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2200 TE Standing Water Under Pumps?

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There's dip or valley (bow to stern direction) in the fiberglass under the pumps in the rear starboard hatch that always retains a pool of nasty, only water. Anyone else have this issue? Maybe there's a drain there and I can't see it?

Thanks-

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Is this area part of the hull or is it a compartment that is elevated over the bilge? If it's a compartment with a floor that is over the bilge, just find the lowest spot and drill a hole for the water to drain to the bilge. But, first you should determine where the water is coming from. If it's just rain or wash down water, no problem. But if the water is coming from a pump or water line, then that needs to be addressed.

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On 9/2/2017 at 5:14 PM, nicecast said:

There's dip or valley (bow to stern direction) in the fiberglass under the pumps in the rear starboard hatch that always retains a pool of nasty, only water. Anyone else have this issue?

YES!!  2016 22TRS, same hull as yours, I guess.  This is making me nuts...Here is what the bilge of my V 2000 looked like after 1000 hours...

59b13d65193e2_MissLaurie-1.thumb.jpg.98756a48364b2a392293b6a8f5068281.jpg

59b13e31d8960_MissLaurie-2.thumb.jpg.9999fc1295d84da847133fd3e6a8bca8.jpg

Here is the "valley" that you have noted on the starboard side under the aft hatch of the new boat, the 22 TRS...

59b1418ec824f_Bilge2.thumb.JPG.161eeb15c1ff96084c066b399327c835.JPG

In this photo, the stern is to the left.  The direction to the bilge is up and note the drain hole to the bilge directly above the "A" in Apollo.  The hole is cut through the stringer I guess, but is not low enough to drain the puddle.  By the way, nothing needs to be leaking for this to happen.  Tow the boat through a rain storm or give it a good wash down and water gets in there.

I had mentioned this to Ray in Warranty over at MBC.  He said, "Send a picture".  Haven't had the chance yet.

Two solutions to consider.

1) drill/rout the existing hole to a larger diameter so bottom of hole is flush with bottom of puddle.

or

2) Clean and dry the depression, flood with epoxy to the level of the hole and paint white.

Any comment?

I could take it to my fiberglass guy but he would charge $400 and make it look like it was never there. He is very good AND very expensive.

Also, the area under the starboard side fold up seat doesn't drain well either, same issue, hole for drainage is too high.

My thoughts are with the folks at MBC in Ft Pierce and all the other Pathfinders in the potential path of the storm - be safe everyone.

 

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It looks like Ron painted his bilge area just before taking those top two pictures....has there ever been any water in those livewell lines ?  there's no way any boat can be that clean , JJ

oh wait....I forgot, Ron is Mr Clean and everything he owns has been Zaino'ed five times !

 

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So you can see how this puddle of standing water under the rearmost starboard hatch is making me nuts!  I was going to call Ray at MBC and then thought that would be a terrible thing to do right now with Irma bearing down on them.

You've got a 22, do you have the puddle as well or was the older design different (better)?

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Mine is a 2007 and this has been an issue for a while. I figured there might be a drain but the water is so oily/dirty I can't see it. Once the storm passes I'll sop it up and try to find the drain. Assuming I still have a boat after Irma>:(

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I understand  the neatness freaks but it is a good  thing  you can't  see too far under the deck. Do a cap off restoration and you would have a heart attack.  It is a boat and there will always be pockets of water pooled in areas depending on the angle of the boat. Sometimes I feel  as if expectations have gone too far. 

Jokingly  just attach a crane to the bow eye and give it a good shake.

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18 hours ago, smilemaker said:

 " just attach a crane to the bow eye and give it a good shake."

I thought I knew all the tricks - THAT IS A GREAT IDEA!

When I bought the 1990 Donzi Sweet Sixteen, we did a pretty serious restoration and you are right, found interesting stuff in out of the way places, e.g., a small anchor and rode, a life jacket, old fender, etc. all covered in mold and mildew, been there for years.

Laurie is sensitive to mold and when she is face down on the Pathfinder bow cushions breathing in the salt air, the last thing I want is a sneezing fit.  Every few months, I fill the bilge with water until the pumps go off then add "Simple Green", an environmentally safe detergent and then drive a bunch of miles down the highway, swerving from one side of the highway to the other, then accelerating to 80 mph or so and hitting the brakes hard.  All this sloshing around keeps the "out of reach" spots in the bilge clean.  Then I find a very steep slope, often a launch ramp, pull the plug and drain her out. We then use a borescope to check the results.

If that doesn't work, I'll catch a few chipmunks, strap small squares of Mr Clean Magic Whitener to their feet like ice skates and turn them loose in the bilge area.

OK, I'm kidding about the borescope.  

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Here is the e-mail I sent to Ray...

 

 

Hey Ray, we hope all is well at MBC in Ft Pierce.

