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Why Pathfinder, Lid Construction


slyshon

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  • 2 weeks later...

Great video.....however ;  the forward center hatches on my 2400v and 2200xl have both had hinge to lid issues. Not hinge to deck but hinge to lid. There are three screws on each side of hatch door, one is a through bolt with lock nut, the other two are self tapping screws and I have never seen any evidence of a backing plate in either of my two boats in that forward hatch door where the self tapping screws go. I have filled with fiberglass, JB weld, 5200, etc..and added new screws , that is just a bad design. These hatch screws should all three be through bolts and not self tapping. Even though that door is very light and well made, it's just too much mass for those small self tapping screws. 

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

I recently have the same problem with the lid on my front storage area (HPS 23).  I was surprised to see small self tapping screws used to attach the lid to the hinge.  It should and been a bolt thru system specially since it's a standing area on the bow.  I'm surprised it last this long before coming lose and breaking the gelcoat.  I just saw the video on the lids for a 25'HPS that bolts thru....why not the 23'?  I'm in the process of figuring out how to fix it.

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Let us know what you find out....Pathfinder has to know that it is a crappy design for a fishing boat.  Why would such a first class boat manufacturer put self tapping screws into a hatch lid , that people will stand on, and the boat operates in choppy water constantly getting bounced around. 

Ive had two bad expierences with that design in my  2400v and a 2200 XL.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well I contacted my dealer and they had not run into this problem but suggested using a bigger screw or fill the hole with gelcoat and drill a hole that would hold the screw.  Before trying that I decide to call MBG to get a second opinion.  They told me that wood is placed inside the lid doing the construction of the lids where the screws are applied which has worked well.  But, the screws can become lose damaging the gelcoat and widen the hole which is what happen on one of the hinges.  MBG sent me instructions and  photos of a current repair that was done.  You'll need to drill through the same hole at a much higher degree (angle) to give you room to connect the nut.  Use the same size bolt and nut used on the bottom to attach the hinges to the lid.  I used the hole thru the hinge as a guide to drill at the max level with a small drill bit first to check how it entered then use the correct size bit for the bolt.  The bolt will need to be a little long than the single one use with the washer.  Because of the angle you will not be able to use a washer for reinforcement inside the lid.  Be sure to use marine caulking to seal it.  The photo is my results and is the same on what MBG sent me.  I fish a lot on the bow of my boat a lot so I'll let you know how well it works out.

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Nice job !

  I can't imagine that any PF dealer has not heard of these self tapping type screws having problems in hatches. I've fixed mine on both PF's several times by filling the holes with fiberglass cloth shavings and resin....then new screws. This idea of through bolting should be the answer.  

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  • 3 years later...
On 7/10/2016 at 5:33 PM, fishmanjj said:

Great video.....however ;  the forward center hatches on my 2400v and 2200xl have both had hinge to lid issues. Not hinge to deck but hinge to lid. There are three screws on each side of hatch door, one is a through bolt with lock nut, the other two are self tapping screws and I have never seen any evidence of a backing plate in either of my two boats in that forward hatch door where the self tapping screws go. I have filled with fiberglass, JB weld, 5200, etc..and added new screws , that is just a bad design. These hatch screws should all three be through bolts and not self tapping. Even though that door is very light and well made, it's just too much mass for those small self tapping screws. 

Pathfinders  poor choice of hardware is disappointing, my fix replace the hinges ! They should come this way. For  what we pay it’s now tru bolted with 8/32 screws the friction hinge allows you to add screws with out cutting out some of radiusin the lid ,I did find the backing Material when drilling the new holes  back from the edge of the lid , used a # 29 drill and tapped the backing board with a 8/32 tap to help it bite 

 

 

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