fin-addict Posted November 28, 2017 Report Share Posted November 28, 2017 you can get a moisture meter and check where the most water is. wow, that is a lot of draft added and loss of mph. feel like it is going to take more than cutting a hole in the hull to solve the problem. hope I am wrong. best of luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captpn Posted November 30, 2017 Report Share Posted November 30, 2017 just a thought. Launch it, but only half way. Keep it on the trailer and the damaged glass area out of the water. See if the bilge fills up again. PS - you have more balls than me, taking it out for a ride after finding 6" in the bilge, that's ALOT of water in a few minutes at rest Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sunstone Posted December 1, 2017 Report Share Posted December 1, 2017 If the hatch is large enough you could run a dehumidifier all winter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OSlawyer Posted December 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2017 I met with the fiberglass guy today who does not think it likely that the foam would ever really dry. I think the next course is to remove as much of it as possible, then dry out what is left and blow in new closed cell flotation foam. I am not sure how to access all of the foam as we are trying to avoid having to remove the engine and pull the cap off the hull. It seems like it would be a huge job (for a 21 year ole boat) to have to pull off trolling motor connections, trim tab connections, power pole connections, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.N Posted December 1, 2017 Report Share Posted December 1, 2017 Does the hull constantly drip water on the ground days after use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted December 2, 2017 Report Share Posted December 2, 2017 On 11/30/2017 at 7:22 PM, OSlawyer said: I met with the fiberglass guy today who does not think it likely that the foam would ever really dry. I think the next course is to remove as much of it as possible, then dry out what is left and blow in new closed cell flotation foam. I am not sure how to access all of the foam as we are trying to avoid having to remove the engine and pull the cap off the hull. It seems like it would be a huge job (for a 21 year ole boat) to have to pull off trolling motor connections, trim tab connections, power pole connections, etc. Sounds like you have to decide to do a rebuild or sell as salvage.... What do you have into the boat ? $$ wise... You can just take your loss now....walk away and give it to someone who wants to rebuild....or invest probably $5-7K to have it done by someone. It's going to be 90% labor from what it sounds like. dc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fin-addict Posted December 2, 2017 Report Share Posted December 2, 2017 x2 on what wana stated. it is a big job. think the only way to do it right is to remove the cap. fin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoneyB Posted December 2, 2017 Report Share Posted December 2, 2017 So outside of the busted hull. Have you addressed the fact that your bulge pump should have been running its behind off the whole time you were taking on that water. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polliwog Posted January 25, 2018 Report Share Posted January 25, 2018 I'm surprised that the weight from saturated foam seems to be that heavy? It would have to be several hundred lbs to drop the hull that much. Can you weigh the hull? This sight info on what the hull should weigh approximately. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flipturn Posted February 20, 2018 Report Share Posted February 20, 2018 Water will make foam heavy! All aside, seems like a common problem - talking mystery leaks. I had one, just not as bad, and I removed/replaced the cockpit scuppers. It eliminated much of my problem, but I still get some water in - I suspect from the port livewell drain, which is a similar thru hull fitting as the scuppers. I've noticed that I don't take on much of any water now if I have that port livewell drain plugged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JEM Posted February 20, 2018 Report Share Posted February 20, 2018 6 minutes ago, Flipturn said: Water will make foam heavy! All aside, seems like a common problem - talking mystery leaks. I had one, just not as bad, and I removed/replaced the cockpit scuppers. It eliminated much of my problem, but I still get some water in - I suspect from the port livewell drain, which is a similar thru hull fitting as the scuppers. I've noticed that I don't take on much of any water now if I have that port livewell drain plugged. One common area for water intrusion into the bilge, at least on Pathfinders, is around to top of the live well "tub" where is attaches to the underneath of the deck. If you are running with a live well full of water, it can splash through areas where there is separation from the deck/break in the seal. This can be stopped by applying caulk with Life Caulk, silicone sealant, or something like 4200/5200. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted February 21, 2018 Report Share Posted February 21, 2018 3 hours ago, JEM said: One common area for water intrusion into the bilge, at least on Pathfinders, is around to top of the live well "tub" where is attaches to the underneath of the deck. If you are running with a live well full of water, it can splash through areas where there is separation from the deck/break in the seal. This can be stopped by applying caulk with Life Caulk, silicone sealant, or something like 4200/5200. Ditto I used two tubes of life caulk (large ones that fit in a gun)...to seal up all my livewells on my Pathy...it's common on most MHP early models...I believe now they are better sealed in the fit and finish. dc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OSlawyer Posted April 15, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2018 I am finally getting back to the forum after a long fix to my water-in-the bilge issue. The hole has been repaired and I have had two center bunks added while removing one of the center rollers. I believe that the two original bunks, which were only 6' long, were not supporting the weight of the entire boat. Instead, much of the weight was resting on one of the center rollers which eventually punched a hole through the hull after the boat bounced on it while trailering, launching and retrieving for several years. I am hoping that the new set up will prevent this from happening again. As to the water in the foam, my fiberglass guy cut out the bottom of the seat storage area as well as putting holes in the side of the gunnels (which he replaced with hatches). From here, he cut out as much wet foam as he could reach, left the boat in a warm garage with fans running, and then refoamed the areas he had dug out. The weather is still 38 degrees so I am not able to tell how successful he was at drying the foam but I hope to test it soon, if Spring ever arrives. The hatches give me a little extra storage too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nolezone Posted May 17, 2018 Report Share Posted May 17, 2018 I too am getting lots of water below and decided to check it out while in the water. WOW... a steady stream of water is trickling in from what appears to be my port trim tab! I’m going to inspect the site as soon as this Florida rain backs off a bit. I also removed and reset my plug with fresh 4200 just to rule that out too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polliwog Posted May 17, 2018 Report Share Posted May 17, 2018 I have been following this discussion for a while and I am seeing that a lot of the older Hewes boats end up with fittings leaks caused by these fittings that are secured by screws and not thru bolted. As I said earlier my poling platform legs were secured with lag bolts which worked loose over time with the pressure on the platform and boat motion. Nolezone, I would after, confirming the trim tabs are leaking,use 5200 3m on the screws. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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