Whiskeytrain Posted March 4, 2018 Report Share Posted March 4, 2018 Hey guys, I recently went fishing and after switching the battery switch to number 1, I was getting zero power. I then switched the switch to “all” and there was power. I then put the switch back to 1 and it worked no issue. So basically, I need to put the switch to all before I switch it back to 1 to make it work. Not sure how old the battery switch is, but I’ve had the boat for 4 years. It is a perko switch. Does that just sound like a problem with the switch and time to install a new one? Also, there is some decent resistance when turning the knob. Maybe from interior corrosion? Is it supposed to be fairly easy to turn with little resistance? Also, if you suggest replacing it, what brand do you recommend? I’ve heard good things about blue sea since they are waterproof but am not sure. Thanks for any help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dale Nelson Posted March 5, 2018 Report Share Posted March 5, 2018 The back side should be visible, look for corrosion Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLDXT Posted March 5, 2018 Report Share Posted March 5, 2018 Sounds like ur no. 1 batt is dead or your switch is bad. Have to know your system is wired and what kind of battery arrangement you have. Get a blueseas switch, first thing I did was rip the old Perko switch out and install a Blueseas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whiskeytrain Posted March 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2018 I am guessing it’s the switch because although initially I get no power on “#1” when I switch to number 2 it works and I went back and put it on number 1 and it works no problem. I’ve run the boat twice on number one with no issues after it initially had no power. I’ll take a closer look these next couple days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted March 5, 2018 Report Share Posted March 5, 2018 Perko switches are notorious for just "going bad".....easy fix...just change it out. dc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whiskeytrain Posted March 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2018 I’m going to by a blue sea and replace it this week Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted March 5, 2018 Report Share Posted March 5, 2018 1 hour ago, Whiskeytrain said: I’m going to by a blue sea and replace it this week Be sure to check the size of your lugs at the end of the battery terminals...some of the Perko's are smaller than Blue Seas and it won't fit....ask me why I know this BTW, Blue Seas have been known to have problems as well.....I'd just get another Perko and change it...90% of the time, it never completely fails, you always have the 1/2 all stop. dc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoneyB Posted March 5, 2018 Report Share Posted March 5, 2018 I have not seen near as many threads on Perko switch failures as I have blue sea. The Blue Sea failure I had left me with no power. I had to pull the switch and jump the wires to run the boat. Blue Sea did send a replacement switch for free so I can’t bash them too much. Point is perko is a very reliable and proven product as well. If you prove it to be faulty just replace in kind. No new holes no wiring changes just plug and play.. keep it simple Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCFD rtrd. Posted March 5, 2018 Report Share Posted March 5, 2018 My opinion is that the problem with most battery switches is that they are installed, then the battery leads are connected. When torqueing the battery leads, the plastic switch actually fractures. It's only held together with 3 or 4 small screws that thread into plastic. Try this method; disassemble the switch in basically two parts (front and back). Attach the battery leads to the back while holding the rear half in your hand. This will allow you to torque the bolts sufficiently without breaking anything. Then working from both sides, reassemble the switch. It's important to support the battery leads with some wire ties or wire clamps. The battery leads are heavy and put additional stress on the switch, which in time will cause structural problems with the switch. Just saying. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted March 5, 2018 Report Share Posted March 5, 2018 1 hour ago, HoneyB said: No new holes no wiring changes just plug and play.. keep it simple X2 For $25 go on ebay and buy one off line and keep it as a spare For my main one, I also buy my switches, etc. from WM and buy the warranty for an additional $5 or so ona $45 item....no worries for 3 years dc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JEM Posted March 5, 2018 Report Share Posted March 5, 2018 39 minutes ago, SCFD rtrd. said: My opinion is that the problem with most battery switches is that they are installed, then the battery leads are connected. When torqueing the battery leads, the plastic switch actually fractures. It's only held together with 3 or 4 small screws that thread into plastic. Try this method; disassemble the switch in basically two parts (front and back). Attach the battery leads to the back while holding the rear half in your hand. This will allow you to torque the bolts sufficiently without breaking anything. Then working from both sides, reassemble the switch. It's important to support the battery leads with some wire ties or wire clamps. The battery leads are heavy and put additional stress on the switch, which in time will cause structural problems with the switch. Just saying. My understanding is this was the problem with the Blue Seas for a period of time. Supposedly, they have corrected the manufacturing issue, and the problem has been resolved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fin-addict Posted March 5, 2018 Report Share Posted March 5, 2018 4 hours ago, Wanaflatsfish said: Be sure to check the size of your lugs at the end of the battery terminals...some of the Perko's are smaller than Blue Seas and it won't fit....ask me why I know this BTW, Blue Seas have been known to have problems as well.....I'd just get another Perko and change it...90% of the time, it never completely fails, you always have the 1/2 all stop. dc agree, never had a problem with perko all the years I have been on the water. just replace with same and yes they do get harder to turn after several years. mine is an 03 and just starting to get stiff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whiskeytrain Posted March 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2018 Thanks guys! I’ve had the boat for 4 years now with know issues. I actually bought it from a forum member. 