MPFit Posted December 9, 2016 Report Share Posted December 9, 2016 I've got an 06 Hewes RF18. The powerpole bolts onto the transom starboard side to the right and above the trim tabs on the transom. Before I start drilling the holes- I can't seem to find a good way to get access past the trim tab inside the bildge. Anyone else do this on their own or am I in need of some extra long specialized tools?! Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MPFit Posted December 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2016 After looking at the bolts, I'm assuming the starboard hatch where the battery is, is actually on the transom? Bolts look long enough to go through both the transom and the hatch. Which would make bolting simple.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slyshon Posted December 9, 2016 Report Share Posted December 9, 2016 When in doubt through bolt. Skip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MPFit Posted December 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2016 Well said! Lol Thats the plan then. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck59 Posted December 9, 2016 Report Share Posted December 9, 2016 I used some longer bolts on my 2003 Redfisher 16 and reinforced with the spacers provided by JL Marine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polliwog Posted December 9, 2016 Report Share Posted December 9, 2016 I don't know if the redfisher is made on the same type of structure as the Light tackle, if it is there is a gap between the interior of battery compartment and the transom. My poling platform attached to the transom started to leak and was onlyattached by lag bolts. Boat yard drilled 2inch holes in the inner liner to allow through bolting of the platform. You may find you need to do the same thing to thru bolt direct to the transom. I wouldn't want to thru bolt between the inner core and the outer transom space gap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaxBluFin Posted December 10, 2016 Report Share Posted December 10, 2016 Be careful, I just drilled mine in same location and took out my bilge hose. I had to cut an access in the battery box to fix the hose and to tighten the nuts down. There is a void between box and transom. I didn't want to take a chance of it braking the battery box and doing damage. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MPFit Posted December 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2016 Yea I felt the void. Think I'm gonna just go to a powerpole dealership for installation... seems like a pretty big headache with the transom mount. And the poling platform doesn't help with a bracket install. I'll see what the guys recommend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryH Posted December 10, 2016 Report Share Posted December 10, 2016 My powerpole was installed at the factory. I assume it's through bolted. But how they do it is a mystery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fin-addict Posted December 10, 2016 Report Share Posted December 10, 2016 my installer said he would install a small pie plate to bolt directly to transom due to the void. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capt. Troy Posted December 10, 2016 Report Share Posted December 10, 2016 3 hours ago, fin-addict said: my installer said he would install a small pie plate to bolt directly to transom due to the void. This is what I did on my 99 MA. The New MA was done at the factory and it appears it was accessed behind the battery switch. There is a void and you need to get behind the liner to properly mount the PP. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linesider 159 Posted December 10, 2016 Report Share Posted December 10, 2016 Assuming you have a jackplate, why not save the trouble and just do a jackplate bracket? Even then the sandwich bracket is still nice instead of drilling holes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JEM Posted December 10, 2016 Report Share Posted December 10, 2016 1 hour ago, linesider 159 said: Assuming you have a jackplate, why not save the trouble and just do a jackplate bracket? Even then the sandwich bracket is still nice instead of drilling holes X2. The fewer holes in the hull, the better! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MPFit Posted December 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2016 No jack plate. Engine bracket is out also due to Poling Platform. So I'm gonna revisit the installation tomorrow. After thinking, new plan is to create an access panel in the battery box to achieve access to the transom. Will save the cutout and put a rim around it and some screws to create the 'panel'. Remove battery, will need an extra set of hands to hold pole, install bolts, and hold the back nuts on inside of transom. The cost of install is just crazy to me considering how easy they actually are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted December 11, 2016 Report Share Posted December 11, 2016 You can make a small plate to reinforce on the transom...I used large pieces of starboard with lots of 5200 IMG_0601 by Dino Cardelli, on Flickr On the T you had to go through the deck. IMG_0575 by Dino Cardelli, on Flickr DC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MPFit Posted December 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2016 Yes I already made a plate out of aluminum and predrilled holes. Will 5200 it once location is decided. I'll probably be mounting mine lower than normal at just above the water line. Keeping 4" above bottom per powerpole; I'm going to try and keep top of pole level with top of poling platform for garage clearance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted December 11, 2016 Report Share Posted December 11, 2016 1 hour ago, MPFit said: Yes I already made a plate out of aluminum and predrilled holes. Will 5200 it once location is decided. I'll probably be mounting mine lower than normal at just above the water line. Keeping 4" above bottom per powerpole; I'm going to try and keep top of pole level with top of poling platform for garage clearance. You can always lower the PP slightly when entering the garage dc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MPFit Posted December 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2016 I know, but per powerpole it doesn't hurt anything to be at waterline, or closer to it (I think I'll have half an inch clearance) as long as I make the 4" clearance from bottom of boat (for handling reasons they said). I'll be 5inch above top of trim tab gap, 6inch above hull bottom per my current planned location. It's still an easy inch or two below hull ID plate common location for mounting. will be doing it today most likely and I'll throw some pics of what I find. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linesider 159 Posted December 11, 2016 Report Share Posted December 11, 2016 Dont use 5200. Use 4200 or silicone. You wont be able to get the powerpole off should you need to in the future. 5200 is meant for permanent installs only. 5200 can actually rip the gelcoat off when it is removed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbum321 Posted December 11, 2016 Report Share Posted December 11, 2016 agree with 5200 I bolted mine to the integrated plate in the hull of my HPX micro drilled tapped etc. only use 5200 to seal around bolts do not bond it down with 5200. I used pure silicone for the interface AND 5200 on the bolts. I removed mine once to add a shim to get it vertical(it was a PP micro) but no issue removing would likely not have be so easy to remove with 5200. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyfishinglife Posted December 11, 2016 Report Share Posted December 11, 2016 I recently installed through hull mounting for my 6' PP on an 01' HPX T. I used 316 threaded stainless rod, couldn't find 13" stainless bolts, plus starboard and aluminum plate backing. I originally installed the 6' PP in 2007 through the transom only. Wish I had gone through the hull then. I was getting spider cracks in the gel coat around the PP base. Like Sly said, when in doubt through bolt. On using 5200. I used 5200 on the PP base on my original install in 07'. Marine Formula Debond softened it right up and I was able to remove it easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GatorJ Posted December 11, 2016 Report Share Posted December 11, 2016 Power Pole makes various sizes of engine mount brackets to compensate if additional side and aft offsets are needed to cleat the poling platform. Worked like a charm for mounting my 8ft Power Pole. Got lots of clearance from the poling platform, and no additional holes in the hull. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MPFit Posted December 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2016 Thanks for all the input guys! Install went smooth. Need some 5200 touch up later on the hydraulic lines going through transom. Then zip tie the sleeve. A hole drill took care of access issue. Two second fix as well. Cleaned up the box a little with battery out. Soldered some connections that looked bad- re-greased (dielectric) the terminals and all that fun stuff. Worked perfectly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted December 12, 2016 Report Share Posted December 12, 2016 Nice job..well done.. dc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted December 12, 2016 Report Share Posted December 12, 2016 Quote On using 5200. I used 5200 on the PP base on my original install in 07'. Marine Formula Debond softened it right up and I was able to remove it easily. Yes, the same for me....to be honest, hard to tell sometimes between 5200 and 4200... Debond and some 100 lb braid will cut right through it.... dc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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