whiskeybravo Posted January 22, 2017 Report Share Posted January 22, 2017 New to me 02 Pathfinder 2200-v with a 150Vmax 0X66. (Still chasing prop issue, couldn't decide if this question belonged over in prop forum..) Reverse thrust almost non-existent. Dumps in reverse fine, 1st little bit of throttle seems ok, then with a little more throttle almost feels like it ventilates and all but stops like you've thrown out a big sea anchor. No evidence it is venting from surface (no sucking whirlpool), even if trimmed up a little. Throttle not the prob- it will turn up in reverse far as you want. Have a new 4-blade I was trying out, so not a hub issue- Performed same with the 3-blade that was on when I got it. mechanic buddy rode with me and said he'd never seen this prob. I suggested it seemed like maybe clutch slipping or something, but he's saying that's not how it works; it's gears and if they were slipping or not fully engaging I'd know it- making an awful racket. Only thing(s) I can think are hull design; is thrust kicking back from prop "pocket" on these models? Doesn't seem likely- still does it if I trim up to direct thrust down a little (and I would think I would be hearing about it). Or, could it be prop ventilating from exhaust gas through hub? Also doesn't seem likely just because I've had/been on many boats that will jump out of water in reverse (and again, why am I not hearing about it?). plan to keep on drive-on boat lift, but no way that will work as is.. you'd have to completely float this thing to get her off a trailer. Not to mention safety issue- definitely need to be able to back down! any suggestions? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hurricane Posted January 22, 2017 Report Share Posted January 22, 2017 That is a problem on those boats, it's the pocket. I had pathfinder, and always had to trim up to get good reverse power. I don't think mine was as bad as you describe, but it did happen and others have mentioned it as will. I had a 200vmax with low water pickup lower unit, so maybe that was some of the difference. Other than then pocket effect, maybe the prop needs some work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whiskeybravo Posted January 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2017 Thanks hurricane. Was thinking abt a fixed position jack plate to help with a running ventilation prob anyway... maybe setback and/or lowering a little might kill both birds..? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miss Jazzy Posted January 22, 2017 Report Share Posted January 22, 2017 Yes the Pathy's do not back very well. Best solution is lower the motor as far as possible(with jack plate) and tilt the motor up so as the water will go down and under the stern instead of up into the pocket. Also four blades are worse than three when in reverse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whiskeybravo Posted January 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2017 Ugh, ok, thanks. I was playing with props to resolve a handling issue- ventilating in easy turns and any trim other than all the way down- told going to four blades would resolve, and seems much better. Guess I'll throw a plate on there, if still not enough backing power, see if 3 blade / jack plate is a reasonable compromise.. anybody out there with the 2200/150 v-6 care to jump in? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hurricane Posted January 22, 2017 Report Share Posted January 22, 2017 It sounds like maybe the motor is to high. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JEM Posted January 22, 2017 Report Share Posted January 22, 2017 I have a 2007 2200V with a F150 on a 6 inch Atlas jackplate. I am running a Powertech 4 blade, 17 pitch. I have no problems with reverse thrust. I feel like when I goose it a little, it stops forward momentum on a dime around the dock. That is really the only time I need instant reverse thrust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whiskeybravo Posted January 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2017 Roger. If you were me, and were to try a manual jack plate (not interested in another electric/hydraulic system to maintain), how much setback would you go for? CMC (for instance) has a 5.5" or 10" setback... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whiskeybravo Posted January 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2017 Thinking 10" may compromise dry deck- cantilever engine weight that far back I may be standing in water. Doesn't take much weight aft as-is... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JEM Posted January 22, 2017 Report Share Posted January 22, 2017 Mine is 6 inch. I would do 5.5 inch rather than 10 inch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geeviam Posted January 22, 2017 Report Share Posted January 22, 2017 The CMC, ML-65 Manual Jack Plate, 5 1/2” setback, #65012 is a great JP because it allows more downward adjustment than others. CMC also makes a 2.5" static setback/spacer #65213 that's a perfect fit with the 5.5" JP. That would allow you to adjust the motor down as much as you need and still allow the motor to tilt up all the way and clear the top of the transom. I use a similar setup on my Redfisher and it works well. You could try the 5.5" setback first and see how you like it. I think 10" setback is too much, but an 8" setback would work well and eliminate the prop venting issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hurricane Posted January 22, 2017 Report Share Posted January 22, 2017 I don't think a manual Jack plate is worth it, I don't see any advantage to manual on a big bay boat. I think any lift you gain in motor height will be lost in draft by moving the weight back. Buy a used hydro atleast 6". Don't think a Jack plate is the best fix for reverse issue, I would try a different prop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geeviam Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 1 hour ago, hurricane said: I don't think a manual Jack plate is worth it, I don't see any advantage to manual on a big bay boat. I think any lift you gain in motor height will be lost in draft by moving the weight back. Buy a used hydro atleast 6". Don't think a Jack plate is the best fix for reverse issue, I would try a different prop. I agree, trying a different prop would be the best first step to fix the reverse issue. My JP is hydraulic and it's a nice option to have. However, I only use the hydraulics on rare occasions for hole-shot in shallow water or for slow operation in shallow water. Most of the time, the JP stays all the way down where the prop gets more bite and less slippage. I get the best top speed with the JP bottomed out and motor trimmed up for max bow lift. I could live with a manual JP if budget was a factor. For me, setback and getting the prop back into cleaner water is the important part. Btw, there was a noticeable improvement in my boat's reverse maneuverability at the dock with the JP setback and lower motor height. I think the transom pocket on my boat was catching and deflecting thrust as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fin-addict Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 I have an 03 2200v w/150 vmax hpdi, 3 blade prop. never noticed a problem with reverse. kept in water at dock. docking, forward then little reverse and swings right into place between mooring whips. no jp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smilemaker Posted January 25, 2017 Report Share Posted January 25, 2017 Don't forget to have trim tabs all the way up. If they are down they will act as a brake when in reverse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whiskeybravo Posted January 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2017 Thanks all, Jack plate on the way- will update when I get to try it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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