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RobVan

2000 17T

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Here are a few shots of my 17T. I wish I had taken a few "before" shots as this boat was a mess when I bought it. It lived outside, uncovered, unwashed, and very rough around the edges. After lots of scrubbing, gelcoat repair on the deck and hull, compounding and buffing, it has a new lease on life.

I have added quite a few accessories - Wang Anchor, casting platform, pull up cleats, Stiffy hybrid push pole, GPS/chartplotter, Stiffy cavitation plate, water pressure guage, rod holders, cushions, Tibor pole caddy, Racor fuel filter, and other bling.

I also replaced much of the wiring, including moving the (new) battery to the console, adding a battery switch, and replacing the fuse block.

I really love this boat and use it as much or more than my 22. I can't believe how shallow it will run, gets up in a foot of water, poles skinny, and will run in the mid 30's with the F50 (I saw 37 on the GPS this past weekend running downwind in a light chop). Best bang for the buck on the water!

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Oldsalt - The tubing is for the water pressure guage. I suppose I could cut it however it has a compression fitting on the end with a crimp. And yes, the Starboard side does say "Fins to the Right". I am a hardcore parrothead...

AUstevo - I use the jack plate a lot of the time. I need to have it at about 3" or lower for the shallow water hole shot but can run the motor almost all the way up and still maintain good water pressure on a plane - with only the motor skeg sticking below the bottom of the hull. I do need to have the jack plate all the way down to be able to tilt the motor under the platform when poling or at the dock overnight. I will also get some blowout in hard turns unless the motor is all the way down. One other thing - I also need to run the plate up to 3" or 4" to get max RPM out of the motor for top end speed.

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Good question and unfortunately I don't know. I am able to spin the motor close to 6K (using the motor trim and jackplate) and the hole shot and top end is decent so I haven't felt the need to tinker with the prop.

I will measure the wheel the next time I use the boat - good idea in case I ever need to replace it. I'll post the measurement.

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im curious if your 50 is around the same size as a later 60 fourstroke. im looking to put one on my 17t with the stock poling platform and wondering if ill be able to trim the motor all the way up because it looks like the cowling is bigger than on a 60 2 stroke

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Your prop will be stamped either on the outside or inside. My Yamaha prop is stamped on the inside. It will usually have a number and a letter.

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Buckjames - Not sure how the F50 compare to the 60 in physical size. I can run the motor all the way up on the jackplate but once I trim up more than a few inches the cowling will hit the platform (I added a small strip of seadek under the back edge of the poling platform to keep from scratching the top of the motor).

In order for me to trim the motor all the way out of the water, I have to lower the jackplate all the way down. This does take some getting used to and I have (finally :blush: ) learned to look back when trimming the motor up in shallow water.

Old Salt - thanks for the tip. I do remember seeing a number stamped on the hub, just can't remember what it is (gettin old).

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