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Porpoising and corner blowout


Arthur

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Hello everybody,

  In october I bought a 2007 Pathfinder 2200V w a Yamaha F150TLR on it.  Being winter and all, I haven't had a lot of time on the water with it beyond a long weekend at Cape Lookout NC in November and a couple of short runabouts at the local lake.   This is my second Pathfinder.  The first was a 2003 1900V with a Suzuki 140 which was an awesome combo!  I have noticed that the new boat porpoises unless I have the engine and tabs trimmed all the way down.  Also, in a higher speed corner it will blow out and cavitate in the corners.  Just took the boat in to get it serviced so I have a known starting point for the maintenance on the boat and and I mentioned the issues with the porpoising and corner blowout to the mechanic...  Got a call today from him.  He said that it looks like this boat should have an F150TXR rather than TLR (ie 25" shaft length instead of 20").  He was saying that the cavitation plate on the engine is 5" above the bottom of the keel and that it should be more like 2".  I have a couple of questions:

  What shaft length motors do others have on their 2007 PF 2200Vs?

  Do you have issues with cavitation and porpoising?

  The boat also has a T Top on it and I'd started to wonder if that catching air when under way may have caused the porpoising issue, but it shouldn't cause it to blow out in corners...  I think  ;).  Also I bought the boat from a dealer who got it from the original owner.  I have all the original paperwork including a copy of the yamaha performance bulletin for this boat which had a Yam F150TLR on it.  So I think the motor on it has the correct shaft length.  The motor on my boat is mounted in the very bottom slot of the bracket, which I believe is the same as what was used for the performance bulletin.  I'd be grateful for your thoughts.  I want this boat to perform as any good Pathfinder should  ;)!  Thanks for any input you can share.  

    Best,

   Art

 

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Lower the motor as suggested by the mechanic. Don’t try to match the performance test when setting your boat up. Those test are done with nothing in the boat and very little fuel on board. Lower the engine to keep it from blowing out in turns and then you can see how the boat is running on the prop you have

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The 20” shaft is the correct length for the 2200V.   The motor should be mounted in the lowest position (top holes).  But you didn’t say what prop you are running.   That is crucial information.  The ventilation during turns can be eliminated with a prop.  My boat porpoises in the mid speed range that takes some tab to stop it.  Increase the speed, and I can bring the tabs back up.  

You have to tell us what prop you are running!

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Is the motor mounted directly to the boat? Is there a jack plate on the boat . If the Motor is mounted directly to the transom is there no room between  the top of your transom and the Motor bracket?  I took your first stament of the Mounted in the bottom of the slot that you should have room to move it to the top of the slot. It would be hard to believe the boat was not drilled correctly. Also hard to believe a 20 inch Motor is that high on the transom. 

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I have a 2000v. Porpoising is an issue with those models due to weight in the back. I’ve moves as much weight forward as I can and that has helped. I still have to use tabs from time to time to stop a minor bounce but no big deal. Cavitation has been an issue though. We worked with Funky Monkey at Power Tech to dial the prop in but there was mo correction for dealing with aerated water that is caused by the external ( not in pockets) trim tabs. Not as much of an issue for boats that have the tabs built into pockets. 

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The Pathfinder 2200V's are great boats but they are very finicky in order to operate like they are capable.  A 20" motor is correct for that boat.

The best thing you can do is to use a PowerTech OFX4 X 17.  It's a stern lifting prop that runs high in the water column.

I run my motor trimmed all the way in and normally don't use any tabs.  If my live well is full or I have a number of people in the stern then a little tab is required.

 

 

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I agree with all that said you need a lifting prop on your boat. I prefer some of the three blade Mercury props to power tech but I do not have real world experance  with your hull.

another thought is does you boat have any type jack plate. If you truly can not Lower the Motor a notch or two you could consider a set back bracket to get the prop in cleaner water. Even if you moved it back six inches it might make up for the height of the motor. There must be some people here with set back brackets on that hull that could chime in.

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Not disputing your knowledge but are you positive you have a V rather than a XL model?  Both were built in '07. Most likely you have the correct motor but you never know. The V does take a 20" shaft but the XL takes the 25". As for the porpoising I never trim the motor up at all and use the tabs just a little to prevent it. These boats don't need much trim. As stated get you a PowerTech OFX4. It makes a world of difference. 

