Jump to content

Front Hatch, Gas Strut Mounts


Robert3

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Here is a problem that I'm trying to figure out a solution for. I have a 2011 2300HPS, the front hatches (rod locker) have 60lb gas struts and the mount/screws tore right out of the fiberglass on the doors, factory install. The struts were failing so I bought new ones. Now I'm trying to figure out how to attach the strut mount to the bottom of the hatch doors. Factory uses 5 shallow screws and 5200 adhesive, and survived fine till now. 

I tried and moved to the bottom mounts giving me a fresh area to attach the mount. I used new, identical length SS screws, and 5200 adhesive.. Just like factory. 

It wasn't long before the strut mount on the door ripped out the screws taking the mount with it.. Now the other side has torn out as well. Someone mentioned thru bolting them with carriage bolts, but that'll look crappy in the non skid. I'm thinking of using starboard, with 5200 and screws attached to the underside of the door, and then mount the struts to the starboard, with longer screws.. This makes the hatches heavy.  Any comments, better ideas?? Thanks in advance

 

Rob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I assume the picture shows how your gas shocks are attached to your rod locker hatch lids.    They are supposed to have backing material in the hatch lids to prevent the screws from coming out.  The starboard will not do any good as 5200 will not adhere to it.  Actually, using one SS round head, carriage bolt along with 4 other screws might not be a bad idea.  To have one low profile, round headed bolt really shouldn't look that bad in the middle of the hatch lid.  Because the lid is hollow, it is kind of hard to back fill the holes, but that is what I would do, as well as I could.  I might try to use Marine Tex and fill until cured, then fill some more.  I would keep stuffing Marine Tex in the holes until I have enough material in there to drill for the screws.  Beyond that, the only other idea is to get a longer gas shock, which will put you in a new position to attach to the lid.  That would also give the shock more leverage to open the lid, and maybe not as likely to strip the screws out.  Course, there might not be any backing material where it would be attached.  As to the cause of the screws stripping out, if the mounts weren't positioned correctly from the factory, so as to cause the "piston" to be "bottoming" out when closed, that could be forcing the screws to strip out.  Just a thought.......

5994831_20161105095805980_1_LARGE[1].jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Had the same deal on our TE rear hatches. Ended up thru bolting them. Don't like it but I was tired of screwing with it. I am thinking of pulling the bolts back out and hand dipping the heads in oyster white gel coat so they at least  match. Powder coat is the next shot after that. I just know the front hatches will follow.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My guess is that I'll through bolt them, but as JEM has suggested, Use one bolt and the rest screws. Good idea. I have tried moving to new area and changes  to the push angle, it least it lasted a little longer. I ordered the all new struts for the boat from original supplier, not cheap.. and being new, they really have some lifting force! 

I mounted a VHF radio inside the console by, roughing the glass and epoxying starboard to the side, no screws at all. Then mounting the radio to the starboard, with longer screws.. 5200 does adhere to starboard, done correctly. Still it won't work for this application.. to much shearing force. 

Time to sell the boat and upgrade:-) 

THanks for the suggestions and the Pic JEM

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...