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Removable 24v Battery Setup


harbday

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I just upgraded from a 12v trolling motor to a 24v MG Xi5, which means I need to add a second trolley battery.  I'm looking to use Hobo's wiring method but would like to add quick disconnects so I can remove the second trolley batt on days when I don't plan to use the TM.  I was told I could use Anderson quick connect plugs.  Anyone currently doing this?  

I currently have a 4 bank onboard charger and was also told that I could wire 2 charging banks to the cranking battery to decrease charging time.  My diagram reflects this, but let me know if there's any reason not to do it.  Thanks.

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23 minutes ago, fin-addict said:

 

why would you want to keep taking the battery in and out if you don't mind me asking.;), fin

 

Fair question.  It will stay on the majority of the time.  I only have a 90hp and have loaded my boat with a poling platform, jack plate, and soon trim tabs and a power pole.  It would be nice to shed the extra 60lbs when family cruising as that usually entails more people, ice and drinks on board.

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8 minutes ago, polliwog said:

I don't think the extra battery will make much difference.  Why not just get optima or Oddessey  gel batteries that are lighter and be done with it. I hate moving batteries. 

Thanks, polliwog.

I currently run Group27s for house and 12v trolley.  Would one D34 or D34M typically be enough to power a house system all day (Livewell, stereo, Lowrance HDS9, trim tabs, powerpole, jackplate, bilge)?  The 90 only has a small stator charger (can't find charging amperage right now).  I do have a battery switch though.

 

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I would agree that one good 24/27 group should run all of those devices.  The only one that really uses constant power is the livewell.  You also can carry a portable lithium jump starter just in case.  They can be had for 50-70 bucks and will start any outboard.  I carry one just for safety.  BTW they weigh about 1 lb.,maybe.

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