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Having 5 batteries in a 2017 2200trs


PathyNoob

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39 minutes ago, ChrisB said:

I have a gen 1 Ulterra  the issues I had with mine are definitely from getting beat up in chop. I Replaced the belt on it myself there is a new keeper and tensioner

upgrade that seems to have fixed the issue. I keep tools to adjust the belt and remove the side cover in the boat.

Chris, do you use the ram mount for your troller? I noticed this helped a lot on previous boats and eliminated the need for me to move the trolling motor to the back for rough runs. 

 

 

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I thought about it but it kind of defeats the auto deploy feature if I have to go to the bow and unhook the ram mount

it would probably limit the trim not letting the unit go all the way down. I have not had a belt failure since the upgraded parts were installed.

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4 hours ago, HoneyB said:

If you plan to use the trolling motor off shore to hold over reefs go ahead and change the trolling motor plug out. I melted the OEM plug on my 36 volt motor. I just installed a battery tender plug and hope it is as good as reported by others. It seems like a very solid connection. 

Absolutely a must.  

Jp

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On 8/23/2017 at 9:59 PM, triplec said:

Can't speak to the shaft length but on my 2nd Ulterra and its 2nd gen. First, would I get one again, probably. My first one made 6 trips to shop. My second only one trip thus far but its only 6 months old. Thankfully they have two year warranty that is extendable and thats absolutely good money to spend! 2 friends with one and they both have multi trips to shop but all would say when they work...aint nothing finer. But keep a spare troll motor if you use your boat a lot. Kept old ipilot and its a trip saver. I think the 2nd gen ones are improved in more areas than just spot lock but my lift motor is getting noisy and thats what was replaced 4 of the 6 trips on gen 1. So....it may be a matter of when not if...but its crazy convenient if solo fishing much at all.

I have the GEn 1, never a sputter....knock on wood.

But, I keep the batteries always fully charged and i keep the remote battery changed every couple of months to insure good blue tooth connection.

Also, I'm using tight connections and I use the battery tender for the connection.  I use dielectric grease on all connections. and keep everything tight on the battery tender.

dc

 

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On 8/24/2017 at 9:26 AM, HoneyB said:

If you plan to use the trolling motor off shore to hold over reefs go ahead and change the trolling motor plug out. I melted the OEM plug on my 36 volt motor. I just installed a battery tender plug and hope it is as good as reported by others. It seems like a very solid connection. 

are you talking about the mk plug that plugs to the boat?

i mainly fish solo n some nearshore which is the reason i was thinking 72in. 

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  I am talking about the connection form the Trolling motor to the boat. There is a much better built replacement for the oem plug. one half mounts to your trolling motor wires. Obvuously the other half mounts in your boat.

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-027-0004-BK-Trolling-Connector/dp/B002UCLJG0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503883309&sr=8-1&keywords=battery+tenders+trolling

 

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  • 1 year later...
On 8/24/2017 at 12:13 AM, ChrisB said:

Four batteries is all you need unless your running a big stereo/amp. if you put in 5 or install 2 under aft seats the stock 4 bank charger wont work and you will need to pull wire to the aft batts. You can fit 5 in the console just have to rearrange the trays. 60 inch shaft is all you need on the 22,  the longer shaft of the 72 will take more of a beating if you plan on running in the gulf or big chop in Galveston bay. Minn Kota wants you to use the RTA 54 HD bracket because of the extra leverage of the 72 shaft

 

 

@ChrisB Do you recommend anyone specific to do electrical work in the Galveston/Houston area? I’m going to be looking to get a new trolling motor and other electronics soon and want to move from a 2 battery setup to a 5 battery setup in my 2200. THanks! 

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