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DaveC

2000 17' M/A I found one to buy, any thoughts?

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Hi everyone, I am new to this forum so thanks for allowing me to share!

I found a 2000 17 Master Angler that I am planning to buy, Yam 130 2 stroke all in great shape, I just don't know a lot about this specific boat? Any thoughts on what I should be paying most attention too? Thanks!

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Open every hatch take a look and smell, it will tell you alot about how the boat was taken care of. Check the wiring in the console. I have a 99 with zero issues besides what would be expected from a 17 year old boat. 130 is a strong moror, check the compression, find out if they are running ethanol or not, check hours, bring some LU oil and drain the LU and refill, check for water, best $7 u will ever spend. If hydraulic steering push on the motor and see if yiu can get it to move, if it moves more then 1/4" u may have issues with the steering. Not much besides leaking fuel tank, structural issues are a deal breaker, rest can be negotiated in the price.

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X 1000 on the compression check and lower unit drain. Buy some high quality Yamalube LU oil, and new drain and fill gaskets, that way there will be no excuse for the seller not to let you do it and if you buy the boat you can check that off your to do list.

As bulletproof as the mid-range Yamaha 2 strokes were they can still be hurt. No compression check... No deal.

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Hi everyone, I am new to this forum so thanks for allowing me to share!

I found a 2000 17 Master Angler that I am planning to buy, Yam 130 2 stroke all in great shape, I just don't know a lot about this specific boat? Any thoughts on what I should be paying most attention too? Thanks!

besides a general check out on the systems on the boat - you want to pay attention to the wiring and anything added to the boat - GPS,rod holders,etc - pay attention to all this.older boats often have problems with electrical systems - things are added and deleted.owners often use "interesting" ways to wire equipment,these interesting ways usually lead to big problems down the road.

hydraulic steering systems - pay attention to the cylinder seals - look on the boat for the tell tale stains,from hydraulic oil.these can't always be resealed - the piston can be damaged,resulting in a damaged seal,shortly after resealing.these systems will always have a small amount of play.

run that motor to bring it to temp - listen to it,pay attention to how it started...

compression test - you're looking for uniformity - you want to see all cylinders in the same number

specs will not mean anything - uniformity does...

lower unit check ! and pull the prop !

pay attention to the motor - look at it ! look for signs of salt residue,residue around cylinder heads / thermostat housings/exhaust

look for signs of corrosion and rust - if the motor's a mess under the bucket - it hasn't been well take care of...

look for oil containers - see what kind of oil he's been using - cheap,low quality oil says a lot !

for get the whole ethanol / non ethanol fuel thing - seriously,it's time to let all that go...

you want a water test !

you want to run that motor @ full throttle and see what it turns for RPM - doesn't turn full rated RPM - DON'T BUY IT !

water tests tell all - without one,you've no clue how that motor runs and operates. you could run it on the hose,do a compression test,buy it...leave with it,next day you're out running around and discover it overheats,only when the boat is on plane...

last point - if you're asking what to look for,that shows you may not be very experienced

a good direction for you to take may be to find a qualified individual / shop to check out the motor and the systems on the boat for you.try and avoid the know it all neighbor,that often times spells big trouble - I've witnessed that quaite a few times,over the years I've owned/operated my repair shop...

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I personally wouldn't let someone change my lower oil. I do have no issue with them letting the screw out a little and seeing a small sample of the fluid. This will tell you if it has water or is burnt.

I also check compression. Another important thing people don't think about is the prop shaft being straight. I start the motor and put it in gear, while standing behind the boat looking for wobble in the prop

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on the lower unit - I agree - attempting to change someone's lower unit lube is kinda pushing the limit.

any water in the oil will be apparent,when the screw is cracked loose a little...

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Not to derail the thread, but I think it would be a great deal of help if we were to compile these pieces of buying advice and have them permanently posted under Favorite Topics on the forum. That way inexperienced buyers in the future can reference the page for advice/help. Just a thought.

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Again thank you all for the info, I'm not inexperienced but I just don't know as much about this hull. I knew Bob Hewes ( a long time ago) and have always had interest in this style boat. Now my chance to own one and am happy ! Glad that you are all p***ionate about the Mavericks too!!!!

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Great boat, the hull is awesome. It will eat up bay chop like a beast! I own a 99 MA17 with a Yamaha 120 2 stroke. All the info above is great. You can take it to a mechanic to have al that stuff checked, compression, lower unit over all condition. It may cost $75 to $125 ballpark. I agree if I were selling my boat I wouldn't let someone do a lower unit oil change out, just check it by quickly removing lower bolt and verifying no water intrusion making oil turn a little milky colored.

