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What did you do to your boat today?

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On ‎1‎/‎17‎/‎2019 at 1:31 PM, whichwaysup said:

Very nice!   Love that feeling of running in a boat you love.

Speaking of which, I got a quote this a.m. on the next part of the job to get mine back on the water - putting the rear deck back on and putting her back together.   It came in about what I expected, so I will get her done.   The shop reinforced that they couldn't be more impressed with the work done to fix and reinforce the stringers, which is music to my ears.   They will be grinding down the area beneath the stringer over the next week to fix the cracks that the delamination caused.   I'll post pics up in my thread as I get them. 

Rewiring will start at the beginning of Feb, and I was able to find some replacement LED bow lights (the old ones were getting pretty corroded.   I may go ahead and have the thru-hull transducer hooked up again so I never lose depth when running - which happens when I am am running WOT with my side scan xducer. 

In the meantime, work continues on the rest of the boat.  I'll be replacing the hubs on the trailer and keeping the old ones as spares for long trips.   Got the parts to replace the upper seals in the lower unit of the engine.   Still debating on whether to upgrade my ipilot with the bluetooth/more accurate one or whether to invest in a power pole, or whether to install a jackplate.   A lot will depend on what it ultimately takes to put the boat back on the water. 

It's been a year and 3 months since I first discovered this issue.   I still wonder if it will ever actually be done.   I hear that the fish stocks have dramatically increased since I've been land locked, though  :)

That's because your not fishing !!!!

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I installed a Lumitec Newt LED bait well light in my aft center bait well this past Saturday.  While I was in the well, I ran a bead of caulk around the top of the tub hoping to seal it to stop the leaks into the bilge.  

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5 hours ago, JEM said:

I installed a Lumitec Newt LED bait well light in my aft center bait well this past Saturday.  While I was in the well, I ran a bead of caulk around the top of the tub hoping to seal it to stop the leaks into the bilge.  

Good idea!  I need to seal the top of mine as well.

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I have had my 2nd generation, Bluetooth MK Ulterra for two years with total trouble free service.  The exception being that the white paint started flaking off the lower unit........the motor.   Knowing that my 2 year warranty was up in January, I called MK and found out they will replace the lower unit (the motor) under warranty.   Shazam!  Soooo, I arranged to ship the motor to Master Repair in Stuart, my installing dealer.  I got it back yesterday.  They did me right!!!!!  It included a new shaft and a new lift motor.  Essentially a brand new troller.  Sometimes, it pays to buy from and let a brick and mortar shop install!  

I can’t recommend Master Repair highly enough!

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Had a actuator go bad last year the night before I was leaving for a keys trip.  Ended up running a 3/4" bolt through it so it would clunk every start and stop.  Being lazy I'm just getting around to fixing it.  Installed a new actuator today bleed the brakes and tested.  Both actuators on the driver side lock up other side worked perfect.  I was thinking of rebuilding them but can't even get the piston out.     

 

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Got the boat back from the shop after having 9 years of accumulated oyster rash repaired on the hull, and a new intake cheese grater installed.  Old one bent back after screw heads rusted off.

 

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3 hours ago, all wet said:

Got the boat back from the shop after having 9 years of accumulated oyster rash repaired on the hull, and a new intake cheese grater installed.  Old one bent back after screw heads rusted off.

 

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do you mind telling us what it cost to get the bottom of the boat fixed? mines an 01 and looks similar lol one too many oyster bars

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16 minutes ago, Fsu11 said:

do you mind telling us what it cost to get the bottom of the boat fixed? mines an 01 and looks similar lol one too many oyster bars

x2 - have always wondered what that would cost.   Even a ball park.   

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4 hours ago, whichwaysup said:

x2 - have always wondered what that would cost.   Even a ball park.   

Around $2500.  I would think you could get cheaper if you're in an area with more shops and can get multiple quotes.  I was hoping for around $1500 but bit the bullet anyway.

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I spend between $200 and $500 a year fixing little dings and scratches on the hull sides and bottom.  I figure it is easier (to come up with a couple of hundred bucks) to keep up with every year than letting it get to be a big deal and big money.

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What’s the process for fixing the scratches on the bottom? I’m fairly handy with gel coat but I’ve never thought about repairing my oyster rash. Could you just roll entire bottom or between a couple strakes, wet sand and then buff/wax? I have the ability to hang my boat with 2 Forklift’s at my shop for a weekend so I could access it without the trailer in the way

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I restored a 17 whaler for a guy. The bottom was very scratched up. I filled the lines with 3m premium and then painted awlgrip. I would think filling would have to be done prior to gel coat. 

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replacing trailer hubs and cleaning up surface rust on the axle.   A little grinding and scraping, rust converter and paint and I think the axle will go a few more years.   

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18 hours ago, all wet said:

Around $2500.  I would think you could get cheaper if you're in an area with more shops and can get multiple quotes.  I was hoping for around $1500 but bit the bullet anyway.

Where did you get the work done. I live in NE Fl and have to deal with "the rash".

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On ‎2‎/‎5‎/‎2019 at 8:00 PM, Sunstone said:

Had a actuator go bad last year the night before I was leaving for a keys trip.  Ended up running a 3/4" bolt through it so it would clunk every start and stop.  Being lazy I'm just getting around to fixing it.  Installed a new actuator today bleed the brakes and tested.  Both actuators on the driver side lock up other side worked perfect.  I was thinking of rebuilding them but can't even get the piston out.     

 

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Put the brake hose back on the caliper and pump the brakes (actuator) manually. The pressure exerted by the brake fluid will push the piston out enough so you can get some pliers on the edge of the piston and remove it. 

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Sent my gal for a spa vacation today.

washed, checked all electronics, lighting, pumps, clean and UV protection on all upholstery and so on yesterday.

spa vacation,

bottompaint, complete detailing, clean deck drain lines, complete motor maintenance, tab zincs, remove old and install new Garmin 74cv gps. 

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6 hours ago, mdemott said:

Where did you get the work done. I live in NE Fl and have to deal with "the rash".

I had it done on the gulf coast in Inglis.  If you're in NE FL anywhere near Jax there should be lots of places to get some quotes that might be closer to you.

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6 hours ago, SCFD rtrd. said:

Put the brake hose back on the caliper and pump the brakes (actuator) manually. The pressure exerted by the brake fluid will push the piston out enough so you can get some pliers on the edge of the piston and remove it. 

I read to use compressed air in the fitting and they said it would pop out, Not.  Had to use a large pry bar to even get the piston in enough to remove the caliper from the disc.

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Got the axle fixed up and repainted, new hubs on.  Used CRC cold galvanized paint, will see how it does.  Sprayed springs with lanolin lube, apparently does wonders for extending their life.  Probably need to replace tires . . .  never ends!

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More progress on the trailer.  Polished the entire frame, grphnd down a few minor rust spots on the winch, lubed everything that moves, then coated with sharkhide.   Btw, had great luck with Sonuus aluminum cleaner.  Not sure what it does, exactly, but it makes old aluminum look new.

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One out of my three trolling motor batteries showed to be bad. I could not bring myself to put one new battery in with two old batteries. So now she has fresh pack.

 

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