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2000 MA Repair Thread - Stringer issue


whichwaysup

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Had another chance to get up and look at the progress.  Not a lot done since last update, but found a few things to address.  The extended stringers created pockets where water was getting trapped, so we foamed it in, then glassed over them.  The holes hadn't yet been drilled through the stringers to allow water to get from the outside areas of the hull to the bilge, so we locked down the position and angle.  PVC will be run through the holes and glassed in.  A dry fit of the deck looks good, no warping or mis shaping going on.  Discussed ways to address the crack in the chine, that will be fun but the hoist will make it easier.  Pumps and fitttings are here, should be going in soon.  Managed to crack the baitwell, which is plastic , so working on a fix for that.  

 

Need a little help finding a REMOVABLE hatch that is 10 x (up to) 20 inches (exterior flange measurements)for the splashwell.  I can only find hinged versions, which won't work due to the engine rigging.  Any ideas?  I tried Greatlakesskipper but no luck.

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2 hours ago, whichwaysup said:

Need a little help finding a REMOVABLE hatch that is 10 x (up to) 20 inches (exterior flange measurements)for the splashwell.  I can only find hinged versions, which won't work due to the engine rigging.  Any ideas?  I tried Greatlakesskipper but no luck.

You can order the TH marine removable hatches thru West Marine as a special order ... takes 2-3 weeks

link below has a few others on page 6

http://epmarine.com/catalogs/HMG_Catalog.pdf

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Making progress.  PVC is glassed into allow drainage.  Another coat of paint, baitwell fixed and reinforced (not complete yet.  

 

We are also putting additional supprt for the rear deck under the live well and port storage compartments, which were free floating before.   probably overkill.  

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12 hours ago, smilemaker said:

If not too late I would spray as much closed cell foam as possible around the live wells.

Must be true closed cell no cheap spray cans.

Curious what the rationale is for this.  Insulation?  Support?  Shouldnt be too late, we can probably flip the deck upside down and hit it again, just curious what the need is and if what is in there now is still enough.

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10 hours ago, hurricane said:

Coming along great Gus. Hey I had a thought, If you ever wanted them now is a good time to add some flush deck mount rod holders while that top section is out. 

I thought about it, but with 4 rod holders on the platform, I think I am going to pass.  Good suggestion though, keep em coming.

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6 minutes ago, whichwaysup said:

Good suggestion though, keep em coming.

As long as you have it open like this...even though you said you are "not" going to rewire....I'd put together a bundle of wires and have it pulled through and set aside...you will be glad you did when you need to repair some wiring...you have alot of "chafing" going on and one nick on one of the wires in your bilge will create a short..don't know how old your battery cables are but this would be a no brainer to me if it's more than 10 years old or original...as well, the main power from the house battery to the console along with ground would be something I'd replace...this way, all you need to do is replace the bus wires inside the console for the switches...

DC

 

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21 minutes ago, whichwaysup said:

Curious what the rationale is for this.  Insulation?  Support?  Shouldnt be too late, we can probably flip the deck upside down and hit it again, just curious what the need is and if what is in there now is still enough.

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Insulation! Or at least down here in FLORIDA it is why I would! 

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1 hour ago, captpn said:

A good time to get in there and inspect the bait well / deck seal.

Nice project!

We did, it was in good shape.  When I bought the boat, it had a pretty significant crack at the top of the livewell.  I didnt discover it until the fist time I used the boat.  That got interesting very quickly!  We fixed it and checked them then, but re-inspected it last weekend.  

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14 hours ago, whichwaysup said:

I am glad you did.  It led to an important convo on my last visit!  

I can remember anything if it's about fishing and boating. I build custom cabinets for a living while thinking about boats and outboards. I'm in the wrong trade.

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On 7/27/2018 at 8:41 AM, Wanaflatsfish said:

As long as you have it open like this...even though you said you are "not" going to rewire....I'd put together a bundle of wires and have it pulled through and set aside...you will be glad you did when you need to repair some wiring...you have alot of "chafing" going on and one nick on one of the wires in your bilge will create a short..don't know how old your battery cables are but this would be a no brainer to me if it's more than 10 years old or original...as well, the main power from the house battery to the console along with ground would be something I'd replace...this way, all you need to do is replace the bus wires inside the console for the switches...

DC

 

This is actually a great idea, I would consider it

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On 3/26/2018 at 10:25 AM, whichwaysup said:

when you say "It" do you mean the fuel tank?

If so, we will definitely take a good look at her while we're in there.  Getting to it would require more cutting, but to your point, we're 3/4 of the way there.   It is a poly tank and appears to be in excellent shape (there is a large inspection port underneath the bench hatch), but we will take a closer look when we get in there.  Every boat builder I've talked to indicates that the Poly tank has a MUCH longer life span than an aluminum.   Every time they see that it is poly they say it's got a lot of time left".  

I'd be curious if anyone has a different take on it though.   

 

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  • 4 months later...

Well, after a painful hiatus, we're moving forward again.   To bring the audience up to date, here's what's occurred since the last post:

 

1) The original shop that agreed to do the work did a great job . . . and then went awol on me for after July.  Literally, work stopped, communication stopped, and I ended up having to go get the boat. 

2)  Having been less than impressed with the way that went down, I had several different shops inspect the work that was done.  To my great relief, they not only agreed it was quality work, they were clearly impressed with what and how it was done. 

3)  It isn't easy to find a shop to pick up a project mid-stream, and I almost gave up, even listed the boat for sale on here as well as local craigslist.   A combination of multiple offers almost immediately and the guys on here telling me I was nuts to abandon the project made me decide to keep her and keep at it.

4)  I found a shop locally that I'd initially wanted to do the work, but at the time wasn't sure what we were dealing with and had declined it.   At that time, they didn't want to get in there and discover an issue bigger than they could address.  I brought the boat back to them to look at and they remembered it.  Now that the full issue was a) visible and b) corrected, they agreed to take it on and make her right.   We broke the job into two parts - fix the cracks on the bottom first, then put her back together.   I also found a guy who is highly recommended for re-wiring and we agreed on a complete rewire in between the two fiberglass jobs.  

5)  In the meantime, I've been doing some maintenance work on the engine to make sure it's ready, and will be doing the same on the trailer.

Which brings me to today.   Work has officially started on the bottom.   And some interesting news here:

The shop is addressing the main crack along the strake that originally alerted me to the problem, as well as some cracks in the gel coat that are closer to the center of the stern.   The two areas are not connected, but are on either side of the stringer. 

The strake was straightforward-  when the glass was ground down, we found what we expected to find - a crack going through the hull (now fixed on one side in the original work, but still needing to be fully addressed.   Shop seemed happy to see the extent of it and walked me through the plan to address.

The other crack was a bit of a surprise.   Originally, we thought this was primarily superficial/cosmetic due to the hull flexing, but when he started grinding the area, the gelcoat came off in pieces as well as pieces of actual fiberglass (I THINK - I need to confirm that he was referring to both gelcoat and fiberglass, stay tuned, it was a brief convo).   There was a hole all the way through the area into the stringer itself. What became very clear is that the area had been impacted by something hard enough to crack it and potentially that is what popped the stringer loose in the first place.

The good news is that the area is easily repaired and may finally explain how we got here in the first place.   It may also exonerate MBC from the original diagnosis from the insurance company and surveyor that this was a manufacturing defect.  We'll see.

Will attach pics shortly. 

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