18ft hewes bayfisher. I am not sure how old the switch is. May be the original for all I know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whiskeytrain Posted March 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2018 After further review, I can hear a clicking sound when I try to trim/tilt the engine after putting the battery switch on number one after sitting for some time. Once I put the switch to ALL for a second and click up on the trim and switch back to battery 1, it works fine for some reason. I’m going to have to test the cranking battery. It came with the boat when i bought it 4 years ago and I believe it was not new at that time so it’s probably time to replace it. I’ll have to check it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mulligan Posted March 6, 2018 Report Share Posted March 6, 2018 Quote I am not saying it is not the battery because it could be with a battery of that age but.... If you go from "all" back to 1 and it works it could be the contacts in the switch. When it sits the contacts can get some corrosion and by switching back and forth from all to 1 you can clean some of the corrosion off allowing it to work briefly. Also with corrosion on the contacts your voltage may drop and amp draw go up making it harder to start, trim ect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whiskeytrain Posted March 6, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2018 Thank you for all the replies. I will check the contacts for corrosion and let you guys know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RodWorks Posted March 6, 2018 Report Share Posted March 6, 2018 Just don't buy that mini version Blue Seas switch. They are much better quality then the Perko switch imo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoneyB Posted March 6, 2018 Report Share Posted March 6, 2018 I hate to ask the obvious but have u put a simple volt meter on each battery during the test? It sounds like you trouble shooting is based around the trim switch moving the motor. You know if you switch to 1&2 the batteries will try to equalize. I read your post to say you have not left it in position 1&2 long enough for battery 2 to discharge to battery 1. But really if you do not know the voltage of battery 1 testing the switch is moot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whiskeytrain Posted March 7, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2018 I tried my hardest to find my volt meter and have not found it, so no I have not tested it yet. I purchased another volt meter and waiting for it to arrive. Yes, I have only left the switch at 1+2 for a second to press the trim and tilt, and immediately put it back to 1and it works no problem. Maybe I’ll take a quick video because I know it is a little hard to understand in writing. Next step is volt meter and check the comtacts acts and switch for corrosion. updates to come Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoneyB Posted March 7, 2018 Report Share Posted March 7, 2018 I’m following, I was just asking for clarification. When you get your volt meter obviously check the battery and the output on the switch before you swap the switch position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCFD rtrd. Posted March 8, 2018 Report Share Posted March 8, 2018 Initially I was thinking battery switch, but after rereading the thing about switching for 1 to 2 and back to 1, I'm leaning toward a bad connection. When you apply 12 volt power to anything in your boat and the connection is less than good, the wire and connection will start to heat up. Eventually as the heat continues, the bad connection will swell and start to make a better connection, then things start working as normal. I'd start looking at the large battery wires from the battery to the switch to the motor. Don't forget about the grounds, same theory applies to negative wires as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whiskeytrain Posted March 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 Quick update, I out a voltmeter on the battery terminals and it showed over 11 volts so the battery appears good. Didn’t have time to check the connections to the perko switch yet. Going to unscrew the switch from the boat and check the wire connections that attach to the switch. will update I as do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imsnookyrd Posted March 16, 2018 Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 11 volts = dead battery. You need to charge it and then have it load tested and if good then the fun begins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bernieNC Posted March 16, 2018 Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 6 hours ago, Whiskeytrain said: Quick update, I out a voltmeter on the battery terminals and it showed over 11 volts so the battery appears good. Didn’t have time to check the connections to the perko switch yet. Going to unscrew the switch from the boat and check the wire connections that attach to the switch. will update I as do it. Not good. 12.1 volts is about 50% Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whiskeytrain Posted March 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 Thanks for the clarification. I thought I read online 9.5 volts was considered a “dead” battery but i must have misinterpreted it and it might mean “not salvageable” It’s at least 4 years old (the time since I’ve had the boat) . I do not know when the previous owner bought the battery but it might finally be dead for good and time to replace , but I’ll get it checked out. Thanks for all the advice guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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