Mac7 Posted December 8, 2016 Report Share Posted December 8, 2016 I bought this boat two weeks ago and want to fix her up. I am removing my poling platform and want to have a new one fabricated that the rear pads mount to the vertical transom gussets. My existing platform has stress cracks around the pads that are mounted flat to the deck and I want to have that repaired because of the cracks. I called Maverick and could not get a clear answer about where the aluminum backer plates are located and if I can safely mount the new platform the way I want it. I can feel flex in the transom gussets and do not feel comfortable mounting the rear pads there but I see so many hulls just like mine with them mounted this way. Is there some special way to reinforce the gussets to mount there and maintain structural integrity? The first photo is one from the web and how I want to mount mine. The second photo is my boat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whichwaysup Posted December 8, 2016 Report Share Posted December 8, 2016 oh man, that's a nice sled! Congrats on the new purchase! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishmanjj Posted December 9, 2016 Report Share Posted December 9, 2016 That's a sweet rig ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyfishinglife Posted December 11, 2016 Report Share Posted December 11, 2016 I also have an 01' HPX T. I just took a look at my transom and it looks like you could through bolt your poling platform feet on the transom gussets. At least it appears that way looking at the position of the feet in your photo. I agree just screwing bolts into the gussets would not be a good idea, they're not very rigid. Maybe just foam inside? Even if the gusset mounts held you'd probably get spider cracks in the gel coat around them. That's a good looking set up and solves the problem of the super high factory poling platform on the T's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyfishinglife Posted December 11, 2016 Report Share Posted December 11, 2016 Sorry. You probably intended to through bolt the mount at the gussets. I think you'd be okay if you used a 1/4" aluminum plate backing on the inside surface of the transom gussets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mac7 Posted December 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2016 I appreciate the reply! This is what I intend on doing as well as looking in to the expanding foam to fill the void but I know how that stuff is if you inject it and it expands with nowhere to go. It will cause some major swelling and possibly crack the cap! I may just leave it hollow and through bolt with an aluminum backing plate on the inside of the gussets and use plenty of 5200 to seal the fastener holes up and give it some bite so there is no pad movement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyfishinglife Posted December 12, 2016 Report Share Posted December 12, 2016 I'm pretty sure the void is already filled with foam. I throughout bolted my power pole mount through the transom and it was filled with foam, probably 12" thick. I made some recent improvements to my 01. I replaced the fuse block and replaced a bunch of wiring with the tin coated copper marine wire. My onboard charger gave out and I replaced with a Noco Genius. Very compact and light and probably enough for my single trolling motor battery. I don't know if you still have the pop up bow light, but the trolling motor blocks the view do I moved my running lights to the sides of the console. I have a MK bow mount and I just replaced the Marinco plug with a Battery Tender plug in, light years better. I mounted the plug on starboard over the cutout where the pop up bow light was. This way I can easily pop the the trolling motor off for trailering or security. I trailer to Florida all the way from Maryland. I'm not sure but I may have the only HPX T in MD. My last three serial numbers are 034, which I think means it was number 34 built. What's yours? I've owned this boat since 2003, and repowered with an F70 Yamaha last spring. Give me a call if you want and you might be able to benefit from what I've learned about this boat, good and the mistakes I've made: Ken at 240-321-1495. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mac7 Posted December 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2016 The last 3 digits of my serial number are 001! I will give you a call, it would be good to discuss the boat with another '01 owner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JarodC17 Posted December 12, 2016 Report Share Posted December 12, 2016 I am also an '01 HPX-T owner in the process of a facelift on my boat. I'd like to get in on some of this feedback too. Going to take it out pretty soon to get some prop numbers, I think I need a different wheel. Also had to pull of rubrail and caulk hull to deck joint because she was taking on water. Put new rubrail on it this weekend and she's ready to go. Jarod Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mac7 Posted December 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2016 I am definitely going to a 3 blade with double or triple cup so I can get hole shot and more top end. I currently have a 4 blade Powertech that is giving break neck hole shot but only 27mph. I know this hull will run 36-38 with a three blade because my buddy has a newer HPX-T that runs 38 with a F70. The cap to hull joint is notorious for letting water in at speed, they need to be sealed all the way around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyfishinglife Posted December 13, 2016 Report Share Posted December 13, 2016 I'm running a four blade Power Tek prop, which was on the original two stroke 70 Yamaha engine. I put it on the new F70 and couldn't get over 5000 rpm. Had the pitch changed at a shop in Ft Myers. They knew what to do and she'll tach 5500 with a real good hole shot now. I think they went from a 14 pitch to a 16 but can't recall exactly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JarodC17 Posted December 13, 2016 Report Share Posted December 13, 2016 I'm running the same prop Mac, but my tach was broken, just replaced it Saturday. I'm going to try to