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on the lower unit - I agree - attempting to change someone's lower unit lube is kinda pushing the limit.

any water in the oil will be apparent,when the screw is cracked loose a little...

I agree..but, check the lower unit oil AFTER THE WET TEST...this way if there is some leakage..it will be apparent.

Also, check the screw to see if there are any excess shavings on the screw which is an indicator of we are on the gears....

DC

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That's what I meant, just have some fluid to top it off after you drain a little. Had a seller not let me check the fluid on a 90hp 2 stroke because I didn't have a new drain plug gasket to replace the old one.

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Again thank you all for the info, I'm not inexperienced but I just don't know as much about this hull. I knew Bob Hewes ( a long time ago) and have always had interest in this style boat. Now my chance to own one and am happy ! Glad that you are all p***ionate about the Mavericks too!!!!

if you're asking about the hull itself:

a good general check out would include a look over of the fuel system - my experience,fuel systems are the most overlooked maintenance item !

check the hoses and the fuel lines - pay attention to see if the antisiphon valve has been removed...ALWAYS check for a static ground@the filler cap

other hosing concerns: pay attention to all the hosing - livewell and bilge hosing too.bilge hosing,the cheap plastic corrugated hosing ? that spells big trouble ! cheap low quality hosing on livewell is another potential disaster area

double clamping is what you want to see ! pay specific attention to all the livewell fittings ! look for proper sealing - and make sure they're tight and not cracked.many leaking livewell fittings/systems have sunk many boats !!

you need to pay attention to the wiring - as I've previously stated,wiring is another system that often has problems.little things tell a lot - wing nuts on battery terminals - connectors,cheap home depot unsealed connectors,wiring that appears to be a balled up rat's nest - these are things that spell problems !cheap automotive copper wire,this will be more prone to corrosion - believe it or not,most mfg's do not use a tinned marine grade wire.tinned marine grade wire,a finer stand,and it will appear to be silver,when stripped.

fibergl*** cracking/spider webbing:

large areas of what appears to be a spider web - thee usually signify impact - the underlying fibergl*** has "flexed" and the gel coat shows it - this may or may not be trouble

large cracking areas,around a radius - signifies flexing - not a good thing...cracking around transom...a small ball peen hammer,a "sharp" ear and a good working moisture meter - these will help - composite materials will not rot - they can and will delaminate.tapping around the transom - a sharp distinct noise is heard - a dull thud,that's trouble !

inspecting around any and all thru hulls - inspect for proper installation,sealing and backing blocks

deck - areas where you feel a "give",that's trouble! deck - as in cockpit deck.upper decking,forward casting deck,gunnels - pay attention to these - often times mfg's don't use the best attachment methods - caps can flex and leak water @ the hull to deck joint...

composites require a specific technique,to provide a secure mounting point for fasteners.pay attention to anything mounted anywhere ! specifically any cored areas,deck,cap,etc - these are a point that can become a big problem - look for loose mounting screws - bear in mind,a larger screw won't repair this,nor will attempting to fill the hole with marine tex...

overlooked points are the transducer mounting point on the transom,and the mounting bolts on the motor - both need to be sealed properly - that means 3 m 5200 - not silicone.inexperienced individuals will believe 3m 5200 is a permenant product - that's NOT true...garboard plugs and splashwell drains - these can also be a problem - the bronze tubes,these will crack and corrode away,the plastic ones crack.garboard plugs can become loose,at the mounting point on the transom - screws can and will corrode away...

a "trained" eye will pick up on things just about every one else misses - remember that...there's no substitute for experience....

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Thanks man.... That's what I want to hear, I have heard that the hull works great and you can walk the gunnels without creating a major list. I am really liking the storage and the entry, that's what I gravitated towards. Thanks again!

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Guys.....it is a 16 year old boat...if you want it to be perfect...then go buy a new one. My 2000 model was beat down...think guide boat it's whole life...I got it for peanuts....8000.00 with a motor and trailer. The trailer needed an axle, the boat had stringers busted loose, the motor was a little tired....but if I had wanted a perfect boat I would have p***ed on it. After I fixed everything over about three years....it is now the best money I ever spent on a boat. That IS my .02 cents worth!! :o

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Well, I have made the decision and am buying the MA... I'm excited, needs some attention but I am ready for it and to slide into the bay for some fish fun!!!! Thanks for the input everyone....!

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