would move the the boat forward 3 inches.   What's your issue with having over 300lbs. of tongue weight?

Trailer tongue weight should be 10-15% of the gross weight over your trailer.  Your 22 and trailer is probably 4000 lb. loaded with fuel and tackle, if not more.  So. your tongue weight should be 400-600 lb.

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On 6/13/2018 at 5:07 AM, imsnookyrd said:

Hey, that's my boat in the pic.  I made them from 3/4" starboard.  I took the upholstery off and clamped the existing to the starboard and used a router to trim.  Really an easy upgrade.

Yep been hanging on to those photos for a while! :)   I've bought the Starboard, just need the Seadek and time 

Did you use router the Seadek on a router-table first or after it was attached like BradM? It looks like you routered the edge first? 

Here is another guy Brad M that did it. 

 

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12 hours ago, cadd said:

Yep been hanging on to those photos for a while! :)   I've bought the Starboard, just need the Seadek and time 

Did you use router the Seadek on a router-table first or after it was attached like BradM? It looks like you routered the edge first? 

Here is another guy Brad M that did it. 

 

I routered it on my router table after I got the starboard cut for a template.  Be very very careful with your fingers.

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On 6/11/2018 at 6:20 PM, wrhatt said:

 I can't go forward with the boat on the trailer as the tongue weight is already at 300lbs (measured on a scale). It's all I can do to lift it when I have to jostle the trailer around.  If I may also ask, is the single axle strong enough to support my rig? The previous owner says it came with a single axle but most photos I see of a 2200V Pathfinder, they are on tandem axle trailers. 

In my opinion, you can and should have more tongue weight.  I would check with the truck/tow vehicle dealer or the mfg. on-line info as to what max tongue weight could be.  My 2008 Tacoma did squat down 3 inches when the trailer was lowered on the hitch causing the headlights to appear as high beams at night.  I added an additional leaf to the rear leaf springs which solved that problem.  Did the same thing for the new Tacoma as well.

5b23a875e13c0_2008Tacoma-14.thumb.jpg.7c926edc22ae04b9d50c4a45f4457c7c.jpg

I'm no trailer safety expert but with the weight of this boat and motor, I would definitely seek a dual axle trailer if you are regularly towing over the road during the season.  If you are only towing twice during the year (get the boat to the water in Spring, get her home in Fall) than single axle will just barely do the job - go slow.

 

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On 6/14/2018 at 8:37 AM, fin-addict said:

a cont. trailer for that boat will run $2700. out the door.

I would think for the entry level one. I would add stainless, front bunks, and spare tire. 

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17 hours ago, RodWorks said:

I would move the the boat forward 3 inches.   What's your issue with having over 300lbs. of tongue weight?

Trailer tongue weight should be 10-15% of the gross weight over your trailer.  Your 22 and trailer is probably 4000 lb. loaded with fuel and tackle, if not more.  So. your tongue weight should be 400-600 lb.

As long as the tow vehicle can support that much weight on the bumper. You will be surprised how little tongue weight will sag a new vehicle!

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1 hour ago, mustang190 said:

As long as the tow vehicle can support that much weight on the bumper. You will be surprised how little tongue weight will sag a new vehicle!

I would get an appropriate size tow vehicle if that's the issue.  Having a trailer with too little tongue weight causes instability and swaying.

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