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HpX-V 18 Ameratrail Trailer Dry Launch?


Marshfly

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Not sure if they're all this way but if you have a roller on the aft cross member and "zero degree" torsion axles you can do it. The axles will actually be past zero, or negative when the boat is loaded like in the picture. Again not sure if they're all like this but my bunks are set at a pretty good aft slope, I think they drop like 8"-9" front to rear.

Many  people don't see the point in dry launching but I don't see the point in trailer maintenance if you don't need to do it. I replaced a brake light and the bunks when I got this boat 5 years ago and haven't touched the trailer since besides pulling the hubs once a year to look at the bearings (why I don't know, habit I guess). Also if you have aluminum wheels it will keep them from corroding from the lug nuts out (don't even get me started on having to re-wire grounds on a $3000-$5000 boat trailer)

I also replaced the standard 1400lb winch with a 1800lb 2-speed winch, obviously a huge difference. After poling a boat around all day makes all the difference in the world getting back on the trailer.

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That helps a lot. This boat looks low and raked enough for the trailer to be built that way. 

I'm just used to not having to dunk anything with my last boat on the Ramlin and the trailer looked new after 4 years. It'd be nice to do the same with this boat. Do most people use the stock winch or upgrade to a 2 speed or electric to pull the boat back up? I know the HPX is a lot heavier than the Caimen that I had before.

edit: just reread your post, jason and saw where you changed the winch.

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Should be 14" tires on that Ameratrail and it looks like you'll be able to dry launch after you add a roller to the rear crossmember.

It's hard to believe that my axle is only slightly more corroded than Jason p's and I've dunked mine from day 1. And my lights are all original and still work (knock on wood). My trailer is 5 years old now so I'm having Bob @ IMS change the axle next week. Hubs get replaced every 2 years....tires every 3 years....axle every 5 years....no matter what!

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Yeah, mine was dunked for the first 1.5 years of its life under original ownership. I should probably look into replacing my axle as well since I regularly put 100 miles on it per trip.

I asked an Ameratrail guy about replacing it awhile ago and he said don't sweat it. Are you replacing it because of the corrosion, the rubber in the axle tube, or both?

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You guys bring up a good point.

Yesterday, after an 8am seatrial and paper signing in Charleston I started the 850 mile trek to south Louisiana. In Augusta GA I got a flat on the trailer. Thank goodness I was 100 yards from an exit with a Sams Club and Tractor Supply. After the previous owner dunking the hubs for every launch in the boats's 33 hour life the lug nuts were too corroded to the wheels to budge. The guys at Sams were gracious enough to allow me use of a breaker bar to change the tire and I promptly bought a 24" 1/2" breaker bar and socket at Tractor Supply to fit in case it happened again. 

Needless to say, as long as I own the boat the hubs will never see water again. Now, off to find a good 2-speed winch for the trailer.

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I am also curious as to whether ALL ameratrail maverick trailers are dry launch. My sled is a 2016 18 with a 2016 trailer. I do not remember selecting any dry launch option. I have had a hard time learning the proper depth to launch my boat. If i go to shallow the motor is not strong enough to back the boat off the trailer, if i go to deep the nose of the boat gets caught on the trailer. I have never had this problem with any other boat. I am starting to wonder if my trailer was designed for dry launch only.

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sorry to hear it marsh! glad u got it resolved. a little corrosion protection under each lug nut goes a long way whether u dunk the trailer or not. hope ur home safe!

jason- ive seen many axles corrode from the inside and buckle even tho the outside looked brand new. also seen too many avoidable tire and hub failures to count. like u, i too trailer 100+ miles one way during my trips so i just always replace the hubs, tires and axles more often than most. am i paranoid?? somewhat!!

redrippn- sounds like u may need a slight adjustment on the bow roller height? i dunk to launch and my boat slides off easy when the fwd edge of my fender steps are right at water level. 

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18 hours ago, RedfishRippn said:

I am starting to wonder if my trailer was designed for dry launch only.

There's really no such thing, back it in deep enough and the boat will float off. I'd follow Conocean's method as your probably not backing deep enough and drop the bow roller some. It's obviously a moving target depending on water level, ramp angle, etc... If you launch "shallow" I'm assuming hubs not in the water, you need to apply liquid rollers or some sort of silicone or lubricant. I use Gulf Wax made for canning on the bunks, environmentally friendly and you don't spray down everyone else's rigs at the ramp when the wind is blowing. 

DO NOT unhook the boat until your backed down to where you want to launch. 

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On 8/23/2016 at 11:27 AM, RedfishRippn said:

I am also curious as to whether ALL ameratrail maverick trailers are dry launch. My sled is a 2016 18 with a 2016 trailer. I do not remember selecting any dry launch option. I have had a hard time learning the proper depth to launch my boat. If i go to shallow the motor is not strong enough to back the boat off the trailer, if i go to deep the nose of the boat gets caught on the trailer. I have never had this problem with any other boat. I am starting to wonder if my trailer was designed for dry launch only.

Evening Gentlemen- first time poster here and new to the mbg forum as well as a very proud new Maverick owner (2016 18 HPX V). I had the same issues as the above on my first couple of times launching. I spoke with the guys from ameratrail who basically said the trailer was made to power on/off, however if set up with the dual roller on the rear cross member/walkboards/etc, can also be dry launched. There is definitely a right (and wrong) way to launch her, and I was told by ameratrail to put her in where the back of the boat is just floating if not dry launching. Once done, climb aboard and give her just enough in reverse to break it loose. If you back in too deep, as everyone has mentioned above, she'll catch on the lip of the bow and be unable to roll back. 

Now, as for dry launching, this is something I'm very interested in doing to preserve the life of the trailer. The guys @ ameratrail also mentioned spraying the top 1/2 of the main bunks with liquid silicone from an auto parts store to slick everything up, which I've now done twice and still unable to get her to roll off with compete ease as you see if some of the videos I've seen posted to social media by other Mav owners. 

Does anyone have any pointers for me?? Maybe I didn't apply enough liquid silicone, however I sort of felt i put it on pretty liberally in both applications...

 

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You mentioned in your post you only sprayed the first 1/2 of the main bunks, I sprayed everything.. To some degree I have a problem getting the boat to stay on the trailer when loading.. it's kind of funny to me at this point because I was frustrated with the way my boat launched before and now I do just like Ameri-trail advised you.. Back of the boat floating a little or not, I lean against the boat a little when disconnecting the hook and make it slide down a foot or so then step on the tongue and get in.. 90% of the time it slides off before I even start the motor.. it's kind of a slow controlled launch and if aimed properly you just throw your rope over a pilling and your done..

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Spray the whole bunk as Wayne says and have a bow line in hand the first time you disconnect. It depends on the ramp angle and water level how the boat slides off. I don't have a walk board but I put a strip of grip-tape on top of the left frame rail to walk on if I need to. 

When loading I drive the boat about half-way up, or as far as it goes that particular day, and leave it in gear (idling) until the wife hooks the strap up and takes out the slack then crank her up the rest of the way (this is where the 1800lb 2-speed winch comes in handy). If I don't leave it in gear it will slide back off. I do the same procedure by myself, it just takes an extra trip off and on the boat to hook up the strap and back on to shut down the motor. 

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