Geaux Time Posted May 15, 2016 Report Share Posted May 15, 2016 Looking to upgrade my trolling motor setup. Planning on putting the two 12V TM batteries in the center console along with an on board charger. Leaving my cranking battery in the starboard rear hatch. However, I'm open to ideas on putting the TM batts/charger in the bow hatch. Anyone done this? Also, are you putting a battery tender in the bow hatch for TM wiring? Any ideas or suggestions would be helpful. Trying to utilize the space the best I can and distribute weight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.A. Posted May 17, 2016 Report Share Posted May 17, 2016 How about using 2 batteries for cranking, and 2 batteries for the 24v trolling motor? This is how I have mine set up, with a 3-bank battery charger. 3 batteries total, and you can charge your cranking batteries while running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teej Posted August 10, 2016 Report Share Posted August 10, 2016 I have a 2000 Bayfisher and opted to put the TM batteries in the forward hatch so the cable runs were short and move some weight forward. I had a plastics shop fabricate a false bottom over the batteries to still allow storage in the that forward hatch. That being said, I take my Bayfisher offshore all the time and the short chop seas here in East CFL did that hatch bottom in 2 years later - there is no floor support in that hatch, it's just 1/4" plastic liner with some hard foam behind for space filler and noise dampening. That being said, I really like the weight up front so I glassed in a floor support and had a nice starboard relining of that forward hatch. As for configuration, the battery tender will depend whether you want the TM portable. if you're fixed mounting it, I don't see the need, just hard wire the motor. I've got a portable set-up with mounting plate for the TM and battery tender - works great. As for the battery tender itself, I found the sidewall of the anchor locker worked best for placement and routing of the cable through the existing cut-out in the anchor locker hatch for the anchor rope. When installing the mounting plate or hard mounting the TM itself, if you have a real hard to reach spot for bolting down to the deck - I don't recommend using the rubber expansion bolts - they unknowingly loosen up after a bottom out or two of the TM (who doesn't). To see your $$$ TM almost go over aboard later is a gut wrencher. The marine shops now have a plastic/stainless toggle bolt, like what you'd use to mount a heavy picture to drywall - drill a hole, slide the toggle and plastic sleeve through, insert the bolt to flip the toggle and as you screw down it sandwiches up nice an tight - never a problem since. The other question is do you want to charge while on the water? With these 24v TM and 12v alternators, it means needing a component to automatically take the batteries from 24v series to 12v parallel for charging and back to series when a 24v load is placed on them. I went with the "Troll Bridge" from Yadina and it's worked just fine - they give you directions for 2, 3 and 4 battery set-ups. As for shore charging, the troll bridge will work the same, automatically move your two batteries out of series and into parallel when more that .3 amps of charge is applied - so you don't need an expensive multi-voltage charger. I actually have a cheap single bank charger with a daisy chain of two Blue Seas Battery Combiners that isolate the banks when a load is sensed and allow current to flow through when more than 1amp of charge is sensed. This format allows a one bank charger (though it works really hard - puts out a lot of heat) to charge all my banks as well as my alternator when out on the water. You do need to wire some some fuses for that set-up and I recommend two prong ones over glass tubes (too easily corroded) - the Blue Seas package for the battery combiners shows the diagram for set-up Finally, you need a good quality resettable circuit breaker to protect the TM, the self reseting ones failed me twice on backcountry trips in the Glades. A Blue Seas breaker has done me solid since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drock63 Posted August 11, 2016 Report Share Posted August 11, 2016 I am a brand spanking new hewes owner of a 2008 tailfisher, putting a 24V TM on cause it didn't have one. Looking for help in this exact area, how crucial is to have the batteries centerline?, I would still like to store anchor up front but I think that forces me to put batteries to one side, Any photo shots of bow set up would be greatly appreciated for reference. Anyone see a problem putting Onboard charger in bow as well? (not on the fly charger), it would be nice not having to fish cabling to center console just to have a place for onboard charger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnd Posted August 11, 2016 Report Share Posted August 11, 2016 Have 2 batteries in forward hatch, in front of fuel tank. As said, weight forward & sort run to plug. My chargers are under helm "seat" and charming wires run forward. i build a "shelf" of plastic deck board, put cells in a double battery box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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