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1995 Hewes Redfisher 18


Fishe

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Hi All,

I'll start if off by saying great forum. Everyone seems to love their Hewes. I also noticed we have more of us on here than the "others". I like that.

I grew up in Palm City, Fl and now I live in Bluffton, SC. Fishing had been part of me my whole life and hopefully this boat will be too. I'm putting her up on here so I can get some feedback. I love looking at the pics of other boats and compiling my wish lists. It won't be all at once but some upgrades are a comin, including a camera that can take some better pics. Thanks in advance, love this forum.

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addiction is a great word. I'm looking into a new trailer as well. I need a new axel and the brackets are all rusted out. Plus, I have no fenders.... I believe I have a good boat to start with, but it's definitely just the start. any and all ideas are welcome! thanks for the compliments.

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Welcome to the Forum - another Lappy Lover!

4 speakers? somebody either likes their music loud of you have discovered a new way to raise fish.

Noted starboard side, aft, appears a rise on the deck where steering comes out? Just changed my engine and had to replace the steering - that would be nice to protect the side-mount tele flex. Was this standard in 1995?

Noted 4 rod holder tubes - I have only 2 and would love more. Anybody created additional space for rods?

Nice boat - enjoy the project and more so enjoy using her.

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Welcome to the Forum - another Lappy Lover!

4 speakers? somebody either likes their music loud of you have discovered a new way to raise fish.

Noted starboard side, aft, appears a rise on the deck where steering comes out? Just changed my engine and had to replace the steering - that would be nice to protect the side-mount tele flex. Was this standard in 1995?

Noted 4 rod holder tubes - I have only 2 and would love more. Anybody created additional space for rods?

Nice boat - enjoy the project and more so enjoy using her.

Speakers are for the days at the sandbar. They are definitely loud enough to try to raise some fish, however I have only tried the more traditional methods of line and hook.

Not sure if rise in the deck was standard. I think I've seen them before in other redfishers. I need a new cable cover for the fuel line and steering coming out of there. Mine is all fraid. Any suggestions?

The 4 rod holders were there when I got the boat from my friend. I'm not sure if they were standard or not. I know there have been several times that I've used them all in one trip. What engine did you put on? What boat? I would love to have a newer motor, Johnson is getting me there and back for now though.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Question:

I know there have been several guys on here to rewire their consoles, hopefully I can get a couple of opinions on this. I want to clean up the wiring in the console, replace three gauges, as well as replace the fuse block. Is it necessary or beneficial to take the console off to do this? I would like to leave the throttle and steering alone. Thoughts?

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Question:

I know there have been several guys on here to rewire their consoles, hopefully I can get a couple of opinions on this. I want to clean up the wiring in the console, replace three gauges, as well as replace the fuse block. Is it necessary or beneficial to take the console off to do this? I would like to leave the throttle and steering alone. Thoughts?

If you're doing anything more than minor wiring work, 100% yes, without a doubt, take the console out. Your work will be much cleaner, you'll be more likely to take your time and not get frustrated, and most of all, you won't have to stand on your head to do it. These consoles are tiny.

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I replaced fuse block, added a ground buss and put in tiewrap blocks to route and secure wiring. Put in starboard to mount everything to also.

I did not remove console to do it but i have the seat hatch in console front that greatly helped access.

Would i do it again without removing console, NO!!! It took longer and laying,stretching contorting yourself is no fun. Also you can take the console inside so weather doesn't stop work.

You will get a better result with less stress by removing it.

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All of the grounds come up into the console in the wiring bundle into the white pin connectors then thru a jumper on the connector to 1 wire to the ground on the fuse block from the factory.

I had some connection/corrosion issues in the connectors.

The more connections in the line = more problems.

Also remember you still have a ground from batt. to fuse block so you have another conn. there.

I took all the grounds in the wiring that comes up into console and put them on a ground buss on the starbord wall of the console and the 1 wire direct to the batt.

You eliminate about 12 wires running up farther into concole and 2 addional connections on each of those wires.

You can run 1 wire to the fuse block to ground it so any grounds that are in a cable such as a chartplotter don,t have to come across console

Now make 1 bundle of the hot wires from the switches to the components and 1 bundle of hots from switches to fuse block.

All this really cleans up the wiring under there and makes it easier to see what goes where.

Leave enough slack so you can pull out switchplate so you can work on them.

Use the Blue Seas fuse and ground blocks with the screw terminals. Much better connections than the push on spade conn.

Less connections good conn. and neat layout of wires is why i did what i did!!!

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All of the grounds come up into the console in the wiring bundle into the white pin connectors then thru a jumper on the connector to 1 wire to the ground on the fuse block from the factory.

I had some connection/corrosion issues in the connectors.

The more connections in the line = more problems.

Also remember you still have a ground from batt. to fuse block so you have another conn. there.

I took all the grounds in the wiring that comes up into console and put them on a ground buss on the starbord wall of the console and the 1 wire direct to the batt.