 
Here is a minor but annoying issue that a bunch of us have with the 22 foot hulls. i.e., Tournament Edition, TRS, etc.
 
Under the Aft Most Starboard Side Hatch, there is a “puddle” that holds about and inch or two of standing water which refuses to drain into the bilge.  Here is photo…
 
Bilge-1.thumb.jpg.65073833f8c0f1dcb0ba280948b1ef79.jpg
 
To get you oriented, the transom is to the left, the bilge is above the picture, the bow to the right.  There is a drain hole to the bilge directly above the “A” in Apollo, but it is too high to completely drain this area.
 
As mentioned, there are a few of us on the Forum with the same issue.  I told them I would contact you for a solution.
 
I was thinking that we could clean and dry the area, flood with resin up to the hole, then paint white.
 
I don’t think we can drill a hole straight down as that will go through the hull.
 
What do you guys think?
 
Thanks Ray.  
 
You can reach me at 678 358 2134 if you need further info. 
 
 

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And here is his response...

 

"Hey Ron

 

Thanks for the pic. I am more concerned with that leaf????

Oh and you have a spot of corrosion on the elbow. LOL

A sponge works well to remove the water. If it bugs you, you can fill the void, with either resin or a putty of some sort? Just scuff up the gel coat and wipe down with acetone first so you get a good bond.

 

__________________________________________________

Ray Ayres
Parts/Customer Service ·  Maverick Boat Group Inc.  ·   Maverickboatgroup.com  ·  772.465.0631, ext 103

 

So, I'll try the "flood the zone" fix and report on results.

 

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I would not  just pour resin in the area. The depth is too deep and it will crack and come out.

You need to get to good glass with minimal gelcoat and use glass and mat

 Some filler will be ok.  poured resin will fail  you need glass and mat.

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Nuts.  I thought this would be an easy fix.

Tell you what Smilemaker, based upon your occupation, I think you could do a wonderful job filling this cavity.  In return, I will be happy to Zaino your hull.  Deal?

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I would be far ahead in the deal. My boat gets fished hard and is rigged for just that.  

Those  that go fishing with me ask where to sit and I tell them we are going fishing hold on to the console rail.

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On 9/19/2017 at 6:02 PM, smilemaker said:

I would not  just pour resin in the area. The depth is too deep and it will crack and come out.

You need to get to good glass with minimal gelcoat and use glass and mat

 Some filler will be ok.  poured resin will fail  you need glass and mat.

OK Dr Smiley, filled the cavity as per your suggestion..

Here is what it looked like "before"...

59cd58c021db2_BilgeRepair-1.thumb.jpg.68e2fe93a2928a1b383f2167a221f1b9.jpg

Here it is filled with a mixture of resin and glass fibers - very rough and thick stuff - and rough sanded...

59cd58dbd91c6_BilgeRepair-2.thumb.jpg.b843238551cc1a8054c812a8f5b91266.jpg

Here is a thin coat of pure liquid resin on top of the rough stuff...

59cd585dbc0fa_BilgeRepair-3.thumb.jpg.a339423d6e651116e8ed8cf173fc91ef.jpg

Now, sanded and painted over...

59cd58a2dc2a8_BilgeRepair-5.thumb.jpg.be71f947bef53293210554cd674c2615.jpg

i believe that the area will now drain into the bilge.  Just gotta get that corrosion off the through-hull now.:)

 

 

Bilge Repair-4.jpg

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Looks good. I am still not a fan of plain resin at any thickness. Mixing it with glass balloons or cabosil into a runny putty is stronger. The area is not likely under twist and stress so it will likely hold up. The prep work of original hull will be a factor in longevity.  The important thing is it will let it drain without the need for a crane.

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Ron, has your fix worked? I traded emails with Ray at MBG and he said I could drill a drain hole into the stringers, but of course that makes me a bit nervous...

Filling in the depression may be a better option.

Not sure how these will come out, but the "depression" and standing water is under the white/red pumps. This is not the usual "water in the bilge" that all boats get. This pool of water collects over by the starboard (inside) gunwale wall and won't drain off - even if I jack the bow up as high as possible.

Pics are of the aft starboard hatch.

PF Bilge 3.jpg

PF Bilge 2.jpg

PF Bilge 1.jpg

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On 10/16/2017 at 2:03 PM, nicecast said:

Ron, has your fix worked?

Yes, it seems to have done the trick.  I haven't flooded the area with water yet but so far, I see no standing water.  The details of how I filled it are shown above.  One good trick not mentioned, lower the trailer jack all the way when doing the repair, this will slightly tilt the surface of the repair making it higher forward and lower aft, allowing the water to drain into the existing hole leading to the bilge.  I also routed out that hole leading to the bilge enlarging it's diameter.

Good luck.  PM me if you need additional advice on the repair.

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