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SthurmanFW

HPX-T ideal motor height

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I just "switched out" my '04 HPX-V 18 for a '05 HPX-T as the big girl was too big for my fishing needs on the TX coast. 

I know there is a lot of conversation out there about Jackplates (I've searched many forums on that subject) on the T and it seems that the consensus is that you really don't "need' it but many run them and love them.

Mine does not have a JP and I'm not planning to add one but I do have a question about motor mounting height and if the T owners on this forum have a recommendation.

I've noticed in some pictures of HPX-T's either in ads or on the forum that the motors are generally hung a few holes up on the motor mount, not all the way down in the last whole which is where mine is currently.

Does anyone have an opinion on optimum height for the TX coast with the tunnel hull. I haven't run it myself down there yet and wanted to get it set up properly before I head down there the first time if possible.

Interested to see what everyone has to say.

Thanks

ST

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I have a 2011 HPXT and do run a jack plate. I am very happy with it and would install another if I was starting over. I tend to run the motor pretty high (4 - 5 on the JP) most of the time but there are times I run it deeper as well as times when I run it at the top.

That said, I have been on a T without a JP and the owner (Rockport guide Chuck Scates) was very adamant that he did not need one. He did have the motor mounted as high as possible and just used a lot of trim, along with tilting the boat over as much as possible, to get shallow water hole shots.

While I do think you want the motor as high as possible to make full use of the tunnel and shallow water performance, I also think the prop dictates how high the motor needs to be to stay happy. I am currently running a 3 blade PT SWW series prop and it likes to run high in the tunnel. On my last  boat, a PF 17T, I had a Performance wheel and it preferred to run deeper in the tunnel.

Good luck!

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Good point - I put a Shaw wing on my PF 17t. Definitely helped with hole shot and keeping adequate water pressure. Didn't see any negative effects on top end as these are already slow boats without the plate. I haven't seen a plate on a HPXT but doesn't mean it won't work.

I am a big fan of Kevin Shaw and his products. His factory is in Corpus and you can work direct with him on plates and push poles. Give him a call as he is very familiar with the HPXT and how to set one up.

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I've owned alot of tunnel hulls, all used in the LLM. All have had jackplates and a fiberglass compression plate except for my HPXT. 2 Dargels, 2 Shallowsports, 17t and a Curlew. All ran 4 blade props. The Hpx was noticeably slower up on plane than the 17t, yam 70 2s vs Yam 60 2s. The 17t did not have tabs, the hpx did. The 17t had a manual jackplate the hpx did not. Even with a manual jackplate, the motor mounting is several inches higher on the 17t. When I bought the 17t, the dealer had the motor mounted 2 holes from the highest, water would hit the antventilation plate and spray over the transom. Added a 4 inch setback plate and top holes on motor are several inches above the top of the transom. As to motor longevity effects, that boat was bought in May 2000 with a 60 Yam 2s and I still own and runs like new despite spending most of its life in a hyper saline lagoon. The fiberglass plates are made by Stiffy, Dargel and Shallowsport as well as others so shop around, it's a pretty simple device and I think optimizes holeshots in shallow water.

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