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General disarray

Cheese grater question

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I noticed the new steel grate is thinner and the center holes don’t line up. What’s everyone doing? 

 

I was thinkg to redrill the holes he holes in the stainless to match then bed the entire edges in 4200 and wipe smooth to smooth the transition from the hull to the grater

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19 hours ago, fishmanjj said:

Perfect solution....use existing holes in boat...redrill grater if necessary.

Well plan went a little sideways. Decided to clean it up and prep - the center holes are so far off to the sides the hole for the screw would be half on the plate half off.

i am thinking six10 the center holes and redrill. Thoughts? I wouldn’t need to gel over those since I’m bedding it right?

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If you drill new holes, just be sure to completely seal the old ones when you put new cheese grater on....be sure to use a sealant for "below the waterline" ....I would use 4200.... but, that's just my opinion, JJ

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45 minutes ago, fishmanjj said:

If you drill new holes, just be sure to completely seal the old ones when you put new cheese grater on....be sure to use a sealant for "below the waterline" ....I would use 4200.... but, that's just my opinion, JJ

Yeah I was going to six10 the old ones which is a full epoxy resin.

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1 hour ago, Waterman18 said:

Wondering why you need to replace the grater?

I'm having some issues with my pumps not pumping at speed....can the grater go bad?

Mine is the old plastic (or PVC) version. The areas around the screws had cracked through so it was about to rip off. 

I would actually think your pumps would run better at speed. Heck, if my valves were open mine would push water through with the pumps off. 

Does yours pump at low speed or off? Do you have the new style grater? 

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Thanks for sharing will be good to be marked in here. First time Ive seen that. 

For the record how mine worked out was:

Obviously remove old piece and clean up all of the old sealant.

1) Visibly lined up which holes work and which dont (I was able to get the 4 corners but not the centers)

2) Drilled and cleaned the 2 center holes (I did not drill all the way through. That part seems a bit excessive and I dont get the gain there). Filled the 2 with six10 (Per West Systems it was the perfect product for the use). I used a long nozzle syringe to fill from the back forward.

3) Once that dried (I gave it 4 days) I attached the new grater (test fit), ran the screws in and then marked the new holes. Drilled those out

4) Used masking tape to mask the border around the hull and then 1/4" in around the grater (face side)

4) Pumped 4200 into each screw hole using a syringe (all 6)

5) Put a bead of 4200 around the entire new grater (inside)

6) Screwed and tightened down the new grater.

7) Added/smoothed 4200 around entire parameter for a smooth transition. Ensured no gaps all the way around. 

8) Removed tape, cleaned up and gave it 24 hours before launching. 

 

Yes the end product is a little inset (about 1/8"). I had the same idea to add washers but I figured between fumbling with them and  concerns about getting a seal in-between and around the spacing washers it would be more headache than its worth. Honestly the 1/8" inset doesnt look bad. 

Maybe I did it wrong but I took it out and everything still works like a champ or better than before. With the screws I dont see the reason for 5200. 

 

Disclaimer - I am by no means an expert or anything close to one. 

 

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I think the sea chest concept for getting water to the live well while running is a great feature.  However, even before I saw the old post by Hobo, and before I saw the cheese grater that comes standard on a Maverick HPX, I never liked the cheese grater on my Redfisher.  The newer design stainless cheese grater on my Redfisher was recessed 5/16".  With it not being smooth and flush with the bottom surface of the hull, and the large holes in the trailing end of the stainless plate, I was always concerned about drag, turbulence and ventilation.  My 3-blade prop was often losing bite in turns unless I buried the lower unit all the way down with the jack plate.  At WOT with the motor trimmed up high, the chine walking was hard to handle, and I wondered if the drag from the cheese grater on one side of the keel was causing the instability.
So I made a new cheese grater (link to pictures below).  I cut a 3/8" thick piece of Lexan to fit up inside the sea chest so that it's flush with the bottom of the hull, and used the stainless plate as a template to drill the screw holes so it would match up.  Got some 316 stainless flat-head screws to countersink in the new Lexan grater.  Drilled holes at an angle to pick up water when running, with 4 pressure relief (air-pocket relief) holes in the opposite direction on the leading side of the grater.  Mounted it with plenty of 3M 4200 and caulked the edges to seal it flush.  Afterward, I found out that the cheese grater plates on older models used to be thicker and flush, with angled holes, before the switch to the thinner stainless plate.  Then a close friend sent me a photo of the cheese grater on his Maverick HPX 18, which is flush with angled holes too (pictured - black hull).  To get to the end of this long post... I tested the new cheese grater last week.  The prop never lost grip in turns, even with the jack plate raised a bit.  I opened up the throttle and trimmed up and the boat did not chine walk like it usually does at high speed.  My wife liked the improved stability and said the handling seemed smoother all around.  I didn't have enough time to run the boat solo to see if top speed was better, but I'd bet it's a touch faster too.  And, I should mention - the new cheese grater pushes a good amount of water to the live well while running without the pump on, but the water pressure with the pump turned on is outstanding!