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If you are not sure what the XL looks like as compared to the V model.....here is a pic of the rear of mine to show you. This is a XL model with 25" transom and F150 on it with Power Tech OFX-17 4 blade prop. No jackplate....also no problems.

only problem is posting the pictures correctly 😂

IMG_1573.JPG

IMG_1575.JPG

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yep, good question about the exact model.  The boat is definitely a 2200V.  And the motor is mounted directly to the transom via a bracket and the motor is set to be as low as possible with the cavitation plate being level with the top of the pocket.  I have been chatting with the mechanic about options and he had also suggested possibly installing a jack plate with a setback to try to get the prop into cleaner water.  To be honest, I bought this boat at the end of october 2017 after which I took it to the coast for 3 days.  Since then I’ve had it on the lake 1 time to run it long enough to get the fuel stablizer into the fuel rails and then since then winter has come on here in North Cackalacky and I have not had a chance to get it back on the water to play around with trim etc.  I really appreciate all of the info ya’ll have shared!  I am going to take it all under advisement at this point and I am looking forward to getting the boat back on the water to play with it some more before I make a final decision on how to proceed to address this issue.  At this point I think I can probably live with using the tabs to prevent the porpoising, but I will definitely have to do something about the blow out in the corners cuz I just don’t like slowing down that much in the corners... ;)  The OFX4 17 sounds like it might be just the ticket since it seems to be working well for others where the jack plate option does make sense, but it seems it might be a bit more of an experiment that may or may not work out...  

thanks again to all for their input!  If anyone thinks of any other ideas, I’d love to hear about them.  Whatever I end up doing I’ll post back so folks can hear what the results are.  Thanks again!

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Ok, just picked up the boat last night.  The prop on it is a Yamaha Reliance Series  19M 13 3/4 with three blades.    The blowout in the corners is typically when I am running in the 4500-5000rpm range.    Course I say typically but need more seat time in the boat before I can say it's typical.  

Been tryin to catch up w Funky Monkey but we've been missing each other... 

Anyway, I am also throwing in a couple pics of the engine cover that I just had repainted/stickered cuz it looks so pretty... ;)

engine cover1.JPG

Engine side.jpg

Engine cover 3.JPG

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The cowl is very pretty :) 

  I thought you were going to show some pics of the Motor mounting height. When you run the boat again trim the motor all the way down and see if she blows out. Work the trim up and try it again. I would say if you have to tuck the Motor all the way down then you can probably make that better. Possibly with prop possibly with setback. As other mentions you need a prop designed to run high in the water that gets some bite 

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Nice paint job!  As I suspected in my post above, you confirmed you are running the Reliance 19" prop.  Any motor trim at all, and this prop will ventilate in a turn.  As several said above, the PT OFX4 17" is a popular choice for the 2200V and F150 combo.  The only way to ventilate an OFX4 17" prop is to tilt the motor out of the water! LOL  But in my experience, that prop will not let the motor turn up to the upper rpm ranges (5800 - 6000) as it should.  Especially so with a t-top!   You might ask Marcus at PT if an OFX 3 blade, something like an 17" prop (or maybe  a 16") would work.   Normally loaded, you need to be able to turn at least 5800 rpms, IMHO.  I happen to be using an OFX3 x 19" on a 225 SHO mounted on a jack plate, and it will not ventilate!!!!!

Another option is talking to Ken at Prop Gods, who allows you to test props for a small rental fee.  I believe he is also a PT dealer.  Testing without having to buy is a deal, when you aren't sure which prop you need.  I tested a Mercury prop that way with him.   

As best as I can guess, looking at your second picture, it appears like the top bolt is in the top hole of the motor mount.  If so, that is the correct height placement.

As far as the porpoising is concerned, that is just a fact of life with these hulls......at least in a narrow band of mid range speed.   Just a touch of tab is usually needed if you are going to stay in that rpm speed range.   Or as someone suggested, shifting a lot of weight forward, which I personally would not prefer to do.    

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  • 4 weeks later...

Arthur,

Did the PowerTech OFX4-17 resolve your problem?

I have the same 2007 2200V,  F150TLR, mounted in the same hole, and the same Reliance 19...Same Corner Blowout Problem.

Differences, I have the ATLAS 6", moved the starter battery forward to the center console with the 2 troll batteries, and no T-Top...  Zero Porpoise

Should you test the Powertech OFX4 17, and find it resolves the corner blow out, Please share.  

Bamaskeet, is the PowerTech full correct;    PN# 15.25x17 RH OFX4R17PCLY200

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11 minutes ago, PC Charters said:

Arthur,

Did the PowerTech OFX4-17 resolve your problem?

I have the same 2007 2200V,  F150TLR, mounted in the same hole, and the same Reliance 19...Same Corner Blowout Problem.

Differences, I have the ATLAS 6", moved the starter battery forward to the center console with the 2 troll batteries, and no T-Top...  Zero Porpoise

Should you test the Powertech OFX4 17, and find it resolves the corner blow out, Please share.  

Bamaskeet, is the PowerTech full correct;    PN# 15.25x17 RH OFX4R17PCLY200

I ran the PT OFX17 prop on my 2007 2200V, F150.   You cannot make that prop ventilate.  Period.  However, you will not get the rpms in the upper range where the motor should be.  If I remember correctly, I could turn maybe 5500 - 5600 with a very light load.

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