You eliminate about 12 wires running up farther into concole and 2 addional connections on each of those wires.

You can run 1 wire to the fuse block to ground it so any grounds that are in a cable such as a chartplotter don,t have to come across console

Now make 1 bundle of the hot wires from the switches to the components and 1 bundle of hots from switches to fuse block.

All this really cleans up the wiring under there and makes it easier to see what goes where.

Leave enough slack so you can pull out switchplate so you can work on them.

Use the Blue Seas fuse and ground blocks with the screw terminals. Much better connections than the push on spade conn.

Less connections good conn. and neat layout of wires is why i did what i did!!!

Thank you very much! You wouldn't happen to have any pics of your setup would you? I'm going to post some of my huge rat nest under the console...it's kind of embar***ing :o

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[lightbox]http://www.mbcforum.com/fbbuploads/med_1322708624-gauges.jpg[/lightbox]

I took out console hatch, aft light, live well light, cd player, comp***, throttle, gps, water pressure gauge, trim tab switches and loosened the console from the floor. Taking out the speakers allowed me to actually reach most of everything without standing on my head. I'm thinking I'm going to need to remove the console batter (have 4 on the boat). The hatch was in better shape than I thought. Switch panel is in sad shape. I've been looking online for another but haven't been able to locate one, not from iboats, flounder pounder, etc. Anyone have any suggestions?

Trying to label all the wires/cables as I'm doing so. I also orderd the 12 volt boat bible to help guide me through this project. The deeper I get into it the more I realize that everything needs re-do.

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You have newer trim tab switches so the PO may have pulled new wire for them or put in the setup with a control box inline.

Remove the battery and spray down the inside of the console with salt away then water. let dry and use some battery terminal cleaner ON A RAG and wipe dwn the corrosion on any metal. Then wipe with a wet rag. Then spray corrosion X on the metal parts. Get rid of the corrosion under there.

When you replace the battery get an AGM type.

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You have newer trim tab switches so the PO may have pulled new wire for them or put in the setup with a control box inline.

Remove the battery and spray down the inside of the console with salt away then water. let dry and use some battery terminal cleaner ON A RAG and wipe dwn the corrosion on any metal. Then wipe with a wet rag. Then spray corrosion X on the metal parts. Get rid of the corrosion under there.

When you replace the battery get an AGM type.

Yes, I put Lenco TM's on there in 2005. There is a control box under the console for sure. I remember the old wiring now. As far as the corrosion goes, it's not too bad but bad enough to clean it like you were saying. Thanks for the advice, sounds like you've been there done that.

I don't know if I want to replace the battery under the console or not, I might want to eliminate it for space purposes and weight in general-4 batteries is a lot.

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Here's mine being re-wired in my living room:

[image]http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/6703/img0219qf.jpg[/image]

Flounder Pounder no longer carries the switch panels, but you can get one from Shallow Water Customs in Fort Lauderdale. They can add switches, change labeling, and add pretty much whatever you want. From more than 5' away, you'll never tell the difference between it and a factory panel. Cost me about $100 a year or so ago. Here's a pic:

[image]http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/2623/img0268ch.jpg[/image]

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  • 3 months later...
Here's mine being re-wired in my living room:

[image]http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/6703/img0219qf.jpg[/image]

Flounder Pounder no longer carries the switch panels, but you can get one from Shallow Water Customs in Fort Lauderdale. They can add switches, change labeling, and add pretty much whatever you want. From more than 5' away, you'll never tell the difference between it and a factory panel. Cost me about $100 a year or so ago. Here's a pic:

[image]http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/2623/img0268ch.jpg[/image]

Harley,

I was wondering if you have any other pics, possilby of where your ground and power cables come in. My console had the mounted box on the console hatch that folds in when shut so I'm not sure attaching the fuse and buss on the bottom is the right move for me and maybe keeping them at the top of the console would be better. Advice on that? Great pics by the way, I appreciate everyone's help.

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Harley,

I was wondering if you have any other pics, possilby of where your ground and power cables come in. My console had the mounted box on the console hatch that folds in when shut so I'm not sure attaching the fuse and buss on the bottom is the right move for me and maybe keeping them at the top of the console would be better. Advice on that? Great pics by the way, I appreciate everyone's help.

The ground and power cables come in through the hole in the deck inside the console (battery is inside the stern hatch), and connect to the bottom and the top of the fuse block. I don't have any pics of this, since they weren't connected until the console was back on. However, if I remember in the next couple days, I'll try to stick a camera down in the console.

I mounted them down low because that's the only place where you have any access to it when the console is installed. If you put them further up, you'll be making connections, replacing fuses, etc., all by feel. Also, I mounted a piece of starboard inside the console to screw all of the electric components to. The starboard is held in place by the bolts for the side console rod holders. By doing it this way, there are no visible screws on the outside of the console for the fuse block, battery switch, or bus bar, plus you can screw your wire ties directly to the starboard.

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