Chopski Posted April 5, 2017 Report Share Posted April 5, 2017 I'm going to be in the market for a new trolling motor soon. Eyeing the MG Xi5. Have a 24v Minn Kota now and works good but if I'm buying a new one I wanna do it right. Thinking the extra thrust and longer run time would be nice. I currently have 2 dedicated trolling batteries and 2 house batteries. If I went 36v I would want to run obviously 3 trolling batteries with a dedicated house and then one of the trolling motor batteries hooked up to the other side of a 1/2/both switch for emergencies and probably the stealth charger. Thoughts? Like the pic but with an extra battery for 36v Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zfactor Posted April 6, 2017 Report Share Posted April 6, 2017 Not sure where you got the schematic from. But it seems to me like everything is correct except for the part where you need power from one of the trolling motors as a back up cranking battery. Looks like your pulling a 24v wire to the selector #2 (same as your 24v trolling motor) Im pretty certain it should be pulled from the other positive terminal that is 12v. According to that diagram you would be pulling 24 and could damage your engine with 24 volts. Not certain but some of the guys here could clarify/validate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopski Posted April 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2017 My understanding is as long as I take the ground and positive from the same battery in what will end up being my 36v system it will only provide 12v. Anyone have experience with the stealth systems or what they cost? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigsnook35 Posted April 6, 2017 Report Share Posted April 6, 2017 The stealth system will isolate one of the trolling batteries as an emergency back up. The owner will explain the wiring over the phone as you as doing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zfactor Posted April 6, 2017 Report Share Posted April 6, 2017 17 minutes ago, Chopski said: My understanding is as long as I take the ground and positive from the same battery in what will end up being my 36v system it will only provide 12v. Anyone have experience with the stealth systems or what they cost? How can that be when your TM positive terminal is providing 24v to your trolling motor? Just get it verified. Doesn't seem right to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopski Posted April 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2017 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nauti Posted April 6, 2017 Report Share Posted April 6, 2017 8 hours ago, Zfactor said: How can that be when your TM positive terminal is providing 24v to your trolling motor? Just get it verified. Doesn't seem right to me. That schematic is the way my boat is setup. As long as the pos and neg come from the same battery it'll be 12v. When the pos comes from one battery and the neg from the other (connecting in series) you double the voltage to 24. Chopski, are you running 2 in the console and 2 under the hatch or does your year have a different setup? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linesider 159 Posted April 6, 2017 Report Share Posted April 6, 2017 13 hours ago, Chopski said: My understanding is as long as I take the ground and positive from the same battery in what will end up being my 36v system it will only provide 12v. Anyone have experience with the stealth systems or what they cost? You are correct. I did accidentally hook my motor up to 24 volts and you should have heard that trim motor scream at 2x speed. Scared me to death I was fine with 24 volt on my 21, but a 36 is always better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopski Posted April 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2017 I bet. Ya 24v wasn't bad but how could 36v not be better. Trying to find someone with a 21 running a 36v with that set up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polliwog Posted April 6, 2017 Report Share Posted April 6, 2017 I will throw another very different solution to the issue, just get a mini jumper battery. They have all the power you need if you end up with a house battery run down. Keep the 36v in series and the isolated 12v for the house. I have one of these lithium jobs and it is great. 60-70 bucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mulligan Posted April 6, 2017 Report Share Posted April 6, 2017 I run a 36 on my 21 and have a trolling motor battery as backup. I can let you know the difference between a 24 and 36 as my new trolling motor came in last night and I hope to try it over the weekend, new motor is a 24 volt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smilemaker Posted April 7, 2017 Report Share Posted April 7, 2017 Chopski's diagram is spot on for a system with a common ground where battery 1 is used for the 12volt source. Some people prefer to have a common positive in which case battery 3 uses its positive and negative to provide 12volts. I feel that Chopski's common negative is by far safer as the 36volt positive can be safely isolated and used only for the trolling motor. As for charge on the run systems I realize most people here like the Stealth system but it has an inherent weak spot in that the trolling batteries are always in series so if you only have use of one battery for your 12volt system. If you look at the Yandina trollbridge 24 system you will see that it allows the batteries to switch from 24 series to 12 volt parallel. A fellow member Boatronics here also has a system to allow switching from 12 to 24 volt system. I am going from 24 to 36 volt trolling motor and talked with Yandina today and they have a new 36 trollbridge coming out in a couple of weeks that should be awesome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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