get out this week to get some numbers on it. It's funny you say you're getting a good hole shot, because I am not, that's what I'm trying to figure out. Been talking with Marcus at Powertech, I'm thinking I'll end up with a 3 blade as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mac7 Posted December 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2016 Trying to reply to both of you guys so bare with me! The 4 stroke F70 and 2 stroke 70TLRZ are two different animals. The 4 stroke can run 800 rpm more but lacks the low end torque of the 2 stroke. Props will be completely different. I had Jack Foreman build my prop for my last aluminum poling skiff I made and he put a 3 blade triple cup on my 90ELPTO. He designed props for Powertech and has been in the prop business for longer than I have been alive. You may not be getting the hole shot with the 4 blade if the prop is worn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryH Posted December 14, 2016 Report Share Posted December 14, 2016 Enjoyable thread. To the OP: Consider sleeving the through bolts between the mounting plates. At proper length the torque when tightening the bolts will be on the sleeve and not the fiberglass/gel coat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mac7 Posted December 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2016 That is a great idea! Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyfishinglife Posted December 14, 2016 Report Share Posted December 14, 2016 I should have mentioned that I also sleeved the through bolts for my power pole mount, for that same reason. I had already installed a 5" dia access plate on the inside of the transom for my original install, so I was able to get in there and clear out the foam and position the sleeves, which were just 1/2" rigid plastic pipe. But they serve the purpose and prevent the mounting bolts from pulling the outboard and inboard surfaces toward each other. Probably not the clearest description. After I had the mounting bolts though the transom and sleeves I refilled the void with a spray foam product. Then I covered my access hole with 3/4" starboard and then a 1/4" aluminum plate drilled out for the bolts. I also used 3/4" starboard under the PP base on the outside, just to spread the stress out a little on the outboard side of the transom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mac7 Posted December 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2016 Clear as a bell! I can definitely sleeve my bolts to avoid cracking the gelcoat and make the mount more solid. Thanks for the tip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mac7 Posted December 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2016 Jarod and I have been exchanging information for the past few days since we have the same boat. We both noticed that the sponsons on these hulls hold water and there is no way to drain it unless drain plugs are added. Does anyone else have this experience? I believe I am going to follow in his footsteps and install a Gemlux stainless steel garboard drain on each sponson to keep them drained and dry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mac7 Posted January 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2017 Well both of us found that the foam in the sponsons was saturated and when we removed our transducer screws water ran out for hours. I had over a gallon in both sides and it never stopped dripping so I took Jarod's advice and bought two Gemlux 87000 garboard drains and mounted them on each sponson above the outside chine. The foam is definitely saturated so I think I am going to have to cut access holes and remove all the old foam and then remove my rubrail and run a few tubes of 3M5200 in the crack to seal it all up. What a horrible design flaw to have the sponsons sealed off with no way to drain them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted January 8, 2017 Report Share Posted January 8, 2017 On 1/6/2017 at 10:46 PM, Mac7 said: Well both of us found that the foam in the sponsons was saturated and when we removed our transducer screws water ran out for hours. I had over a gallon in both sides and it never stopped dripping so I took Jarod's advice and bought two Gemlux 87000 garboard drains and mounted them on each sponson above the outside chine. The foam is definitely saturated so I think I am going to have to cut access holes and remove all the old foam and then remove my rubrail and run a few tubes of 3M5200 in the crack to seal it all up. What a horrible design flaw to have the sponsons sealed off with no way to drain them. Yes, it's unfortunate...the only way to stop the intrusion on the older models is to remove the rubrail... I did it on my Skinny mini....took two days....or one "long day". you'll need a good heat gun, drill to remove the screws, and at least 3 large tubes of 5200 or 4200. It will take about 1-2 hours to take off the rail but about 3-4 hours to put it back on. Be sure to have lots of gloves and rags with acetone to clean the over flow goop. Putting the rail back in requires a head gun and you move along about 1-2" at a time. dc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mac7 Posted January 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2017 Yessir, that is the plan. While I am doing that I am installing spray rails and filling some big voids under the gelcoat that are causing gelcoat cracks along the cap above the rubrail the n several places all around the cap. I wasn't expecting all this but I guess it is what it is. From what I gather there is no way to dry out the saturated foam completely so I am considering cutting an access hole in the sponsons and removing the foam then refilling it with expanding foam to keep floatation specs. The only problem with that is the port side livewell is not removeable and hinders access. I am contemplating cutting it out and removing it completely and just using it for storage and an access hatch. I don't see any other way to remove the livewell liner because it looks like it was installed before the cap was glued down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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