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Bilge pump replacement


classic1900v

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Ok, I like the same hole patterns. Makes life easier. Thanks guys.

Buy it from WM with the extended warranty...next time it craps out...you take it in, they hand you a new one..

The key with rule is keeping them clean...i always run dawn liquid with a bit of bleach inthe bilge...then afterwards, run a garden hose in the bilge for 10 min to keep it clean.

dc

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Plus the basket on the new ones keeps the same hole pattern as the old style.

Sure about that? I believe the automatics have a different basket. The baskets on the older, flat top oval ones sure look different than the newer ones.

I had the original 2003 OEM Rulematic 1100 and changed it out to the newer style. I could've never reached to drill new holes so it was a welcomed discovery at the time. It does look totally different but the hole pattern in the bottom is exactly the same.

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Plus the basket on the new ones keeps the same hole pattern as the old style.

Sure about that? I believe the automatics have a different basket. The baskets on the older, flat top oval ones sure look different than the newer ones.

I had the original 2003 OEM Rulematic 1100 and changed it out to the newer style. I could've never reached to drill new holes so it was a welcomed discovery at the time. It does look totally different but the hole pattern in the bottom is exactly the same.

That's exactly why I bought the same pump when my original failed. Even with the same hole pattern, getting all the screws in place is no easy feat. Good luck.

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Good to hear the holes are the same, there would be no way to drill new holes with all the room provided in an old 1900V. Going to pick up new pump either today or tomorrow and install tomorrow night, hopefully. I understand the new pumps have 3 wires, 1-Positive wire for switch, 1-Positive wire direct to battery, and 1-Negative?

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The hot wire may go straight to the battery or positive post if you have one.  I'm guessing your have an early 2000s 1900 and it was probably rigged similarly to my old Bayfisher.  The always-on hot probably goes straight to the battery and that's how you want it.  Less connectors in the way of the power the better for that one in my opinion.  I'd run a ring terminal straight to the battery post to make it easy (assuming your battery is in a stern rigging box). I think i have an inline fuse on mine, but could't tell you the amperage, maybe its in the instructions on the pump.

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That's right, boat is a 2001 model.  When the battery was in the stern rigging box, the bilge pump had a hot wire direct to the battery.  I do seem to recall an inline fuse as well.  I had the battery moved to the center console, and added a 2nd battery with a  1, 2, All, Off battery selector switch.  Apparently the DA who did the job decided that having the hot wire going to the fuse block (or maybe its mounted on the switch studs) was the better option.  I guess he didn't want the battery to drain in case the boat filled with water when no one was around........

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