Lexan cheese grater pics

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7 hours ago, RodWorks said:

It's a shame all the information and posts like that from over the years have been deleted.

Yep! There have been hundreds and hundreds of great post over the years gone :( Tons by Hobo

It goes back to its a manufacture run forum and not an "independent" forum... at least as "independent" as forums are...

My guess is it became too hard to manage and weed thru the less positive and none helpful\wrong post so they decided to kill it and start fresh with no longterm storage so posts just go away after a time, thus requiring minimal management. This also means that folks that spend a lot of time putting together post have little to no incentive since it'll be gone in 6 months :( 

For me personally, the forum was and is a big selling point... But I'm just guessing on the details and  I'm mad about all the older post for my older boat that are gone.... which remains a thorn in my side! 

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They should have never deleted any post by Hobo....he was and is still the King of the Pathfinder questions and answers...he has fixed, improved or modified anything and everything possible on many boats. I have been fortunate to have met him and became friends and he has worked on several of my boats over the years. Not only is he a really good friend, professional fisherman and has more knowledge about Pathfinders than any other man I've ever met....he is also a expert shot with sporting clays. 

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On 5/19/2018 at 6:23 PM, geeviam said:

I think the sea chest concept for getting water to the live well while running is a great feature.  However, even before I saw the old post by Hobo, and before I saw the cheese grater that comes standard on a Maverick HPX, I never liked the cheese grater on my Redfisher.  The newer design stainless cheese grater on my Redfisher was recessed 5/16".  With it not being smooth and flush with the bottom surface of the hull, and the large holes in the trailing end of the stainless plate, I was always concerned about drag, turbulence and ventilation.  My 3-blade prop was often losing bite in turns unless I buried the lower unit all the way down with the jack plate.  At WOT with the motor trimmed up high, the chine walking was hard to handle, and I wondered if the drag from the cheese grater on one side of the keel was causing the instability.
So I made a new cheese grater (link to pictures below).  I cut a 3/8" thick piece of Lexan to fit up inside the sea chest so that it's flush with the bottom of the hull, and used the stainless plate as a template to drill the screw holes so it would match up.  Got some 316 stainless flat-head screws to countersink in the new Lexan grater.  Drilled holes at an angle to pick up water when running, with 4 pressure relief (air-pocket relief) holes in the opposite direction on the leading side of the grater.  Mounted it with plenty of 3M 4200 and caulked the edges to seal it flush.  Afterward, I found out that the cheese grater plates on older models used to be thicker and flush, with angled holes, before the switch to the thinner stainless plate.  Then a close friend sent me a photo of the cheese grater on his Maverick HPX 18, which is flush with angled holes too (pictured - black hull).  To get to the end of this long post... I tested the new cheese grater last week.  The prop never lost grip in turns, even with the jack plate raised a bit.  I opened up the throttle and trimmed up and the boat did not chine walk like it usually does at high speed.  My wife liked the improved stability and said the handling seemed smoother all around.  I didn't have enough time to run the boat solo to see if top speed was better, but I'd bet it's a touch faster too.  And, I should mention - the new cheese grater pushes a good amount of water to the live well while running without the pump on, but the water pressure with the pump turned on is outstanding!

Lexan cheese grater pics

 Nice work on that. What did you use to drill the holes a jig?

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45 minutes ago, General disarray said:

 Nice work on that. What did you use to drill the holes a jig?

Thanks.  I drilled the holes freehand, so they are not exactly alike.  I would use a jig next time.

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